johnnyp

Can different taps be used on the 3619 or the T2A to attenuate the driver more or less without altering the crossover frequency? The reason I ask is because I prefer the sound of the K-55v without the the bugscreen but it is louder (too loud) without it.

What changes would I like to see to the website? 1) Arrange messages in a stack - Last reply added to the top, not bottom. 2) Search function - does not work as well as it did a few years ago. 3) Increase default Font size - what is the default? 8? How about 10 or 12 or maybe user scalable?

Jim, Just for fun, what is it you like about your older Model AA crossovers and how do the components differ from your later ones?

artto, I vaguely recall that PWK said that it was of upmost important that the upper cabinet of the K-horn be securely mounted to the bass bin. As deaf as I am, I definitely heard a difference between one resting on top and one secured. So, I replaced the wing nuts with regular nuts plus fender washers, and tightened all assemblies with a wrench. I think you'll hear a difference too.

Beautiful x-over! If so inclined, you may want to try an Auricap capacitor. I have no experience with them but they are popular upgrades. If you try 'em, let us know here what you think. http://www.audience-av.com/auricap5.htm

My experience with Carver Magnetic Field amps is similar to artto and Colin. I remember being all excited when I met someone "in the business" who got me a great deal on a Carver. Now, I don't even remember the model number. I do remember thinking "Gee, for an amp that is capable of 375 watts/channel it sure doesn't weigh much. Maybe this is the future of amplifier design?" I hooked it up to my brother' s Klipschorns with great expectation only to be disappointed. The music would play clean and loud without distortion but it was lifeless and uninvolving. I disconnected it within the week and sold it within a month.

Although one can parallel multiple capacitors to achieve a desired capacitance sum, I have found that I definitely do not like the sound of more than two caps in parallel. Can't explain why. YMMV. I have currently altered my Model AA to use a single 2uF cap on the tweeter. This is much more pleasant to my ears than the stock 3rd order filter. I realize that I risk frying my T-35s.

I agree, Esker, the inductor for the bass horn on the Model AA network should not be bypassed. I have Khorn clones with Klipsch AA networks and drivers. I ran my Khorns for about 6 months w/o the bass inductors after conducting a simple listening test. But my test was flawed. During the test, I listened to a bass unit with and without the inductor while leaving the squawker and tweeter disconnected. I preferred (and still prefer) the bass units without a series inductor if listening to the bass units only. Al Klappenberger convinced me, in a private email conversation, that the bass inductors are needed to "balance" the network. He was correct. I reconnected the inductors and conducted a similar test this time keeping the squawker and tweeter connected. Al was right and I noticed an immediate improvement. The bass is tighter and the sound is more "coherent". Now, I run my AA's with the tweeter diodes disconnected. Also, per a post by djk and Al I have increased the value of the second capacitor in the tweeter circuit. Both of these mods are improvements to my ears. ------------------ John Packard

What an ugly graph. Reminds me of the Sawtooth Mtns in central Idaho. How do the good folks at K&A get away with calling it a +/- 5dB speaker? ------------------ John Packard

Your math is good, Gil. Then, 1/4 of 250 hz = 13.5" and 1/2 of 250 Hz = 27". Hmmm, it is not clear to me what would be causing the cancellation. If the graph is valid, what do you think causes the poor response at 250 hz? I have wondered how they determined the frequency response of the K-horn. If one stands on axis with respect to the squawker and tweeter, say 1 meter out and 1 meter vertical, the bass output is more subdued than when one approaches either wall. At first I thought this was because the output of the squawker/tweeter was "hotter" on axis, but then Idisconnected them and tried the experiment again and the phenomenon persisted. ------------------ John Packard This message has been edited by johnnyp on 04-20-2002 at 12:03 AM

Nice post, Gil. I am surprised Dr. Edgar/Hunter didn't perform (or include) the frequency comparison from 200hz down to 35 hz. The huge trough at 250hz of the 3" x 13" restrictor slot is disconcerting. If this is due to frequency cancellation, what is the 1/4 length measurement of 250 hz? ------------------ John Packard This message has been edited by johnnyp on 04-19-2002 at 08:29 PM

I think there were several versions of the Speakerlab SK's. Some of the earlier versions used horns in the upper cabinet similar to the Klipsch Kornerhorn while later versions used a series conventional direct radiators in the upper cabinet. If yours are the earlier, fully horn-loaded versions I would try to secure some Klipsch Model A-A crossovers. There were at least two posts to the klipsch forum within the last month who had these crossovers for sale. ------------------ John Packard

JW, Your bride must be wonderfully tolerant of your audio expenditures. perhaps she has her own arcane vices? Ah, now your requests for frequency vs. impedance data makes sense. You're tinkering with the A-A! I was thinking of doing the same. Spring must be coming. Will you share your A-A final design/mod here? What brand of network caps did you decide on? ------------------ John Packard

quote: Originally posted by dndphishin: Why is it that when such potential deals surface, they are in the middle of nowhere??? Aaaaargh! "...middle of nowhere..."?? Where were you during the 2002 Winter Olympics? Whoever heard of Moline, IL? The speakers in that auction are not Klipsch, repeat not Klipsch. The winner of that auction will be disappointed and angry. They are poor quality Klipsch K-horn knock-offs built in the late 70's by a now-defunct company called Speaker Factory in WA state (not to be confused with Speakerlab). They came with EV T-35 tweeters, a fiberglass copy of the Khorn squawker, an atlas driver and a bass section built of particle board with a cheap 15" woofer. The weakest link is their crossover. I wouldn't pay $500.00 if they were in "as new" condition. It is not my auction but I'm positive that's what they are. So relax. ------------------ John Packard

I purchased a pair of JBL Model 2245H last fall just after the tent sale started. The online ordering was different because there was no order number or email order/shipping confirmation that I remember. 10 days later, the gear shows up delivered to my door. The speakers were new, unused, and came with 5-year transferrable warranties. No complaints. ------------------ John Packard

John Warren: Gee, that University driver looks like a woofer on steroids! Is that (4) voice coil leads I see in your photo? What's up with that? ------------------ John Packard

The bug screen on my K-55V was pressed in. I was able to remove it, without damaging it, by using a small blade knife and a little patience. If you attempt it, pry the chrome ring that contains the screen from its outside edge, not the screen itself. Incidentally, although the K-55V sounds clearer sans bug screen, it also sounds noticeably louder. Too loud, in fact, w/o a crossover tweak, so I re-installed it. ------------------ John Packard

I've owned an EICO ST-70 for about a year and like it very much. The mids and highs are the most natural I have heard, especially after the easy Loudness Switch mod. One thing though, I had it hooked up to my speakers incorrectly until I bought an owner's manual. (Darned jumper wire!) Owner's manual's are available for all EICOs' at: http://www.agtannenbaum.com/e_cat.html I bought one because I wanted to try the tube sound w/o spending much. My EICO's weaknesses are 1) some of the tubes are hard to find (should I need a replacement)and 2), the bass is full but not as tight as some of my SS amps (moderate-priced tubes amps have notoriously low damping factor). Good council above. Hunt for a low-priced HF series EICO with the EL-85/6BQ5 tubes. There is always a risk purchasing used tube equipment. Make sure the seller did at least a tube test before you buy. ------------------ John Packard This message has been edited by johnnyp on 01-03-2002 at 01:03 AM

I replaced the Dayton 15 woofers in my Khorn-style bass units with genuine K-33-Es about 6 months ago. I thought the K-33-E would be obviously superior so I didnt do a thorough A/B test. I believe I preferred the Daytons to the K-33-E's. The Dayton drivers have the following specs: Fs = 26.4 hz Vas = 11.98 cu ft Cms = 0.057 in/lb Mms = 3.93 oz. Rms = 4.94 lbs/sec Xmax = .311 in Qms = 8.25 Qes = .30 Qts = .29 Re = 5.4 ohms Le = 1.4 mH Z = 8.0 ohms BL = 18.2 N/A Sens= 95.23 dB (1 watt/1 meter) Is there a simulation program available which will show the performance of a driver with these specs in a Khorn enclosure? Or, can anybody eyeball these specs and comment how they should be expected to perform?

Inexpensive but good tube gear? Condsider an EICO ST-40 or ST-70 integrated amp. These trade for $150 - $200 on eBay. If they are in good shape and have original Mullards, they are hard to beat. Course, it's always a risk buying used tube gear from an auction w/o be9ing able to demo it first. I took a chance and bought an ST-70 a year ago. Very good sound. A month later, checked and set the bias and did the Loudness Button circuit mod as found on: http://home.netcarrier.com/~rstevens/st-40.html Oh my goodness! Haven't used my other gear since.

About 5 years ago, a good friend purchased some Energy brand HT speakers based upon the dealer's recommendation. I am unsure of the model number or the driver config but they stood about 18"- 24" tall. During loud sounds (gunshots, explosions, drums, etc) the Energy speakers sounded like what I can only describe as cone over-excursion -- highly distorted to say the least. They lasted about 2 nights before he returned them. I doubt any of the Klipsch speakers would exhibit this problem as the trademark Klipsch sound is to be able to play loudly w/o distortion. Bottom line: Prior to purchasing Energy, make sure you can return them if you don't like them. ------------------ John Packard

I am unsure about the manufacturer of the K-33. I purchased a pair of K-33 drivers from a board member recently. He shipped them to me in boxes marked "K-43-KP", the heavy-duty Klipsch alternate to the K-33. The shipping label was as follows: From: Pyle Manufacturing, LLC To: Klipsch, Inc So the K-43-KP drivers are made by Pyle. And I'd guess the current K-33-E are mfg'd by Eminence. But I don't know who made the older ones marked simply "K-33". ------------------ John Packard

Good advice, as always, from John A. I would add it is entirely possible that only one tweeter diaphragm was damaged with no damage to any of the other drivers or speaker components. To replace the tweeter diaphragm yourself, you will have to: 1) have basic soldering skills, and 2) install the diaphragm in-phase with the other drivers (There is an easy test to verify you are installing it "in-phase"). ------------------ John Packard

Gil, You also may want to try MCM Electronics: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/welcome.jhtml (just hit "Go" to enter their website as a guest -- not necessary to register). My search for "belt" on their site resulted in more than 580 different belts (VCRs, turntables, etc). Most belts are listed by size. ------------------ John Packard

If there is a taper in the bore of your adaptors, I suggest NOT to straight-bore them. I learned an expensive lesson when I straight-bored a pair of fiberglass K-horn "squawker" replicas. I straight-bored the horns to remove a small discontinuity or rough spot in the throat of one of the horns that i could feel with my finger, about 1 1/2" from the threaded end of the horn. I can't remember what size bit I used, but I only removed a minimal of material. The result was a big disappointment even after careful sanding and blending. Although only an inch or two of the horns were affected, the straight-bore ruined the horns. Gave them that distinctive "cupped hands" horny sound and excessive distortion at higher volumes. ------------------ John Packard