Tarheel TJ

Yes, $125 plus shipping. They are still available.

To the top. Taking offers. Thanks

I built a Bill Fitzmaurice Tuba Home Theater (THT) sub a couple years ago to go with my La Scalas. I am a very amateur carpenter and I managed to do a decent job with nothing more than a hand-held circular saw (I did have to get a friend with a router to cut the circular driver hole). It is not exactly furniture quality, but it seals up air tight and sounds great. It is very large (36"x36"x30"), but it is an absolute earth mover! If you have the space for one, I definitely recommend it. All in, I spent about $300 on the sub (wood, glue and 15" driver), and another $300 on a powerful SS amp to drive it. If you turn it up all the way, it will shake pictures off the walls! To get the best possible performance out of them, you really should EQ them to your room. This is the one step I have not yet taken, but I am about to. In the next couple of months I will be ordering a USB mic and MiniDSP and begin to EQ the system. I am looking forward to significant improvements.

There are only two kinds of countries in this world: those who use the metric system, and those who have landed on the moon!

Any interest in this stuff? I'll take any reasonable offer. Thanks.

I run a Bill Fitzmaurice THT (Tuba Home Theater) with my Scalas. It is an earth mover for sure. Mine is much too large to fit under anything, but you could conceivably build them with 12" drivers and make them less than 18" tall. There are several other BFM sub designs that also might work well for your application. They are DIY, but they will give you tectonic bass capability for just a few hundred dollars (I think I have about $300 in my sub).

Ok, so it sounds like the ADC/DAC delay is not an issue then. Good to know. I think a measurement mic and a DSP equalizer are in my near future. Now the question is, which one? I am tempted by the Behringer unit because of the price. Anybody have any experience with the FBQ units?

I'd like to see what everyone is doing for subwoofer equalization. I built a THT horn sub a couple years ago to fill in the bottom end that my LaScalas don't provide. I power it with a ~350 watt Yamaha pro amp (P2200), and it is a BEAST! It will actually shake pictures off the wall if you turn it up all the way (my wife loves it when I do this). However, I used a very simple crossover (100hz Fmod low pass), and have not done any measuring or tuning. I am certain that, like most subs in most rooms, I probably have some pretty serious peaks and dips in the response. Now that I have done a little room treatment for the higher frequencies, I would like to address the bottom end. What is everyone using to EQ their subs? I have looked at some of the different solutions out there like MiniDSP, Behringer FBQ, etc. However, I like to listen to LPs a lot, and I don't really want to send my entire signal path through a ADC/DAC conversion if I don't have to. Seeing as analog parametric EQs are pretty rare and hard to find, can I use a DSP based equalizer on the subwoofer signal only? If I do this, will it throw off the time alignment between my sub and my mains? In other words, does the ADC/DAC conversion cause signal delay? Or is there another easy solution to this problem that I am not seeing? I would love to hear how you are tackling this issue. Thanks.

I have some parts left over from my LSIs, as well as a pair of tubes. First up is 4 Klipsch handles from my LSI's. I refinished the cabinets (and removed the top section), so I no longer need them. One corner broke off of one of the handles while I was removing them, but I saved the chip. It can easily be glued back in place, and the handle would still be perfectly functional. $100 plus shipping for all 4. Next is a pair of cast aluminum K400 horns. They are functionally excellent, but one has a little cosmetic damage to the mounting flange. It is very minor and is only visible when the horns are removed from the cabinet. Once installed, they look and function flawlessly. They are wrapped in rope caulk and come with relatively new o-rings from Crites (~3 years old). The rope caulk can be easily removed by their new owner if desired. It has not been on there that long and still peels off cleanly. $125 plus shipping for the pair. Lastly is a pair of General Electric, smoked-glass 6DJ8/ECC88 tubes. They are NOS, dated 1965. I bought them and ended up getting rid of the amp before I ever used them. $50 plus shipping for the pair.

Thanks Deang. I have decided to go for the ALK crossovers before trying to fiddle with different compression drivers. It seems like the best course of action. Of course, my tube amp decided to stop working last night, so I guess I'll have to get that sorted out first. It's always something, haha.

Thanks for the reply. I figured that might be the case. I have been looking at the Radian 651PB, Eminence PSD3006 and B&C DE750TN. They are all available in 16 ohm versions and they all seem to be within a decibel or two of the K-55's rated sensitivity (110dB). I figured that would offer the best chance of working with the AL-3's attenuation settings. I do like to listed fairly loud at times.

Can someone who is more knowledgeable than me answer a question? I know the A/AA crossovers just lets the squawker roll off naturally (i.e. there is no low-pass filter to roll off the highs). Is this true for the AL-3 as well? Looking at the schematic, it has the k-55 wired parallel with an inductor, which makes me think it has a low-pass on the squawker? I am wondering if it might be possible to switch out the k-55 and k-400 with a 2" compression driver and appropriate 2" throat horn. However, I know the 2" drivers will likely not roll-off at the same frequency as the k-55. This would require a low-pass on the squawker to keep it from overlapping the tweeter. I am wondering if the AL-3 would take care of this, or do I need to go to an ALK-type crossover? Thanks

I have a not-so-vintage Thorens TD-190. It is the only turntable I have ever owned, but I think it sounds great. It has an OM10 cartridge on it now. Someday I would love to upgrade to the OM30 or OM40.

Matt, That would be great if you have one available. Please let me know. Thanks!

Gorm, Any chance you still have these? I only need one, but I'll buy a pair if I have to.

I don't have a badge to trade you, but I am in need of one laser badge if you have any interest in selling. Message me if you are. Thanks, Lee

Ok guys, dropping price to $400. The parts are worth more than that. If nobody bites, I'm putting them on ebay next week.

I am in Winston-Salem, NC. I can probably drive up to ~1hr to meet up if you are in the area.

I have a pair of L100 Century Speakers that I would like to sell. These are in very good condition overall. The wood looks great with only minor scratches and no chips or stains. All drivers are in excellent condition; no pushed-in dust caps or tweeters. These speakers have some of the finest drivers ever produced by JBL, or anyone else! The original foam grills are missing, though replacements are available online. The only blemish is a missing spring-loaded cap on one of the speaker terminals. The terminal still works if you simply twist the speaker lead around it. I am looking for $500 local pickup, or you pay shipping costs. I can take more pictures if anyone is interested.

Having just finished building one of these, I can vouch for the fact that it is a great deal! I would buy it myself if it weren't so far away.

Fascinating way to look at music. It makes perfect sense. This is why Arena rock bands play slow ballads and the kids listen to EDM on their ipod earbuds.... cause that's the only thing that sounds good that way! Of course, this is also why a lot of audiophiles listen to nothing but Diana Krall and Jazz quartets, because their puny little speakers can't replicate dynamics like horns can.

I'm currently using a MP-301 to power a pair of La Scalas. It is a good amp for the $, but far from perfect. It has some hum issues out of the box. I was able to minimize this by using a cheater plug to lift the ground. Also, the stock tubes are less than stellar. They are Chinese, of course. I have had good results switching to other tubes. This amp seems to change its sound A LOT when switching tubes. I feel like most amps change character slightly when you swap tubes, not a major change. This amp is different. Swap the 6L6 tubes for EL34s and you get a completely different tonal balance. It is nice for tuning the amp to the speakers, but can be frustrating not knowing what tubes will produce the sound you want without having to buy them and try them out. This may have something to do with the SEP architecture? With only 6.5 watts, you wont get thunderous bass out of a Heresy. However, you have a sub, so that shouldn't be a problem. For less than $400 I think I got a good deal, though I will probably upgrade when I can afford to. It will definitely give you an idea of what tube sound is all about (that sweet, sweet midrange goodness).

Thanks for the reply! I have split Scalas, so the size of the horn is not a concern to me. The bigger the better! I am planning on staying 3-way, so I think the 240 is the one for me. I definitely plan on going 2", but good 2" drivers aren't cheap so it is good to know I can get away with keeping the k-55 until I can afford to upgrade. Now I just need to scrape together some spare cash and order that kit!

GotHover, Can you expand a bit on the performance differences between the Eliptrac 240 and the 400? I am looking at upgrading my (split) La Scala mid horns and this seems like an excellent candidate. Other than the potential to run it lower than 400hz, how is does the sound differ from the Eliptrac 400? Is it better in the lower midrange? Not as good in the upper midrange? How about dispersion? Also, could one use the k-55 with a 1" to 2" adapter like you can with the Eliptrac 400? I would eventually upgrade to a 2" driver, but it would be nice to use the k-55 with the 240 horn until that time comes. Thanks

Well I think that answers my questions. The thing that I didn't recognize is a tweeter protection circuit, and the 7.5 ohm resistor is not stock. Thank you very much, gentlemen. Does this tweeter protection circuit have any effect on sound quality? Has anyone ever removed it to see what it would sound like?