efzauner

from a practical point of view, plasma, lcd, rear projection lcd, rear projection dlp....should all last a very very long time. They are giving 50000 hours of plasma life now...that is 25 years at 8 hours a day.. That is 5 times longer than your old CRT! Plasma and crt life time is given as time to half brightness. So pick what you like, dont worry about bulbs burning out etc. AS for SED... Toshiba sold it stake in SED to Cannon I believe (its 50-50 parnter in the venture) because of patent lawsuits and has delayed production even further. if at all. http://www.photonics.com/content/news/2007/January/12/86007.aspx frigin darn patent lawyers from a tiny irrelevant company preventing great technology from comming to the masses! With plasma and LCD prices continuing to fall...Dont hold your breath on SED coming out to market soon....Heck you can get a 40 inch name brand plasma for what, under $1500? If you really want a tv you can still get 32 inch tube tvs for a few hundred dollars....

http://www.globalissues.org/ http://www.fallacyfiles.org/index.html http://www.arabnews.com/ http://www.csicop.org/ http://www.randi.org/ http://www.livescience.com/ http://www.cbc.ca/quirks/ http://www.venganza.org/

Maybe you already considered this, and honest I did not sweat all of the details, but are your maximum front dimensions 12x24? if so have you considered really trying to squeeze in a front mount like this by front mounting the woofers are rear mounting the k700 or vice versa. That way you can reduce the overlap of the flanges.

Wow, thanks Mike. That really covers the basics. So I summarize: Go for vented, determine how big a box I can have, then fit a driver that works best with that box and has the best overall SPL/low end. Use an amp designed for Subs because they have built in HP filters to prevent overexursion below the vent tune frequency, and of course take into account increased R due to heating. So my thought process so far was in line. I was just expecting a much bigger differenc in simulated low end performance between a very expensive JL driver and a cheap one like the Infinity. I was also expecting the same kind of thing with the dayton sub. So bottom line, I need to sweat the details. Thanks a lot for the input. I will let you know what I do. BTW the HT room is not built yet. I am currently using just 3 of the Heresies in LFC and some cheap surrounds in the playroom wich is the same dimesions. Powered by a 40wpc pioneer digial 5.1 amp. And that is too loud already. I think that 2 12 inch subs off a 300wpc amp will be aplenty!

No, can you do that with WinISD? did not think so. WinISD beta does not even give you excursions, which would be important to know in a vented design. Does the heat in the winding simply raise resistance of the coil, dependant on the design and cooling, thus draw less power? But is my though process correct? I was expecting much better low end performance from some of the subs that people rave about on sub DIY sites. The infinity reference series is low end in comparison and seems to perform much better. Why do you suggest all in one place? I thought it woudl be easier to controll room modes with several subs, plus 2 tall cub cabinets would make great stands for the rear Heresy's! The basic question, do you go all out for low end performance with a vented design or do you try to tune it to match the room effect?

Here are the Vented designs

Hi everyone I am trying to decide what drivers to use for a subwoofer for audio and HT. I would like your thoughts on the design process. My HT room is 16x12x8ft. That means a room gain frequency of about 565/16=35 Hz. I plan on using 2 or 4 subs driven by a Pro Audio amp (Mackie, Beringer, Crown etc) so I do not need a single ultra sub in the range of JL12W7 or other really high Xmax sub. I think that several subs working at medium levels in each room corner would be bether than one big sub running at high power with associated power compression and distortion. My mains are LaScalas with Heresy surrounds and center. With the 35Hz room gain +3dB frequency should I design a sub that has a -3dB point also at 35Hz and try to minimize any low frequency hump? Or should I simply try to make a sub that has the lowest -3db point? Attached are 2 WinISD design trial with 4 different subs. The first are sealed designs and the second are vented Designs. 2 of the subs are commonly used for home DIY subs, the other 2 are car audio subs. These are subs in the $100 to $200 range. If I go with a closed design, the Madisound driver gives great low end response, but with a large cabinet. The others have -3dB points in the 35-40Hz range. The Infinity car sub is actually the cheapest of the lot and no slouch! If I go with a vented design, the Madisound seems out of place, seeming to prefer a sealed design. The others all dig quite low with -3dB points at 18-22Hz. I hear about many DIY going for the Dayton Titanic in a sealed cabinet but I dont understand why the performance is so great. I also see that most commercial subs are vented designs and they all seem to go very low. All else being equal (sensitivity, xmax, max power etc) should I go with a sealed Madsound or a vented design with one of the other subs. Should I go for a vented design and pick the sub that gives the highest output given its Xmax, sensitivity and max power?

Thats gonna be great for soccer here...but he is getting old and thats why he has to move here. He is almost over the hill for European soccer. As for being as popular as baseball or football or basketball or hockey. Unfortunately those sports have so much money and sponsoship and TV rights and stadiums that it will be hard for Soccer too ever match them in the US. As for booring...it all depends on how involved you are in the game, how much you know about the players and the team. how good the commentary is etc. There again, US soccer has a long way to go. The game itself I think is much more interesting than say Baseball or football. Certainly much more action. I play on a senior;s league and many of the guys also play hockey. The concensus is that Soccer is much more demanding physically and much rougher on the body with all the fast direction changes, tackles, and no protection.

Ha they is UGLY....His wife told him "either they go or I go!"

First of all, tell your friend he was sold an obsolete system http://www.smarthome.com/972422.html It has been obsolete for a few years now, but Bose or dealers still have some stock. It does not even have a standard Dolby Digital or DTS 5.1 decoder. It uses a Blose proprietary decodes system that does who knows what! Does not have a built in DVD player...it is only a CD player! I used to sell the Lifestyle 8...and was ashamed of it!

Wow his system really sounds awsome! Even thru my hp laptop speakers... I can really hear the presence, transparency of his turntable and speakers. But the tube amps are so sweet. I will listen to the video again in a few weeks after my HP laptop speakers are broken in a bit more.

You should be happy with something like an infinty reference 5x7 or a polk DB 5x7 BTW 6x8 and 5x7 are the same size You should be able to find these at many discount on line resellers as well as ebay . The stok head unit should have enough power for these and you would be surprized what adding better speakers can do and BTW, yes you can get adaptors that change the whole oval dash unit so that you can add an aftermarket radio. here it is http://cgi.ebay.ca/96-99-Ford-Taurus-Mercury-Sable-Car-Radio-Dash-install_W0QQitemZ320062374547QQihZ011QQcategoryZ85806QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem. if you do change the radio, you will need a wiring harness to adapt the aftermarket radio wires to the oem plug in the car.. about $10. look at speakers something like this http://cgi.ebay.ca/PIONEER-6-X-8-2-WAY-260W-SPEAKERS-TSD681R_W0QQitemZ150071230554QQihZ005QQcategoryZ14940QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.ca/NEW-Polk-EX368-Coaxial-6-x8-Pair-EX-Series-NIB_W0QQitemZ180012640374QQihZ008QQcategoryZ14940QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.ca/Polk-Audio-DB570-Coaxial-Speakers-5x7-NEW_W0QQitemZ320062359716QQihZ011QQcategoryZ14940QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.ca/INFINITY-6812cf-CAR-AUDIO-REFERENCE-6X8-5X7-SPEAKERS_W0QQitemZ140054682125QQihZ004QQcategoryZ14940QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem any of the above would be fine. anything bigger ( as in higher end speaker with a bigger magnet) and you may have trouble installing them.

I was of age during the late 70s but consider myself a disco boy. The sad thing is that most of what made disco suck was the songs played on top 10 am radio. The real good stuff was mostly underground and played in the new york and european discos and hardly ever on mainstream radio. I managed to download lots of disco from napster a few years back. It is very hard to find. I have XM radio and while I like disco, I never listen to the disco channel "chrome" because it is all crap. Funny thing is, I listen to dance and house being played today and I hear the old disco beats. Old stuff always comes around.. artists such as Cerrone, Giorgio Morauder, Alex Costandinos, Salsoul Orchestra hardly ever made it on radio, but where considered the best. Yet, when someone is bashing disco they think of stuff like the Beegees (squeeze my balls and I can sing like them too), Alicia Bridges and other top 10 am hit singles. Yuck.

never mind.

Snake oil companies like this one are relying on your "sub rudimentry" understanding of cable design in order to overwealm you with believable bullshit about the different sound of copper or silver. Skin effect is not an issue at audio frequencies. This has been proven over and over in many posts and links. Visit www.Audioholics.com for good technical discussions on cabling. I see no benefit from the twin silver/copper core. And the statement about the ground carying no signal is nonsense. The ground is always the return path in single ended systems. You have to move to balanced connections such as 600 ohms in order for the ground not to carry signal. YOu can have a second ground shield connected only on one end for extra noise protection, but one ground shield must always be connected at both ends. They may be well built cables and sound fine, just like any other good quality cable, but not for the snakeoil reasons they give you.

The answer to your basic question why are the big studios waiting before introducing the big moovies is bsically one of money.. It cost money to author and re do the movies for HD, the original producers/directors etc have control over it as well. Why in hell would the big studios spend time and money to convert to HD, then spend the marketing money to launch and distribute so early when the adoption rate of HD players is so low..They will wait until HD dvd player adoption is large enought so that they can sell millions and millions of copies. Remember how long it took for Geroge Lucas to come out with DVD versions of Star wars? DVDs where introduced in 1997 and the star wars DVD set where available in 2004 I think. So a full 7 years! We will have to keep waiting.

It is also a problem with electronics, and they dont remove serial numbers. Manufactureres dont have the time or energy to do this, especially in the US with the thousands of dealers. In Canada unfortunately it is easier to control and as such we dont get many good deals. Stuck with the Futureshop and Best Buy family . But forget about getting a discount on the new Denon 3930 or other higher end gear. The discounts are really the manufactuerers own fault because they set quotas to meet and have volume buy discounts. If a small shop wants to be competitive they have to buy the quantity to get the low price...then they pass overstock to the discounters. Anyway.. have a good ThanksGiving weekend all my friends south of the border

zero mes in the US and I gather I am the only one in Canada too. ! wow!

which part of the circuit are you talking about? the part inside the source or outside the source? What if part of the circuit is a semiconductor and current is transported by holes and not electrons?

Thanks for the responses. The Spice simulations are nice but what if you have slighlty different T/S parameters? Does your model allow for back emf caused by a mechanical excitation of one woofer by another? (BTW where did you get an equivalent eletrical model of the T/S paramters.. i tried finding it a while ago and gave up I would like to simulate that too! ) What I am trying to understand is this: to same model woofers, but with slightly different TS parameters because if slightly different mass, compliance winding etc. Just off by a few percent due to manufacturing tolerances of the winding, paper cone, rubber surround etc. What if a transient drum beat excites a 29hz resonance in one woofer and 31Hz resonance in the other. Will the emf caused by one coil resonating at 29 hz cause the other woofer's coil also to move at 29hz as well as its own resonance of 31 hz causing intermodulation. I am trying to find a problem that we normally overlook that made JL audio recommend not to put them in series. I did email JL and hope to get a response. I may be searching for something that does not exist, but the guys on the car audio forum are very stubborn and do not have the same level of background, tools, and experience as here, and tend to stick with their own ideas regardless of the fact because they do not have much technical education or knowledge. Many struggle with ohms law...

Speakerfritz Yes we all know that 8+8 =16. That was not the queston. The question was if there were any other factors, such as does one VC's back emf adversely affect the other's movement etc. It is mainly with woofers or subwoofers.

the Large Advents where my first speakers. I think I got them in 79. Paid $400 for them that was alot of money on a student's summer job salary. With Inflation that is about $1000 in today's dollars. Still have em running in the exercise room, together with a pair of smaller Advents(same drivers, smaller box) They really have great bass to pump iron with!

Guys There is a debate going on in some of the Car Audio forums about putting subwoofers in series. The issue is putting same model subs in series either in same box or different identical boxes. Some manufacturers say never to put subs in series, although it is OK to put Double Voice Coils in series on the same sub. The reason give is that slight differences in the subs cause the back emf of one to modulat the other sub. I have been in audio hobby for 30 years and have never heard of this. I have searched for some technical based research or credible source to back this claim up and have not found anything. I see many high end speakers with 4 woofers that I presume are simply 8 ohm speakers in series/parallel config. I have not read any reviews on speakers where a manufacturer claims that putting woofers in series is bad. Do any of you know anything about this subject? Thanks..

Why thank you... it will be a good weekend.. until we visit my inlaws on monday..

an engineer, physicist and mathematician are sharing a hotel room.. all of a sudden a fire starts in the garbage pail... the engineer gets up fast, gets the fire extinguisher and empties most of it, putting out the fire....everyone is happy and goes back to sleep.. A while later.. the fire start again. This time the physicist gets up.. studies the fire... calculates the burn rate.. gets the extiquisher and aims a short calculated burst with great accuracy.. putting out the fire... All go back to sleep.. Of course not 10 minutes later the fire starts again... This time the Mathematician pokes his head from under the pillow...sees the fire... then sees the extinguisher...whispers... "There is a solution" and goes back to sleep..