capo72

Go to "Get it now", then Music & Tones, then "Get New Ringtones", then "get new app". It's called V CAST Song ID. It was a free app for me and it works suprisingly well. I have had it well over a year and have discovered a couple of new artists I really enjoy by using it. Hope you find it, Good Luck! Jeremy

I would turn the Forte 1 on its side before I would replace it. Jeremy

I don't have an iphone, but I have had a similar app, through Verizon, on my LG phone for about a 1 1/2 years. It comes in very handy sometimes. Jeremy

capo is short for caporegime or "Captain" in Itailian. Usually associated with a high ranking official in the Mafia (which does not exist.) The nickname was given to me by some friends who claim I have the need to be in charge of the situation at all times. 72 is for my birth year. Jeremy

This auction just went up. http://cgi.ebay.com/Zu-DL-103-Zu-Audio-Modified-Denon-DL-103-Grade-1_W0QQitemZ110315105860QQcmdZViewItemQQptZTurntables?hash=item110315105860&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1234%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 Jeremy

Last week I purchased a Zu DL-103 through an eBay auction they occasionally run. They had (10) 1% tolerance carts that sell on their website for $499, listed for $299. Then I was offered a 10% coupon from eBay, so it ended up being $269 for a $499 cart. Keep your eyes peeled and you may find a good deal as well. Jeremy

I think there are some K-600 mid horns on e-bay now. They are kinda pricey, but they are pretty hard to find. I feel they are the hardest of all the factory Heritage mid horns to find. If you are in a hurry you may have to take what you can get. All other components are readilly available on e-bay or from Bob Crites either on this forum or through his e-bay sales. Good luck, Jeremy

My memories are of his sharp whit, which was approached by only a very few. Jeremy

Luther, Have you ever found the time to veneer those monster speakers of yours? Jeremy

Can you guys take this bickering back to the Jubilee thread? I thought we had a good thread going on the trachorns. Now it's turning into another [bs] Jube thread. Jeremy

You should be able to compare your final resistance measurement without pulling any woofers. Check your current final resistance at the input of your AA. Then unhook the K-woofer from the AA and hook up the Stephens and measure final resistance at the input again. This should give you a rough idea of the change in your final impeadence. I would try that before going through the work of swapping out the woofers. Good luck. Jeremy

GotHover, I'm curious about the process you used to layout the flare. Did you plot the points by hand or use some other method? If you followed the link I posted eariler in this thread you can see how I plotted the points, from the volvotreter spreadsheet, when I built mine a little over a year ago. I have since gained access to Autocad software and i'm able to plot the curve from the spreadsheet via a script file. It now takes about 5 minutes to do what previously took me about 2 days to do. The Autocad plot should be much more accurate, but I don't like the way it looks. When I plotted by hand the flare only gets bigger as you go away from the throat toward the mouth. But with the Autocad plot the flare actually gets smaller than the throat diameter before it begins to get larger as it flares out to the mouth. I have tried different mouth ratios and throat sizes and the Autocad plot always shows that initial decrease in cross section area before getting larger and flaring out. If I undrestand the Tractrix science right, then this would be increasing the compression on the driver there by changing the Fc. I may try building one that way and testing for actual response to see if there is any difference between to 2 plotting styles. I would like to know your, or anyone with experience in this area, thoughts. Jeremy

I'm pretty sure I can see screws or studs or something like that along the seams in the picture above. It may have been glued or welded, but it appears to use mechanical fastners as well. Good luck to you. Jeremy

Hi Phil, Sorry I didn't reply earlier. I have no idea about the source of the picture. I lifted it off of this forum, only because I thought it look pretty neat. You could do the same for now. Just right click on it and save it to your hard drive. Sorry I can't help with any of your other questions, but at least this will bump it to the top and maybe someone else can help. Also, you should post a question about this is the subwoofer section of the forum if you have not already. Good luck to you, Jeremy

I'm not sure if this is what you are looking for , but I have this picture on my hard drive. Jeremy

Here is a link to a post I did a while back on builing a 225 hz tractrix horn. If you follow it through you will see how I dealt with the gap on my all wood horns. http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/93132.aspx Jeremy

Welcome, from another member of the "free Cornwall" club. Jeremy

Greg, i'm curious what you do to get that beautiful reddish color out of your Rosewood projects. Are you just oiling them or is there a particular stain you like to use? Jeremy

It seems to me that with 7's, the louder they get - the clearer they get. Jeremy

I hear that paper turntables sound quite "thin". (Insert rimshot)

I might be in for the later date, as i'll be out of town on the 9th and 10th. If you go for the later date, I could bring my Blueberry Xtreme, or a Dynaco ST-70. I'm about an hour from Milwaukee. BTW Congrats and good luck! Jeremy

Michael raises an important point. There are plenty of drivers out there that will provide adequate low end performance, the problem is going to be finding one that has usable response up high to cross over to your 500 hz mid horn/ K-55 and porvide house shaking bottom end. It's all about compromises when trying to design your own speaker. I've had an ongoing DIY project for a while now and I still don't have it all figured out. I'm am using a single 18" as you mentioned above. I'm using JBL 2245 18" drivers which JBL says can be crossed over up to 800 hz, but most on the Lansing Heritage forums say they are only good up to 300-400 hz depending on the enclosure. I hope to be crossing over somewhere in that range to my JBL 2482 midrange driver mounted on my DIY 225 hz Tractrix horn. The 2482's have a frequency response from around 300-5000 hz. I then plan to crossover around 4500 hz to a pair of Bob Crites CT-125 tweeters. It's difficult to find drivers to give flat response across the entire spectrum in a 2-way or 3-way set-up. You may have noticed many of JBL's speakers are 4-way. The more drivers you ad into the mix the more difficult it becomes for the home builder to design passive networks. Maybe you plan to tri-amp or quad-amp with active crossovers. Once I get my bass cabinets complete and everything assembled, I plan to do frequency response tests on each individual driver in assembly to see what kind of actual response i'm getting from each driver before I decide where to put the crossover points. This may prove to be more difficult than it sounds. I just want to point out that alot of thought needs to go into a home brew project, unless you prefer to emulate a project that someone has already proven out like the DBB Cornscala. Just remember that the journey may be more important as the destination. Good luck, Jeremy

Awesome find! I love these old JBL's. I would love to have one of those to use as a center between my c-38's. Or better yet a pair. The D-130's have a suprising range. They are almost usable on their own. I'd give it a whirl Marty, your a crafty guy! Jeremy

That works out to 8.8 posts a day. You've been a busy guy! I don't think I post 8 times a month. Wish I could come hang with you guys at the Pilgrimmage, but I have to pass yat again. Have fun! Jeremy

I really like rim drive tables. Maybe it's the engineer in me that digs sophisticated mechanicals. I'd also love to add a Garrard 301 or 401 to my collection. My dream rim drive table is pictured below, but until I strike it rich or at least until the kids move out, i'll have to remain a member of the infamous "124 mafia." Jeremy