Deang

Great thread. To be honest -- I think with good front end tube gear, it's very difficult to make anything sound bad. Even humble tube gear takes off the digital edge.

Fabulous stuff Leo -- thanks.

Since the P6D is no longer available -- maybe someone might find something like this interesting? This amp uses the TDA7294. It is a monoblock design coming in just below $300. So, $600 for a pair. 100 watts of rip snorting IC.

A Mullard of course.

Thank you Mark.

I need 13 uF to rebuild an Original Advent crossover for a friend. I would like to use film and foil -- but no 13uF available. I need to parallel some caps. What is the best way to do this? 7 and 6, or use a lower value with a much higher one. Does it matter? Is it better just to use a 13uF in a metallized polypropylene instead of paralleling some film and foils?

I like a good pissing contest every now and then. Now tell the truth Ryan -- why are you here? You don't own Klipsch speakers, and as I understand it -- you don't even like them. It really does seem like you just hang out to get Craig's blood pressure up, which as everyone knows is MY job.

Here you go: Copy and paste into your browser address bar. http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=33632&forumID=68&catID=19&search=1&searchstring=&sessionID={C5F723CA-628A-4F93-9477-1ABD1E9DF950} http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=32711&forumID=68&catID=19&search=1&searchstring=&sessionID={C5F723CA-628A-4F93-9477-1ABD1E9DF950}

The lower gain setting should have slightly less distortion with your horns -- but use your ears. I would personally use the lower setting so you can get volume knob around some. Use search and look for "preamps" and "gain" on 2 channel under my username. There have been numerous threads on this.

Options are almost endless. I can't make a solid state recommendation though many folks like MacIntosh with Klipsch. You definitely want some tubes in the chain. Tube preamp for sure if you go with solid state amp. Almost anything by Cary using 12AU7's or 6SN7's ($750 - $1000). A bit more affordable would be the AES AE-3 (solid state rectified, used for $350) or AE-3 DJH (tube rectified, $800 used). Newcomers Korato and Mapletree Audio have some interesting products as well -- but no one here has any experience with them. I think Mapletree deserves a shot. You could lose a chromosome or two trying to make an amp decision. Don't. Get the preamp right, and it's hard to screw the amp choice up. You mind as well get it over with and figure $2000 for a nice set of monoblocks and preamp. You would be finished -- and wouldn't have to find yourself in the position of being on all fours -- crawling around in upgrade hell -- looking for the next best thing. Everyone has their preferences -- and after being around the block with this stuff, I think you need between 20 and 40 tube watts for unrestricted dynamics at 'live' listening levels. If you never listen loud -- you can try SET. I have personally settled into the EL-34 ultra-linear configuration -- but I listen to Rock around 95 db. You should spend some time here learning a bit before you jump. Use the search utility and read as much as possible, come back with more questions -- then make a decision. Again, don't skimp on the preamp. That being said, I do feel that Mike Sanders of Quicksilver Audio has just about cornered the market on amps using simple circuits that are tried and true reliable, rich in texture without giving up much detail, expansive soundstages, and enough power to get the pant legs flapping. The old standby at the forum here however is the Scott 299a II or 299B integrated. If you have to settle -- this is where you want to be. $500 to $700 refurbished by Craig of NosValves. This sound is a stones throw away from the very best.

http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/biwiring.htm

Great shots Craig, and as usual -- awesome job. I had no idea those transformers were that big. Sitting on the bench like that you get some scale. Those things are freaking huge. Yah -- me's a bonehead. I like lot's of Class A, bandwidth, and headroom galore. Of course, like we talk on the phone -- those Scalas dust the RF-7's in sensitivity, and that squawker probably benefits from a little warming up. Since I don't have real horns -- my midrange needs all the help it can get. I love the blue caps -- beautiful. Too bad they have to be stuffed underneath the chassis. Of course, I noticed you got a couple plugged into the Scott too. I knew you would cave into the blue cap syndrome sooner or later. I also noticed the nice blue carpet on your test bench -- if you ever need more, I got a whole house full of it.

I posted extensively on the problem with the Cornwall at 85 db and above. It's caused a combination of all the things mentioned in this thread. No loud Rock with this speaker unless you caulk the lenses, Deflex the cabinet, and add a brace.

We buy and sell to each other constantly here. It's not a problem --

How strange that I forgot about PK. I guess he's still so alive in my mind that my brain rebels against it.

What a loss. One of three of my first audio heros. Usually comes in threes -- Kloss, Hafler, ... ?

" All I know is that EVERYONE who has listened to an A/B comparison in my system has been astonished by how much better records sound than CDs...My CD player retails for $4500 and my vinyl rig set me back about $700 (but might cost double or triple that to put together today)." Dag gone it Allan -- you can't say stuff like that around me -- you know what a sucker I am.

They are the original Philips tweeters Dahlquist used -- they are both stamped "4 ohms" on the back of the magnets. I wonder if one might be a later model replacement. The only thing I can think of that would cause it is the voice coil winding. The new one either has more/tighter turns -- or heavier gauge wire. Beats me.

uh yeah -- that's the stuff I remember. snap crackle pop snap crackle pop yeesh

Sure it can -- just kick the turntable.

Any ideas what I have two tweeters. They both pass the continuity check, and make sound when tested by hooking in place of my PC speakers. The problem is that when I set my multimeter to check the DC resistance -- one comes in at 1.8 ohms, and the other is 3.4 ohms. The tweeters are from the DQ-10's I'm restoring. The tweeters are identical. Thoughts?

Wow, almost 8 straight hours of tunes -- no wonder you hit the Bookers. Man, you put on a concert and didn't even invite anyone!

I have two tweeters. They both pass the continuity check, and make sound when tested by hooking in place of my PC speakers. The problem is that when I set my multimeter to check the DC resistance -- one comes in at 1.8 ohms, and the other is 3.4 ohms. The tweeters are from the DQ-10's I'm restoring. The tweeters are identical. Any ideas what would cause this?

I don't have any experience with the AES phono preamp -- I do like the sound of the AE-3 though. One nice thing Mapletree has going for it is it's owner and designer. I appreciated the way lloyd answered my questions. Straightforward and honest. I definitely sense he is someone that would stand behind his product in case you ran into any problems. I also sense he is someone that has been around the block once or twice with this stuff -- and certainly knows what he's doing. I believe Lloyd is really Mdeneen I wonder what Mark would think about it. I think the preamp is interesting -- if I had money coming in like I used to -- I would probably give it a try.