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Tarheel TJ

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About Tarheel TJ

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  1. Chris, I am definitely interested in seeing what you can do with a Heil/MEH design. My first thought when I saw this was "how can I turn this into an MEH arrangement?" It seems like it would have incredible potential!
  2. Looks like you are off to a great start. I am a big fan of modified La Scalas myself. You can get a lot of performance out of that bass bin with an updated top section.
  3. Rudy and Chris, How would you compare the sound of the AMTs to a more traditional compression driver + horn combo? In what ways is it an improvement? Does it fall short in any areas? Thanks.
  4. I am definitely jealous. Woodstock was about 15 years before I was born, but I am a huge fan of that music. Probably 80% of my music collection was recorded between 1965-1975. I have listened to the Woodstock album countless times and watched the film nearly as many. Would love to have been there. I have attended a good many music festivals in my life, but nothing compares to the original! Did you try any of the brown acid?
  5. You don't need to high pass your La Scalas. I ran mine with a typical sub for years without a high pass. The La Scalas don't dig down too low, and being a sealed design, the woofer isn't moving much down there anyway. I am using a fully active setup now, and I didn't really notice much change in bass clarity by high-passing the LS bass bin. That said, if you choose to use a crossover, go fully active with a DSP based crossover. The flexibility and clarity they afford is truly something special. I use a MiniDSP 4x10HD and love it.
  6. While I think some of you have a good point that the measurements could have been done in a better way, I don't find these results surprising. The Klipsch Heritage line has never measured particularly well when it comes to frequency response, impedance and phase angle. It is the fact that they sound so amazing despite all of this that, to me, validates PWK's design philosophy. There have been tons of speakers that have come and gone since the birth of the K-horn that measure much flatter and with better phase coherency. None of them have the visceral impact or clarity of a K-horn. There is a reason people still love Klipsch. Of course, you can always do what many here have done (and what Klipsch themselves have done with the Jubilee). Take what is great about Klipsch and combine it with new technologies like modern compression drivers and DSP active crossovers to solve these issues. Now you can truly have your cake and eat it too. You get the unmatched sensitivity and dynamics of a horn loaded speaker, with much better FR and phase response. Why shackle yourself with the limitations of 60 year old technology?
  7. I am also using a MiniDSP with tubes upstream and down. I am running a Musical Paradise P-307 (Tube preamp & phono stage for R2R and TT) into a MiniDSP 4x10HD. With the MiniDSP acting as the crossover, the signal then goes to a Bob Latino ST-70 (~35wpc PP EL34) for the HF, a Dayton Audio APA150 (150wpc class A/B SS) for the LF, and a Yamaha P2200 (340W class A/B SS) for the sub. I love the tube sound and don't think that using a digital crossover takes away from it at all. In the future, I will probably move that ST-70 from the HF section down the the LF section and use a low-powered tube amp (either SET or OTL) for the HF section for even more tubey goodness.
  8. The Umik-1 from MiniDSP works well ($75). It requires a laptop, but I honestly can't imagine how you would measure and analyze a speaker's output without one. Basically, you hook the Umik-1 up to a laptop, then using Room EQ Wizard (free download), you can then run frequency sweeps. I would recommend running multiple sweeps around the room and then averaging the response to get a better picture of what the speaker is doing. I find that using only one sweep at one location is not enough information to be useful. I'll usually do a couple sweeps 3ft out from each speaker, a couple at the listening position, then one seat to the right of the LP, one to the left, one slightly above, one slightly below, etc. The software can combine the responses to a single curve that paints a pretty good picture of what your speakers are doing in-room. This may sound complex, but its pretty easy once you get the hang of it. The REW software will allow you to plot frequency response, phase, group delay, and probably a whole bunch of other stuff that I have not learned about yet. You can then use it to decide how to adjust your crossovers for the best response. It can also tell you things like whether your different drivers are time aligned, and exactly what kind of EQ you need to correct your speaker's response, if you so desire. It is a very powerful tool for what it costs.
  9. Those are it. Like I said, just make sure if you get a MiniDSP that you get the HD version. It is $100 more, but worth it.
  10. The only unit I have any experience with is the MiniDSP 4x10. It works very well for what I need. Some have complained about the sound quality of MiniDSP units, and I can only imagine they are using the non HD version that runs at 16/44z. The HD units run 24/96 and sounds fantastic to me. Certainly far better than using stock passive crossovers. You do have to be careful to manage your gain structure properly to keep the noise floor down. All of my amps have volume pots, so this is easy to do. Chris A has had great experience with the Xillica units and recommends them. Someday I may give one a try to see if the sound quality is improved, but they are a step up in price as well. For now, I am very happy with what I have. Whatever you get, just make sure it is a digital unit. They are so much more capable than the old analog types. Combined with your Cornscala project, a digital crossover/EQ should make you very happy indeed.
  11. I can't be of any assistance with regard to using the Dirac software, but I would love to hear your impressions of its performance once you get it sorted. I have the MiniDSP4x10HD (no Dirac). I have heard rave reviews of the Dirac upgrade. It is expensive though. Would love to hear some first hand experience. Good luck!
  12. Yes, they do sound different. At times, shockingly so. In fact, when you take a setup you have been listening to for a while and EQ it, it often sounds "wrong" at first. I think this is because your ears and your brain get very used to a particular FR and learn to compensate for it. After listening to the EQ'ed setup for a while, you can switch back to the previous setup and now IT will sound wrong. Over time, your system and your ears begin to zero in on a flatter frequency response. In my experience, once you get there, it does indeed sound much better. The main benefit, I would say, is that it sounds consistent across all different recordings and types of music. Before, I feel like some recordings sounded good, and others not so good. While this is still true with a flatter setup (after all, there will always be good recordings and bad ones), I find that more recordings sound good than before. It's hard to put into words, but I guess you aren't dependent on the frequency humps of your speakers landing in the right ranges for the instruments on the recording. I hope that makes sense. Instead of having good jazz speakers (even midrange response) or good rock and roll speakers (strong bass and highs), you can have it all! With well-designed speakers, it may not take much to get there. My setup is 2-way with a sub (LS bass bins, DE-750TN drivers on ZXPC horns and a THT sub). I am currently using 3 PEQs on the HF section, one on the LF section, and surprisingly, none on the sub. So we are only talking 4 PEQs for the entire frequency range. This gets me from ~22hz - 20khz at +/- 3dB. That is about as good as you can hope for FR wise. In reality, it is not quite that flat, as I choose to boost the bass frequencies a bit. It just sounds better to me that way.
  13. Only one way to find out: measure and see for yourself. I know when I started measuring speaker response, it was a real eye opener. Speakers that sounded really good to me measured horribly. My main system at the time, consisting of stock LaScalas and a THT sub, didn't even come close to flat. There were wild swings in SPL response. Now, I still thought it sounded pretty darn good. Certainly much better than the vast majority of systems out there. That's why I put the little disclaimer in there of "if flat frequency response matters to you". The fact is, most highly regarded speakers, Klipsch or otherwise, will not measure flat. They definitely wont measure flat in-room. I have had a multi-amped, DSP crossover'ed and EQ'ed system for about two years now. I am still working on tweaking the DSP settings, and probably will be for some time to come. It is pretty close to flat now, but not perfect. Setting appropriate crossover points and tuning the driver levels by ear is a perfectly valid approach. There are lots of speakers on here that use that approach and sound excellent. Most of the legendary speakers of the past used a similar approach. Sure, they may have been measured in the lab, but a basic passive crossover network doesn't give you many tools to flatten that response, at least compared to DSP. I think you should assemble your speakers as planned and see how they sound. If you get curious, get a measurement mic and see what they look like on an FR plot. Just be warned, doing this is opening a can of worms. Once you see what your FR really looks like, you will probably be compelled to do everything you can to improve it. It is a long and often frustrating journey. The results can be spectacular though. Good luck!
  14. I did the same thing you are considering. I bought some 2" horns and needed to use my K-55s for a while until I could upgrade to a 2" driver. It worked fine and sounded good to my ears. I never measured it, but it certainly didn't destroy the sound.
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