CECAA850

A myth. When you use a Y connector and both inputs, the amp sums the inputs. It's the same thing as sending a signal that's twice as strong. The amp does not become magicaly more powerfull. You can do the same thing by either turning the gain up on the sub or increasing the level of the sub output from your receiver.

Great looking work. Any reason you chose that build over the F20 I linked you to at the avsforum? The F20 was a cheaper/simpler/lower tuned build.

OK michael, let's see a pic of you and the sub[] Where's theear when you need him?

I think he was looking for Klipsch forum members[]

NICE!![Y]

Good for you! Sounds like things are going your way, congrats.

If you want to keep the cats away from the speakers, try swapping your factory woofers out with these aftermarket ones.

Just send the prize to me Amy, I'm off to buy some BOSE!!!

Have you double checked the wiring to be sure it's not out of phase?

My QSC's each have 1 blue power light on front. You can layer the Sharpie over the glass "eye" and darken to taste.

It's hard get to the forum now. If I were a newb, I wouldn't think there was one.

That's what black Sharpies are for[].

I think that the key in the above statement is what the decoder MAY do. I doubt that there is a standardized way that every decoder operates. I know how mine operates but different manufacturers may handle the LFE channel differently. I'd be curious as to how many pre-pros/receivers work in the above fashion. I doubt that there's many but I could certainly be wrong.

Set your speakers to small in the bass management section of your receiver. Set your crossover 1 octave above the lowest flat spec of your speaker. In other words, if your speaker is flat to 30 Hz, set the crossover to 60 Hz. The theory is that your crossover is not a brick wall. It will still send frequencies below the crossover point to the speakers, albeit at a reduced volume. Your speakers will always be operating in their usable, accurate range this way. Tweek it to taste from there.

If you have different crossover settings for different speakers in the same system, everything below the crossover point for EACH speaker is sent to the sub along with the entire LFE channel. For example, you could send all frequencies below 60 Hz from your mains, everything below 70 Hz from your center and everything below 80 Hz from your side channels.

Im guessing Zucchini.

I've got something similar (Generac). They're 20 KW on LP but only 18 KW on natural gas like yours. Luckily we have a gas stove and water heater.

Okay, on MY pre-pro (your receiver or pre-pro may be different!) LFE is only redirected to the speakers if the sub is set to "no". If the sub is set to "yes" all LFE and everything below the crossover point of the speakers is sent to the sub. The subwoofer output has a selectable low pass filter so you can remove whatever frequencies are too high for your sub to reproduce. Basically if the pre-pro knows you have a sub, it will never send any frequencies of the LFE channel to the other 7 speakers. YMMV.

The more I search, the more I think it is avr/pre-pro dependant. The best thing to do would be to consult your individual manufacturer. I'm going to see what my D2 does as I was under the impression my above statement was correct.

I'd need to do some research, but I was under the impression that the LFE channel was discreet, like LF, C, RF, etc and was channeled to the sub out jack only. It also may be pre-pro or avr dependant. I'll try to do some digging today.

Apologies.....did I miss something here? Anyway, I did attempt to change my subject header in an attempt to "keep the peace", and haven't been here much lately, so if I stepped into something blatently obvious to everyone else I didn't mean to antagonize. It's more of a self perceived non-desire to give Bill Gates any more money (which I swore I would never do), but giving in to that is better than no comp. At any rate, no offense intended None taken. It was my attempt at humor. I had a thread locked that pertained to shotguns.

Please refrain from any more "bullet" talk................................................................................

If for some reason you look for a used part, bear in mind that the RC-7 uses the same woofer (K-1038-SB).

From SVS: Keep the subs co-located, or within 4 to 5 feet (say the 1/3 and 2/3 wall points on the front stage). Set the Phase Control to “0” on both subs to start. Also, set the AV receiver’s subwoofer channel level to “+1db” for now. Play the AVR or Avia test tones, and with one sub at a time playing, adjust gain on each until achieving normal calibration level. Finally, fire-up both subs together. The combined result should be 6dB higher than one individual sub. If yes? Lower the subwoofer channel level to “ - 5dB” and you’re done! If the subs are more than 4 or 5 feet apart, or you aren’t getting the full 6 dB increase in measured output, then adjust the phase on one sub until you approach that 6dB of gain.

When you set your receiver to say 80 Hz, it sends everything above 80 Hz to your speakers (or pre-outs if you have seperate amps). Everything below 80 Hz PLUS the discreet LFE (.1) channel is sent to the sub via the receivers "sub out" jack. Most sub amps have a built in "low pass" filter. It allows everything BELOW the set point to be amplified and sent to the sub driver. The low pass filter is utilized when you send a full audio signal to the sub amp and want to remove the higher frequencies that the sub can't reproduce. If you use a receiver's crossover, there is no need to use the subwoofers filter as the higher frequencies have already been removed by the crossover in the receiver. Either disable the crossover or turn it to it's highest (Hz) setting on the sub amp .