Kriton

Indy, thanks for the reply. Yes, I have the TGIV - you have the latest firmware too? I figured when it got to the certain distance it would jump by increments, I just don't understand why it wouldn't do it equally. I have tried to call customer support, and I have never been able to get someone to call me back after having to leave a message... I will try to unplug it...hadn't thought about that, but I am pretty sure that I have already done that after flashing the software... Check your software, I am thinking it is a glitch in the new update... Thanks, K

Hmmm... I am not entirely sure what that problem could be, usually IME, is that if the horn is out - it is out, not coming on just when the volume is turned up... There are several things I would check - first, make sure the wiring is all attached and working right, that almost sounds to me like a short someplace - if the wiring inside is all good...then I certainly would replace the diaphragms on the horn, which is actually a very easy procedure (if they are anything like the tweeter diaphragms - which I have replaced 5) - and they are still available I beleive - do a search for Bob Crites on this forum, and he can set you up with the parts and instructions to redo the diaphragms for the horns... I suggest that you look at reworking the crossovers by replacing the capacitors too at some point, even at 16 years old I think they could problably use a refeshing - search for Heresy II crossovers here in the forum, and you will find lots of information - Bob is the man for those parts too. Hope this helped, welcome to the forum. K

Hey Indy, Since this thread has resurfaced - I had a question for your Sunfire guys on the distance setting in the TGIV - I have worked very hard resetting all of my stuff, and with the help of a trusty assistant and tape measure, I had my front RF-7's equidistant from the listening sweet spot - now the weird thing - I went into the distance settings on the TGIV, and I tried to set the distance of the fronts the same - and I couldn't do it - the TG would NOT let me set the speakers at the same distance - I could set 12'8", then it would jump to 13' even, but the other speaker would only go 12'10" to 13'4" - in other words it jumps at that distance by 3-4" inches and not the same in each channel? I have updated to the latest firmware (X.23) - could you guys try this and conform what I am getting? I tried to e-mail getech, but received no response; I thought that might be easier than making a separate post here, but ... Thanks, K

Got mine in the mail today. Nice, and bigger than I thought, just not huge. Off to the framers. Don't know the number, didn't open it past pulling it out a couple of inches; heavy stock looks good, and just as illegible. B

Hey RFP, My 2c, for what it is worth...I refinished a single birch HEresy not too long ago, was stained badly, I sanded it down, but the brown stain went too deep, so I decided to make them black - the stain that i used was the darkest ebony I could find, but it still (even after preparing the wood with stain sealer) came out lighter than I wanted (kind of a black tinted mocha, with the original dark brwon oak stain coming out here and there) I wanted pitch black with some grain showing - kind of like my black RF-7's - anyways... I used black wood DYE, which I found at a local Woodcrafters, it was pitch and soaked into the wood nicely..I followed up with a coat of Watco that I sanded in, re-dyed where necessary, and it came out a very black satin with a low sheen, but I am sure that followed up with laquer, it would do quite nicely as a shiny surface. Wood grain intact, no problems with hardwood splotchy spots, and a nice lustre to boot. A littel dye goes a long way, brush it on the inside and leave it, no painting necessary - and no chance of overspray either. Just my experience - I guess it depends on how dark you want it? K

Jeff! Hey man, long time no see -still want to see that all CW HT ... I have been collecting the components to finish one myself one of these millennia - Oh and read the thread dude! I had my LSD and figured out "Celebrating 60 Legendary Years" several pages back! And there IS a poster - mine is on its way - from drowning creek studios at www.drowningcreek.com They are pretty smallish, about the size of the picture on the shirt, so beware! K aka B

Nope, mine was FedEx box too - and the box said it required signature - but here, that jus don matter much... I like the T's, very cool..and quite unreadable - I figured them out however, "Celebrating 60 Lengendary Years" is the worst - but the "Bullsh!t" was pretty funny... And I thought the same thing - FedEx? K

I have a Sui 9090 and a pair of Corns that would just be made made for this bear. Lets see if I was first, I tend to doubt it! Bruce

I responded via PM - I want it! Bruce

Guter Nachmittag, Kamerad Colter! I just don't understand why it would be so difficult for Klipsch to shut this practice down if they really wanted to, and I do not understand how they would be able to differentiate between grey market and authorized dealer sold speakers - despite what Colter says, even though they probably have little alien homing devices under the evil bucking magnets that watch you from the tuning ports... Authorized dealers buy more speakers than they can move in order to maintain their authorized sales label, and secondarily sell to the grey guys - I can understand that - but wouldn't it be as easy for a company mole (such as Amy-no offense) buying a pair of cheap speaks from the grey guys, getting the speakers in, and tracking down the serial numbers to the authorized dealer leaking these speakers? But what the hell do I know...I may be just wacked into thinking Klispch really turns a blind eye to this, as I can't even figure out which speaker cable to use Anyways, just curious - didn't mean to hijack the thread - just musing on this lousy Monday. K

Ok, tell me how this works - Klipsch has "authorized" dealers, and those dealers purchase speakers at wholesale, right? They are required by their purchaser agreement to only sell at a certain price, etc., but they can guarantee Klipsch customer support - The speakers are all serial numbered, which should make tracking them an easy affair. SO, how does an "unauthorized" reseller get their hands on these speakers? Surely they aren't buying them at retail cost and then reducing them -20% just for giggles - they are obviously purchasing wholsesale from somewhere - which only leaves two possibilities - a) They are buying them from "authorized" dealers after those dealers purchase a big lot of speakers - a secondary market as it were, make a bit on each unit sold wholesale plus - OR Klipsch is selling these speakers directly wholesale to anyone who orders them, but only will give support to those folks who are on their "authorized" dealer list - but in that way sell more speakers. Now under scenario a), it would be rather impossible for the company to say what is and what isn't an authorized seller's speaker, as the serial numbers would only be traceable to an "authorized" dealer - and who could say where they went from there, if they kept the paperwork intact? Yet, when you call Klipsch customer service, they can pretty much tell you from the serial number, whether the speaker is grey market or from the authorized dealer, can't they? Why keep serial numbers if not to maintain inventory lists and distribution data? Or do they just ask where you purchased them from, or require a receipt from an authorized dealer? So it seems more likely that scenario is the answer, downplaying the obvious bite that it would otherwise cutting into the "authorized" dealers, by not offering support of nay kind, but selling them cheaper because of it? These unauthorized sellers on the Bay and elsewhere have been around for a long time and they apparently receive and sell al ot of grey market Klipsch stuff - new stuff too, so doens;t that just kind of negate the whole "Klipsch will get all over them" thing? Further, what kind of premium does the authorized dealer pay for the Klisch "service" over just straight, take your chances, wholesale lot? From the trip to AK, we saw that Klipsch has relatively low failure rate in production quality, so woudn't the gamble that service wouldn be unnecessary on the big speakers be a good one? Am I missing something here? Just thinking out loud on Monday morning. Don't send the Klipsch commandos after me, really. K

Art! Long tome no see - why are you getting rid of these? Hey I would be interested in several...and I have been in the neighborhood moving my buddy in down the road - saw the tropical plants, makes the pool look fantastic... Give me a shout. I can PM you. Bruce

I beleive the Chorus did have a recessed cup, and I am relatively certain that the crossover would have been on the cup, but replacement of the binding posts that I have done on my speakers with the cup crossover was pretty easy, either the positive and negative were held on with washers and screws around an eyelet, or (minimally) soldered on the post - which can be easily removed with a desoldering tool and resoldered - I would clean or rough up the connection just to remove any corrosion (which is just me being picky) and solder the joint carefully - so as not to run solder into the crossover components and or melt the cup (can you tell I accomplished each?) The new parts express binding posts were of course larger and beefier than the stock, so I had to enlarge the holes in the plastic washers at the cup, easily accomplished with my trusty Dremel and a fine file - and a bottle of Labatts during Star Trek reruns. Worked well, looks good and the beer was a bonus. Oh, and I have some broken replacements - if you need them exact (Coy you instigator). K

I enjoyed your post - very terse; short and to the point - but what do you want? Are you looking for someone to offer replacements, or comment on where you can get replacements? Or are you just wanting to vent your frustration for not being able to locate exact replacements or the fact that you (or someone) busted them off in the first place? Personally, I think the binding posts on older Heritage are weak parts (busted one off myself), and I would suggest you replace them with heavier duty all metal binding posts that you could find on Parts Express (www.partsexpress.com). They are cheap-ish and a good upgrade that will not break very easily. Just my 2c. K

Still haven't had any interest in these things, surely someone wants to complete their set? Beautiful shape, white KSF-S5's for sale with ceiling Omnimounts, I would rather them go to some well meaning folks on here then put them up for *gasp* auction... So get back to me dammit. K

If you want specifics, I have a Garmin 60CS handheld GPS, and frankly I couldn't mange without it - it has a nice color screen with about 56 meg of internal memory for maps and POI (which is frankly its biggest drawback - there are other units out there that have far more memry, or it is removeable, so you can load far more maps - BUT that being said, I have currently loaded all of the maps for the DFW Metroplex to Oklahoma, and all of the maps down 35 to Austin, with room to spare, so I don't have a problem with it) - and the the auto navigation is tops, with turn by turn (no silly voices - just beeps) directions - it is water resistant but does not float (it does float but it is not guaran-teed...personal experience here) and it is a rugged little bugger - has compass and altimeter too. Ram Mounts are made specifically for this model for car or boat, great mounts - I recommend those too. The water specific model (76C or CS) does float and has more memory, I think, but it is also bigger. They have come out with a new 60CSx series which I beleive has a memory card slot and faster satellite acquisition, but you will have to look for that - I suggest them pretty highly - around here, where everything looks exactly the same and we have roads like 35W that actually goes south, and 820 N that actually goes east west, it is a life saver sometimes- I can see on a boat how it would definitely be indispensable. Just 2c. K

Thanks as usual Bob - Couple of follow up questions, I know that you suggest not bothering loading up the binding pole cap with all of this stuff and just putting these things on boards, do you think it is worth while replacing the tiny inductors on this crossover? Is it necessary? They do not look as robust as the inductors on say my Cornwall crossovers, but I don't know the difference - and why are there three on this thing? If I wanted to replace the #3504 on the diagram, what would I be looking for - eg. value of mH, etc? I have seen that you are using Sonicaps now, do you have a H2 kit available for the DYI crossovers? Board, inductors, caps and wire harness? AND placement on board instructions? Just a thought _ I would really like to upgrade my new Heresy 2's too one of these days, but that is on a PCB on the square binding pole cap - I think a little easier. Thanks again, K

I am lining up the winter projects and I want to do a recap of my beat up garage H2's, but I cannot tell what the cap values are supposed to be - I was going to attempt to just go ahead and rig them on the black binding post caps as they are now, but I might just go ahead and put a board together - lots of parts on these too that I don't understand as follows: 3 blue rectangular caps 1 blue "can" cap (and has "15k" stamped up the side) as well as 1 square and 1 small round wound AF's (which don;t need replacing, or should I?) If anyone could give me the schematics or tell me what the cap values are in this crossover I would appreciate it... K

Hey, Do a search on the forum for Heresy risers, and you should find everything you need - I know that there are dimensions and size measurements on Cornwalls and Heresys here about - if I was close to a pair of mine I would measure them for you! The general thinking I have gleaned is that the Heresy works best on the floor (for bass enforcement) and pointed upwards to angle the horns more toward the listeners ears...I have Heresys in threee configurations right now, on small, square double stacked end tables (which positions the horns right at above ear level when sitting -approx three to four foot in the air) for rear surrounds - on metal wire risers, which have them about 12 inches off the ground and angled upwards towards my ears as I sit in my listening chair, AND on standard Klipsch risers. Only difference I hear is the varying bass response, floor and angled being optimal. The various stand and risers that you could buy are many, my tables I bought form IKEA (cheap but relatively sturdy) and I stack them to the right height, place sandbags in them to dampen vibration, and they work like a champ. Also you may find a couple of aftermarket wood workers on EBAY that make and sell Klispch risers for the Heresy and Cornwalls to original specs. Oh, and I love the in-your-face sound - you will either love it or hate it, but it will be the most live sound you will ever hear, IMHO - Good luck! K

I saw the Zoo TV tour concert in 1991 or 2 in Toronto way back in the days - it was the wildest event I had ever been to, and that is saying a lot. Mysterious Ways, the phone call to George Bush, the huge screens, the pre-concert interview videos - man, what a show...I have been a huge U2 fan from my college days, one of the first college discoveries I made...haven't followed them much in the later years... I felt about U2 like I did Sting (post Police) - I appreciated the raw anger of the early protest music (Bloody Sunday), but their strength (IMVHO) was the love songs, the yearning passionate almost simple love songs (Wild Horses) - like some of the early Police tunes - I mean I enjoyed "Angel of Harlem", and "In the Name of Love" but from there, it started just going to crap in so many ways... When Sting started doing the politically sensitive stuff, it just lost my attention - there were good nuggets in all of the politcally motivated music, but not enough for me to care... Bad Live is the just the most fantastic U2 speaker test of them all - play it often, replaced it three times from use - good stuff... How is the latest album; How to Dismantle a Nuclear Bomb? K

Bump... Surely someone can use these? Bruce

Hey, I talked about getting rid of these a while back, but thanks to Mongster, I now have the RS7's to replace them...So...haven't heard from Dylan, and here they are for sale... I have a pair of KSF-S5's for sale, they are white, and in good shape - I take exceptional care of my speakers, they have never been driven too hard and they look good - there is a little cosmetic corner damage but nothing noticeable and nothing to affect the drivers. Guaranteed no DOA, you local, you come listen. The white of the speakers looks good against a ceiling - I do not have an idea of price on these things, but I do know that they do not come up for sale very often, so if you need them to round out your system, you should jump...Of course local pick-up preferred, but I can ship for actual cost where ever you may be in the CONUS; I have a knack for packing I also have a pair of Omnimouts specifically designed for these things (fit the screw section in the backs) that I may include, if you are interested. If you want picts or want to make an offer, e-mail me, and I will get back to you. Thanks, Bruce

Huh? I would love to read that article, post a link please. I have run my 400/7 at full out both music and cinema, and never thought I had a problem with distortion from the amp? Maybe someone can chime in on this, but it seems far faetched to me at normal listening levels that even .5% distortion could cause audible difference or fatigue? Never had the problem with mine, so maybe I am just tone deaf. K

You know, I thought that too - that SACD was dead, and while there are not a lot of current albums coming out on SACD, there seems to be no end to the classical (both seemingly new and old remastered) being issued in SACD, I am forever seeing ads from Acouctic Sounds, et al. with new albums coming out on SACD - somebody is still buying them... I think SACD is awesome, I am just sorry it took me so long to find that out - hard to listen to some of my cds now after spending a great deal of time with SACD - even the hybrid discs shoot themselves in the foot, when you listen to the cd track and the SACD track right after each other, you start to get the real perspective - BUt I am with OB, this format jumping thing is crap and nonsense - pick the best format, and get on with it... K

Ok, the translation was pretty hilarious - How many times does it refer to our German friend as "Werner tightness" - very funny, and for some reason I thought of the tight curls on Michael fro - "Colter tightness" Works for me! Ok, question I have is the one photo of the Klipsch "priminister" that black sinister looking speaker in the one photo - is that the "Premier" that we have been hearing about? What does that bugger sound like and do we have specs? K