capo72

http://www.apcc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=S15 http://www.apcc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=h15 I've been researching for this purchase recently and I like these units from APC. I'm leaning toward the H15. I really like the S15, for the battery backup. I think that would be a great feature for my RPTV. My tv has a fan to cool the bulb after it is shut down. This is supposed to extend bulb life. So I thought if the power goes out while your watching it, no fan to cool bulb. Bulb life is then shortend. My biggest struggle is the price difference. The S15 can be had for a little over $1000, where as the H15 is around $400. I can almost buy 3 new bulbs for my TV for the price difference. Thats like 25000 hrs of viewing time, so I don't think I can justify the more expensive S15 unit. Jeremy

04 Dodge Ram Quad cab "Hemi", or my 1970 Plymouth Cuda (Only when the sun shines [] ) Money no object 1971 Plymouth Cuda Convertible 426 Hemi. One recently didn't hit the 5 million reserve at an auction. Jeremy

Tool & Die maker , going to school to become a Pharmacist. Big change, I know! If I could figure out how to make money tinkering with audio equipment, or talking about cars, I'd be a millionare. [] Jeremy

I sent you an e-mail. Jeremy

"We want cornwalls", "We want cornwalls", "We want cornwalls!" (slamming forks and knives up and down on the table) Jeremy

Speaking of worthless without pictures, please take a picture of you s#ing a wildcat. That will be interesting to see. [] Oh yeah I want to see the Cornwalls too! [:S] Jeremy

I got thinking after my last post (dangerous). To get back to your question, what type of cable do you plan to run for the sub? I have about a 25 ft. run for my subs using RG-6 coax. I will be using the F-type connectors with an RCA adaptor. I figure that there are coax runs over 100ft. in my house already for my satelite receivers without any noticeable degredation. So a 25-50 ft. run should be no problem for an audio signal. My only concern is with splitting my signal to the subs. It is already split once, and i'm considering splitting it again to send the signal to an amp for some bass shakers for under the seats. Jeremy

Scooter, Sorry I don't have an answer to your question, but I have some advice to offer. I'm almost ready for sheet rock in my room and I had the same thoughts. I should run all my cables 1st. Well I have tried to plan for everything I could think of, but I'm sure I'll forget something or need to upgrade or change later. What I did and am suggesting, is if it's possible run a pvc pipes through the walls to ease pulling cables later. I used 2" PVC from the front to the back of my room, between the overhead floor joist. I have also used 1 1/2" PVC in the walls in some areas, and have them run to an outlet box in the wall. I just used a holesaw to cut a 1 1/2" hole in the side of the box and run the PVC to it. After the sheet rock is up, I'll be able to use a fish tape to pull wires anywhere I want. Sorry to get off topic. Good luck with that project. Jeremy

That's half the fun, isn't it? At least it is for me! Jeremy

Or, you can have someone else use the search feature for you. [] You could also try Audiogon if your looking for used. Jeremy

Use the dealer search function on the Klipsch home page. Jeremy

Every 3 months or 36,000mi. whichever comes 1st. [] Jeremy

The RB-75's are nice. If you lay them on their sides, the 90x60 array of the horn will be off. The horn is integrated into the front face, so it cannot be rotated back. It may sound just fine to you though. I'm building new cabinets for my 75's so I can hang the from the ceiling sideways. In my system they are side surrounds, so i'm not worried about the tweeter array. Also, if you buy from Acoustic Sound Design you will get a good price, but the serial numbers will be removed and you will not have the 5 year warranty that comes with your Reference speakers. At least that was the case with the inwalls I bought from them. Other than that, they were good to deal with and the price was good also. Good luck to you. Jeremy

$1600 is a great deal for a 200.7, I paid $1500 for my 200.5. For that price you could try it out for a while, and if you don't like it i'm sure you could sell it without taking a loss. Used 200.7's don't last long on Audiogon. Jeremy

I use a B&K Reference 50 processor which I really like, but the series II is even better. I also use B&K amps with my Reference 7 Klipsch home theater. I have a Reference 200.5 amp, and just added a Reference 4430 amp, and I really like the warm sound that I get with B&K. I think they go well with Klipsch. Man I would love to hear your KLF set-up. I really would like to find a place for some KLF 30's or 20's. Good luck in your quest. Jeremy

Good to be home again. What a grueling weekend [] Jeremy

My boss will be happy to hear that the forum is down for a few days! Jeremy

Me like Shakira

Sound advice from Tom. I've been through the same thing with my spec home. I wanted everything to be done when I moved in, but had to deal with the overlapping permit issue. I ended up just letting them finish and do my own thing after we moved in. 2 years later i'm still working on the basement and theater room. My advice is don't be in a hurry. As hard as it is, you must exercise patience. Jeremy

I had the same thing happen to me. The seller made their feedback private and quickly amassed alot of negatives right after I won one of their auctions. I got ripped off for about $50. I filed with Paypal, and after about 6 weeks, they ruled in my favor. That was great except the seller emptied their Paypal account, and there was nothing to recover for my loss. Just got a big SORRY! IMO Paypal protection is a joke. If only I had used a credit card. The seller was booted from eBay shortly after and i've learned a lesson. Oh well, it was my 1st real loss of $$ in over 100 transactions, so I guess it's not bad in the grand scheme. Jeremy

---------------- On 7/25/2005 9:57:17 PM popbumper wrote: I DID pick up a 4'x8' sheet of 10mm thick Black Walnut veneer today, and was able to get the first cabinet covered. ---------------- You've done a fantastic job on those cabs. Quick question for ya. Did you use 10mm thick veneer, or 10mil thick? 10mm is just over 3/8" thick. And if it is indeed 10mm thick could you let me know where you got it. I could use that for some cabinet door panes. Thanx for your time, Jeremy

I'm a fan of the JVC HD-ILA RPTV's. They have a 52" version. Not sure what it can be had for but the MSRP is $3800, so i'm sure it can be had for alot less. I really like the picture. I've got the 70" version, and I think it's fantastic. JVC uses 3 color chips instead of the single chip and color wheel that most DLP's use. To me it looks brighter and more natural. My 2nd choice would be Mitsubishi. I was set on buying their DLP tv, until I saw the JVC. The Mits looks great also if you remove the glass sheild to take away the glare. Sony's LCD DLP is nice too! Jeremy

I'm headed in to the Museum of Science and Industry tomarrow. May hit the Field Museum too, if we have time. Gotta stop in Skokie and check out a Subwoofer 1st though. Jeremy

---------------- On 7/27/2005 2:39:43 PM Cornwalled wrote: Yep, I surely am. Just me and the cat, and she doesn't mind. ---------------- On 7/27/2005 2:37:24 PM mbajner wrote: you must be single cause a wife would never put up with all that crap ---------------- ---------------- I could tell your single, because I had to hide my copy of "Playboy's sexy nude coeds" alot better than you hide it! Jeremy

---------------- On 7/27/2005 8:51:32 PM dragonfyr wrote: Doesn't this belong in the Pro-Media forum? ---------------- OUCH! That's good stuff Jeremy