jason str

Sounds like a winner, better sound is never a bad thing.

I have owned many Ingersoll Rand air tools in the past, they make very good long lasting products. Normally i dont roll the cords up on my power tools with the exception of the router, i just throw them in a drawer when not in use. I do like to keep my extension cords neat & tidy or i tend to trip over the dam things.

If you have problems with skipping disks under mid to moderate listening levels something is wrong. I would need to pump at least 120+ watts to my Chorus II's to get skipping from either deck. The Tuba's need to be low passed under 70 Hz under higher volume or i get the same thing. Turning down the bass will help with my gear, i do not normally crank it up too often anymore. Call the repair center where you had the work done and tell them whats going on if you think its abnormal.

On a good note my Skilsaw circular saw has cut miles of lumber and plywood. The cord wore out where it comes out of the handle but i rigged some fuel line with black tape over it and has been that way for years.

Pictures always help a sale. Good luck with your upgrade.

My Craftsman table saw was purchased well over 20 years ago, lasted about 4-5 years and the motor burned out. The reciprocating saw and jigsaw were purchased 15 or so years ago, the recip saw went first, the shaft wore out and would wobble back and forth excessively and finally got so bad the key chuck lever to change blades would not work. The jigsaw just stopped working, not sure if it was the switch or the motor, i just threw it out. My Grandfathers Black & Decker is still running strong. My old Craftsman 3/8 drill trigger would work intermittently and was purchased shortly after the jigsaw, it would kick on and off while cutting and i would have to feather the trigger like an old carbeurator with a bad accelerator pump. My tools were used most every day though and were probably not made for the professional, i can see a normal homeowner not wearing tools out so quickly.

Both of mine skip too when cranking up the volume. Done it since new. Also Sony ES products. Must be normal.

That saw stop looks like a good investment, luckily i have never been hurt using power tools, my grandfather taught me wisely when i was just a youngin to respect the tools. One of my shop teachers Mr. Connell ( i always took shop classes in school ) was missing half of his fingers and would wave his hands around ( what was left of them anyways) and speak of the importance of shop safety before he fell asleep standing behind his pedestal still standing up. Then it was free time to make things we were forbidden to make. I have been using many Ryobi brand tools, some purchased used. While not the best products on the market i have found they hold up very well and do what they were meant to do. My 1/2" drill has been abused mixing concrete, drywall mud, grout, and the usual drilling of course without a hiccup and the Ryobi table saw works great too. My worst luck has been using Craftsman power tools, every one has broke, reciprocating saw, drill, table saw, jigsaw. Never again will i buy power tools from sears. Maybe bad luck or overuse i don't know.

I had that same router, it was good even out in the yard. Mine went out though and i bought a cheapie Trendnet model and it works almost as good, almost.

That looks like the backside of my computer workstation.

The only way i have seen bondo come loose is if the wood/ metal holding the epoxy rots away.

Bondo is an epoxy and will stick to most anything, do not use wood filler as it will not adhere nearly as well. Wood filler is great for filling countersunk nailholes and other small surface imperfections but not for repairing corners or larger areas or panels that may resonate.

I have the full Bill Fitzmaurice CD, and the THT and THTLP both use 15" drivers. The TT and TT Long use 8 or 10" drivers. The TT Long's dimensions are 12" or wider X 15" X 60". You can use dual 8's in a TT long that is 20" to 36" wide. Could you be talking about one of the pro BFM subs? The THTLP can be built 15"x18"x72" using a 12" driver

I have been using Irwin Marathon saw blades for ages. Great blade for a reasonable price. Just be sure to get the proper blade for your stock you will be cutting and it will last a long time.

You will lose roughly 2 dB. Unless you plan on trying out for a SPL contest the slimmer model is more than enough. Going from 15" to 12"? Not compared to a JL F113, right? Direct radiator bass such as from a JL F113 is different than horn-loaded bass. If you like KHorn bass, you'll like THT bass. Yes i was comparing a bigger THT cabinet loaded with a 15" to a slimmer version with a 12" driver. Horn loaded is the way to go, tight snappy bass and plenty of it.

You will lose roughly 2 dB. Unless you plan on trying out for a SPL contest the slimmer model is more than enough.

Both sound very similar. The THT just hits lower notes and is more efficient.

You need the Klipsch K101-S Not sure if these will work, ask the seller. Ebay K101

That CV horn would not be a good match for the LaScala, it is better suited for pro use. If Claude's Tuba HT is within distance from you it would be a great match. Other good options would be to look into Danley products or find a local Bill Fitzmaurice builder and get a Tuba HT or Table tuba. If you have decent woodworking skills you could build one yourself. Direct radiating subs will work but will not be a sonic match, horns do sound different

Are used Klipsch speakers prices going up or is it just my imagination. Krazy prices on CL & fleabay. My Chorus II's must be worth $2000 if people can get $700 for Heresy's & $1500 for Cornwall's. Maybe the market is shifting.

Shame what happened to the man. Hope he went out quick and did not suffer. Not a big fan of fast and furious movies, i thought they were ho hum at best.

Horn sub best matches with horn speakers. Good idea to upgrade that that crossover.

Guys could he build a couple or have a couple or buy a couple of those Danley Spuds and use them as walls behind the Khorns. I saw plenty of placement options but he seems to have his mindset on something small. Well those panels have to stay where they are in the pic same as the shelves, what other options do you see??? Looks to me like a long style table tuba would fit under your record cabinet, maybe even a slim THTLP. A pair of long table tubas should fit to the inside of the mains or maybe slide your stereo cabinet and the other things you have covered up to one side or the other and it should fit a THTLP. A pair of Slim Table tubas could go behind the K-horns or in front. Whats on the other side of the room ? Table Tuba's can be built as small as 12"x30"x30" and the LP version 12"x15"x60" + legs if needed. Loaded with an 8" driver THT as small as 15"x36"x36" or for the LP 15"x18"x72 loaded with a 12. Take some measurements, one of these options will fit and blend better with your horns than a direct radiating subwoofer. Do you have any pic's of these subs you are talking about? I don't currently have any slim cabinets built, just 2 15" Table Tubas, one is a unfinished LP version but there is some generic pictures on the websight. The finish can be anything you want. http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/THT.html http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/TT.html

Guys could he build a couple or have a couple or buy a couple of those Danley Spuds and use them as walls behind the Khorns. I saw plenty of placement options but he seems to have his mindset on something small. Well those panels have to stay where they are in the pic same as the shelves, what other options do you see??? Looks to me like a long style table tuba would fit under your record cabinet, maybe even a slim THTLP. A pair of long table tubas should fit to the inside of the mains or maybe slide your stereo cabinet and the other things you have covered up to one side or the other and it should fit a THTLP. A pair of Slim Table tubas could go behind the K-horns or in front. Whats on the other side of the room ? Table Tuba's can be built as small as 12"x30"x30" and the LP version 12"x15"x60" + legs if needed. Loaded with an 8" driver THT as small as 15"x36"x36" or for the LP 15"x18"x72 loaded with a 12. Take some measurements, one of these options will fit and blend better with your horns than a direct radiating subwoofer.

Guys could he build a couple or have a couple or buy a couple of those Danley Spuds and use them as walls behind the Khorns. I saw plenty of placement options but he seems to have his mindset on something small.