Deang

Hey John, everything's "basic" to you! Maybe you should change your avatar - you seem a little *****y today:) 101 - man, 100 watts. It must be class A/B push-pull. Did you base your amp on another amp's design -- or is it like "scratch" scratch?

Welcome to the board Tim. Whatcha using to push all those metal drivers?

Welcome back! Pretty kewl. Did you build it from scratch or is it a kit? What's the tube complement? Do you have a preamp for it? Nice job.

Works for me.

That was my thinking as well, which is why I asked him how old the Mullards were. I was thinking it might be easier for him to get a match if they towards the end of their life. Kelly is right about the Svetlanas. I run their KT-88's, and I'm very happy with the sound. Seems several on this forum bear striking resemblances to each other:)

I'm interested in it, and wouldn't mind giving it a whirl on my Marantz DV7010, which will be the source machine for my second system. I'm outta money -- so it's going to have to be a birthday present from my wife in Janurary. I really like the sound of the 9000es mated with the triodes on my RF7's. I'll be leaving well enough alone here.

Kelly, What do you think accounts for me liking the sound of the 9000es over the CD-1? The 9000 sounded much smoother and dynamic when compared to the CD-1. The CD-1 had all the things you say make a good player (with the exception of the transport), yet it fell short. Must have been that 6922:)

I'm betting the new parts are contributing more to the "harshness" more than any tube could do. JJ/Tesla has a good reputation. You should wait it out. How many hours on the Teslas? Tubes also need about a 100 hours to sound their best. I we are talking power tubes here in a push-pull amp, you probably don't want to mix up the tubes. How old are the 3 Mullards?

My opinion is that the newer machine will sound better, as the newer DACs are superior to the older ones. My new Sony 9000es sounded much better than my previous $1800 Anthem CD-1 player -- and there was less than 5 years between them. If you are prepared to spend $2K -- why not opt for the Rega Jupiter? Certainly some other options out there in that price range. Remember "diminishing returns" -- I doubt a $2K player will sound $1000 better, but that's me.

This will take some getting used to. To early to tell if it's really an improvement or not. Like most things, it's a matter of perspective.

If that Scott is a tubey, the resident Scott repairman is NOS444. You can find Craig at the 2-channel Forum. Just forget about the little dent, it ain't worth getting stressed over. ------------------ Deanf>s> High Fidelity f>s>c>

This is certainly a revelation. Thanks for the tip. Did you see my post yesterday where I snagged that stock AE-3 and two Red-bases' off of AudiogoN almost as soon as they hit the site? Me was happy. ------------------ Deanf>s> High Fidelity f>s>c> This message has been edited by deang on 09-26-2002 at 03:54 PM

Doesn't anyone "go" to the movies anymore? It's a hell of lot cheaper, and if you go during the day - like take a long lunch - there is barely a soul there. When I went to see "Panic Room" when it came out -- I had the whole place to myself. ------------------ Deanf>s> High Fidelity f>s>c>

Is "Planet Zontar" the same place as "Heaven". LOL ------------------ Deanf>s> High Fidelity f>s>c>

Well, the Monster HT1000 is basically a glorified power strip. Bad? Yeah, gee -- I hope EL-84's go in there, because that's what I'm running. ------------------ Deanf>s> High Fidelity f>s>c> This message has been edited by deang on 09-26-2002 at 03:38 PM

Uh, probably not "hype" at all. That much power pushing a driver(s) that can handle it, in an enclosed space -- would without question cause a cerebral hemorrhage with associated neurological damage and probably a stroke. A massive pressure wave can easily stop the heart. Better stick with little 'ole tube amps ------------------ Deanf>s> High Fidelity f>s>c>

I think everyone skipped town figuring the site would be down today. ------------------ Deanf>s> High Fidelity f>s>c> This message has been edited by deang on 09-26-2002 at 03:23 PM

Most things like that don't sound as good as they look. I bet those sound as good as they look.

Kewl. But now meez monies is all gone. This message has been edited by deang on 09-26-2002 at 02:51 PM

Did you know Peter Townsend is deaf? I'm surprised they were even amplified. Through the middle 80's and all of the 90's -- anything he did was "unplugged". I just saw Peter Frampton a couple of months ago. Talk about a voice that has stood the test of time. Anything worth doing he did. Absolutely fantastic. I can't say the same about Kansas. Steve Walsh sounded awful. Of course, no Kerry Livgren -- but this new guy they had was tremendous. A very quiet, laid back type. Very big as well, with a path on one eye. I think he must have used a 1/2 dozen guitars. He would just stand back with the drummer until it was time to do his thing, then he'd step up and let it rip. This message has been edited by deang on 09-26-2002 at 02:45 PM

I've been trying to figure out my next upgrade. Thanks!

RMS means "Root Mean Squared" -- honest. It is the same as "continuous, both channels driven". So, 250 watts RMS is the same as 250 watts continuous per channel. Speakers are normally damaged by amps that are low in power. Take the RF7's for example. If you run them with a 100 watt per channel amp, and you push the amp past its rated output (usually about 12:30 o'clock position on a typical volume control) -- you go into "clipping", which is basically distortion, which heats the voice coils in the speaker very quickly -- then "poof/fizzle". If you were to use a 300 watt power amp, the power is very clean and never distorts. A speaker rated at 250 wpc can take this kind of power for maybe a song or two, and then "poof/fizzle". Pure clipping from a low powered amp can take a driver out in seconds. Use the ratings as a guide. With an efficient speaker like the RF7, 250 watts would destroy your hearing. I run mine with 35 tube watts, which is about like 60 solid state watts -- and it gets pretty damn loud. The best rule is this: Get an amp you like and can afford -- and LISTEN to what the speaker is telling you when you are driving it. If it begins to sound "strained", "pinched", or "etched" -- it is either the speaker, or your ears -- saying ENOUGH! This message has been edited by deang on 09-26-2002 at 03:43 PM

Well said

O.K. Enoughs enough. 'ole Prod is making an attempt to chill, so I see no reason to push all his buttons anymore. When you get right down to it, and looking at all the threads -- he's no worse or better than some of the rest of y'all. Seems to me he fits right in around here.

Ready to take some advice from a 2-channel only guy Do you have walls on either side of the couch that's against the back wall? If so, I would hang them ABOVE my head on each side, facing in torwards the couch, and I would put the rear channel above my head on the back wall. I see these speakers as providing mostly directional and ambiant cues. The idea is to create a diffuse soundfield. Setting them low and pointing them right at you kind of defeats the purpose of the effect that is trying to be achieved. Your setup won't be the ideal -- but it will certainly be closer to the ideal. BTW -- you absolutely should be buying the RS7's for the rear channels. All the speakers utilized in a HT environment should have similiar, if not identical sonic signatures. Mounting a RC7 on the rear wall may not be practical. You could put it on a shelf, if you can use the studs -- because it is rather heavy. However, you might do better with a single RB5 in your situation. This message has been edited by deang on 09-25-2002 at 04:59 PM