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On that point we are in total agreement. Sending the item and then losing funds down the road is the real concern. If it is just an honest mistake, I want the deal done and behind me. I in no way want to screw the guy if he is legit. Everything I read from the reverse perspective of trying to get back a transaction after you send it, more or less says you are SOL.

That would be the worst possible things I could do. Because Zelle payments are like leaving cash on a table and walking away. If by chance this is a sophisticated scam and not an honest mistake on the buyers end, I'd be sending the perpetrator my money with zero recourse. As I said in the OP we have a "reasonable" comfort level. But from my perspective there is no way I'd send him money via Zelle. I'd use Zelle for paying the kid that cut my lawn after he did it because you can't un-cut my lawn. I'd never use it to pay for stuff sold online to a guy I never met. Split a check with a person you had dinner with - yes. Pay for a car before it was in my driveway and title signed over, no way!

Yet you felt compelled to offer $0.02 anyway. Love it, this is just like the old Klipsch Forums circa 2006. Thanks for taking the time. Didn't one of the Ts in ATT stand for telegraph? Is anyone here younger than I am....I'm almost 60. Yes, I'm being a jerk. Seriously, thanks for trying. I was pretty sure I'd get several posts like this. Its a rather unique set of circumstances and not a wealthy prince that needs my help.

Hey all, I'll cut to the chase not BS. I'm looking for somebody that knows more than I do. I think I am dealing with a poor dumb b@st@rd, but if not he is the sharpest scammer ever. Working out a deal, and the guy is supposed to send me a PayPal friends and family payment. We have a reasonable comfort level and I'm on the receiving end so all good I figure. He sends me a $1 PPal payment and I think all is good. He is just being safe and making sure my info is correct. I say send the rest and I'll ship in the morning. I go to bed last night. I get up, no paypal payment. I send him a WTF, message saying don't jerk me around. He says he will send ASAP, got busy last night, etc. I end up getting a Zelle payment in full....but I never gave him my Zelle info. I say what's is up, he says he was having problems with PayPal. If you know anything about Zelle once it is gone its from you account is gone. You should only pay people you know well and trust like @Thaddeus Smith or @richieb, right guys? I look up a bunch of info online about Zelle specifically (not PayPal or Venmo that offer protection) and I call my bank. They more or less tell me the money is mine. Zelle customer support is non-existent. Still I'm skeptical. I don't see a way to "return", refuse, cancel a Zelle payment. Bank also tells me no way to cancel it back to the sender....like PayPal does. If I were to send him a payment back it would literally be like my putting cash on the table and walking away. I don't think that is an option. I truly think they guy is just a bit confused and dull (older gentleman based on what I have gathered) and I don't want to not send the item if this is all just a silly mistake on his part. But I did ask for PayPal and he agreed and he did the $1 right the first day. My spidey senses are up and I'm not feeling the love. Over zealous on my part or one hell of a long play for the scammer?

Tie between: 1993 And 1992 Oh man, somebody stop me! Pasting all these video links I'm starting to feel like Randy

Sold, you all, 'Yall, you guys missed out on a awesome DAC.

Bump for price drop....$4,500.

...and an even better book

It is the Plus, all handpicked caps/resistors, IIRC. 100% original, no mods.

Tons of info available online about this wonderful DAC. Rave reviews and all that stuff just look around if you need to. Right now it is in my equipment rack. I'll take it out if you need more pix, but it went from the shipping box to where it sits now. Local pickup for now in the Baltimore, MD area. its a beast at over 40 pounds. Willing to drive a bit to meet you depending how easy you make the transaction. If you are truly serious you are welcome to demo it in my space. I have all the original boxes/packing/paperwork PM with any questions you might have. Anything you see in the pictures are glare, dust or fingerprints. My room has no windows and is painted black so hard to photograph. Took some with and without the lights on. It has a FPGA processor so easy to keep it updated. It is my understanding that nothing has changed except the firmware in the past several years. From memory this is a 2021 or 2022, but same model you can buy today for over $7K. $4,500 cash on pickup or Zelle or Venmo or PP Friends and Family. If you really must have it shipped we can work something out. Send me a label, arrange for shipping, have a friend pick it up. I'll drop it off at your preferred shipper but the details are on you. Thanks for looking!

Same here. If I took all my audio purchases in the last 20 years....speakers, amps, tubes, record cleaners DACs, heck anything but music. Roon is the single best purchase at any cost. I'm happy with Plex to manage my local video library be it purchased or phone video. Can't comment on VLC. I'm a music streamer. All my 100,000+ song library of Standard Rez and High Rez music is local. Room is key to that. I spend a good bit of time over at the Roon Forums ( Since Randal/Double-Aught-1 took root here 😉 ) and I get the feeling that many like Roon for streaming as well.

Fellow Klipsch member has an F8 up for sale. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/228872-first-watt-f8/

Here ya go @Marvel https://news.lettersofnote.com/p/nirvana

Too soon 😞

Title says sold

Congrats on the new Jubes! I'm also using Hypex mono blocks for the low end and First Watt J2 for the top for my active crossover system. Different speakers for sure, but I owned Khons for many, many years. Also several tube amps and preamps have come and gone. I don't see the Hypex/J2 combo going anywhere anytime soon. Just some food for thought on the J2/Hypex combo that seems to work for more than one member here. Enjoy the road finding your perfect match....er, matches. Side note, I've not been keep up on the new Jubilee threads. Does the active crossover that comes with them allow for you to play with the crossover points, slopes, delay, etc. or is it a preprogrammed box from the factory. Any idea who makes it? The speakers look fantastic and I'm sure sound out of this world. I'd expect nothing less from the electronics.

That sounds to me like your laptop has USB-C, correct? I only see USB-C on the DAC. So I would be shocked if a C to C cable did not work. Like @Marvel says it will need power. Absent that, if any port on your laptop can charge your phone, use that one. Try not to use a USB Hub between laptop and DAV, if you can avoid it. I've had on and off problems with CD-players for ripping CDs, Monitors, Microphones, etc. with a chain of USB devices that went Laptop>>cable>>USB Hub>>cable>>Device. I also seem to remember (scary) a previous Dell Laptop that had USB-C/Thunderbolt dock port and 1 USB-A port that was powered and two USB-A ports that were not powered. So try your cell phone on all ports of your laptop and see if any/all charge while you wait for the DAC to show up. If you really want to cover all of your bases pick these up....super handy once you have them. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BJ8YQ2LM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

This I really don't know. I could probably read up on that particular DAC but I'm pretty lazy. Every time I've done it it has been A (2.0/1.0 or 3.0 below) on the computer's end and B (USB 2.0 Type-B) on the DAC's. But I would not be surprised to learn of a C to B since C is becoming more and more prominent. Does your DAC only have "B" or does it have "C"? If C then I'd expect they have that (c to c) nut cracked. Post a link to your DAC or a picture of the back's connections plainly in view.

Not the sound your hear, but the data to be converted by the external DAC, bypassing the computer's DAC. Might sound like I'm splitting hairs but it is a huge difference. Not anything, in any form, that your brain can make sense of. I didn't read the entire thread so apologies if this has already been said....but it does not quite sound to me like you ( @Jeff Matthews) quite get this. Your computer has a DAC in it. That is why your computer speakers, headphones form headphone jack, etc. can make Analog sound. The DAC has C=converted the D=Digital bits (00110101011010101s) to A=Analog .The stuff you, as a human can hear. When you connect your computer via USB to your External DAC, you bypass the computer's DAC (possibly less quality, debatable) and some software (a driver) on the computer let's your computer and External DAC talk to each other. Now the computer can send it's digital bits to the external DAC for conversion to Analog for your ears to hear and your brain interpret. In case it is not painfully obvious yet you should have alight bulb showing above your head and drawing the conclusion, counselor, that a "Streamer" or "Bridge" is nothing more than a computer that can take digital bits from somewhere - Internet, computer, Network Attached Storage (NAS) and give it to your DAC for conversion. The DAC may have an amp built in or you may connect it like any other piece of gear as a source. Think in CD player terms. Back in the 80s/90s. You had: A CD with data, no music, just 1s and zeros much like your computer files or internet stuff form Qobuz. To get different data you had to change the CD in the player The CD player also had a way to get the data from the CD to the DAC. The laser and associated software This is kind of like the streamer/bridge, not really but close enough The CD player's DAC did what they always do Convert Digital to Analog <<<<< end of trying to help Jeff, time for some pot stirring and general audiophile (I hate that term) anarchy >>>>>>> Therefore, logically, nothing can make the data sound "differently" in the digital domain. The data is simply data. As long as the data gets there correctly and in time (solved probably 40 years ago) you don't need a $10,000 dollar USB cable, or audio quality switches in your network or fancy linear power supply for your computer/streamer supplying those bits to the DAC. But the industry as a whole would love you to think so. A turntable is a system comprised of many parts, not just a single thing called a record player. So is a tape deck (rollers, heads, motors). While a record is playing, jumping up and down on a poorly isolated floor, a noisy motor, bad groundings, the sensitivity of the stylus and pick up, dust, pressing quality of the vinyl, plus many other things can all influence the sound the turntable produces. Everything is in the analogue domain. The so called external DAC. It is not one thing either, it is really a collection of parts making up a system. Some in the digital domain and some in the analogue domain. It is the implementation of the DAC chip and everything that happens after the digital is converted to Analog that you can hear. The Wi-Fi/wire getting the data to your DACs analog side matters 0 (zero) not 1 (one) bit - pun intended. But people that don't know each other will debate that endlessly on the Internet because they Believe it does and they have spent the money and want it to be true. Expectation biases and confirmation biases are very powerful and very real. As I get older I find it almost as interesting and entertaining as music and the Hi-Fi hobby.

Channeling your inner J Mascis?

I'm not a fan of numerous monthly reoccurring fees. As much as I get dragged into the digital age I still like own it. Plus when the Internet is down/out you can still listen to music. Give Roon a look. Many over there love Qobuz. Glad you found a working solution.

@Jeff Matthews I'm in the process of organizing/downsizing/de-cluttering my digital accumulation of multiple backup drives and my main storage system. PM me if you might be interested in some of my "stuff". If you are looking to convert your CDs or Vinyl to something to store on site (your home) and have access them in a meaningful way this would be a way to jump start that process. I've spent at least 2 decades perfecting my process.

Which one? CBS, Mo-Fi, other? That album is my pet project. I've probably had 25 version of it. Currently probably 10+. Single Wally, Double Wally, Friday Music, Gold Foil promos, blue Epic re-release. Every time I see one in a used record shop if it has a orange CBS label and no barcode I buy it. Side one is pretty iconic in my book. Out of all the high dollar ones I've tried I liked the Mo-Fi the least. Kinda noisy. Love the blue on your P3, nice!