Bacek

Nice trick, for sure 3.85 is much closer then 3.35. From what I remember ear "resolution" is 0.3db So I would say B+ for a clever aproach

At least from T4A data sheet and voltages there its 4dB (10V -> 6,31V), as opposed to T2A where it's labeled as "3" but voltages are 10V->6.8V which is 3.35 You are right if we are comparing AA vs AL-3. But if we are looking at AL-3 only and use of different transformers in same place then there will be difference anyway, cause both oh them will have this inductor applied. Only question is if this difference is insignificant or not. Some people swear to hear difference when it can't be measured and here it can be measured.

T2A is 3.35dB and T4A is 4dB. Close but I will not call it the same.

If so then why T4A which has 1 dba higher dumping was used instead of the T2A autoformer?

I run LaScalas in room much smaller than yours (but not as crowded) and they are fine. Heard Cornwall I in even smaller room and they where great. Compared with Heresy "1.5" in different conditions and for me it's no brainer. For original question for me answer is always Cornwall.

That's why I'm asking. Coils from A or AA were not as "luxury" made as those. They look really good. Could you take and post a photo of metal badge, placed on left edge of wooden basis? Anyway they look like k-1000-5000 C22 crossovers. Capacitors values seems to fit. If coils have labels you can verify values.

Are you sure coils are original?

So what about this picture? You could try to use some pipe (ex. from vacuum cleaner) and try to suck it a bit (but not with the machine). This is what I did with Forte's woofer dust cover. But actually with cone, you have the access from behind too, so just try to push it out carefully.

Which version is this? Could you post picture from back side of midrange and tweeter drivers?

I would focus on what is inside. I prefer versions with K55 and K77 to those with drivers from Forte.

That is one point or there can be some DC/AC unbalance on AC side. It increases mechanical humm. In this case DC-Blocker circuit could be used. Some don't recommend this for power or integrated amplifiers.

All capacitors have some tolerance, for bipolar electrolytic it could be 5% or 10% or even more (depends on brand and model, check datasheet). So even if you buy 100uF you can end up with 90uF or 110uF. Not sure if there is a point for investing in MKT or MKP for woofer but if you can afford it then there should be nothing wrong with this. You can also parallel electronical caps (or any other) to lower ESR. So if you combine 3x33uF you will get around 99uF and 3x less est than with single cap. If you will be lucky then with 6x33uF and precise meter you will get two equal pairs. But I would not be worry on few % differences. Drivers alone are slightly different too so anyway you never know how you will end without precise measurements, and I did not heard on any speakers that have non symmetrical crossovers.

Both x8 and x36 have low pass and hi pass connection so 2 should be enough.

Looks like some DIY. $150 for this set of components it's probably a steal. But you can only say if it sounds good. If it's midrange heavy then probably crossover is not set properly for it, you would need to measure it to see how it was tuned. Probably you could make it closer to real Cornwall by exchanging horn to Klipsch H600 or H700 and mid driver to K55V which seems to be bit better then EV 1823M, and use some Type A/AA crossover, but this still will not be Klipsch speaker and cost will be few times more than what you already paid for it.

So again who acts like offended 3y old's? Build own company to play (cause this is hobby for me and kind of childs play) with my own speakers (bough them so they are mine) in my own house? Why? You don't think that's too excessive? Of course Klipsch is not obligated to found place for this kind of discussions but this is another topic. 100% agree on that.

Title/name for modification sub forum has changed. And that is probably answer for your question what is allowed.

I don't like black speakers (piano like) but those look superb. Is this painting technique effect only or veener below paint?

No, because it cannot be detected with blind listening test. Many differences that actually can be measured cannot be detected by ear. So why bother with one which cannot be detected by both?

I have updated the index and did some reorganization/grouping on first page.

Are you sure it's Cornwall 3 not Heresy 3 (k28 seems to be 12'' woofer)? For now I have 3 different schematics and don't know which one is valid

Thanks that was what I was looking for. And webcache version is still reachable with some measurements too.

Anyway I would like to find it. If anyone recalls discussion/topic please give me some hints.

Sorry for slight offtopic. Year or two ago there was discussion on some other alternative for K55. Measurements looked even better than fork55. I don't recall company or driver name and failed to find the topic. Maybe someone knows what I'm talking about and could give me a tip on finding it?

Answer for mine La Scalas is for sure veneering because they have too many dents. Also I did some tests on birch staining with multiple stains and actually I don't like results. So probably I will use walnut too. But I'm struggling with how to veneer part around horns. Probably I will veneer board edges separately from "face" like on original version. Don't like flat look like on Volti restoration.

If you want to keep original drivers I definitely prefer what was in Cornwall I (k55/k77, those which where used in La Scalas and KHorns continuously). If you want swaps then it does not matter, cheaper will be better.