Mighty Favog

SC- Thanks for the kudos! The jury is still out on this mod but if you want to improve the sound of your KLF-20's just grab a roll or two of solder and a 45watt (or more) pencil type soldering iron and rewire the inside of the speakers with Monster Cable 12ga. Oh, BTW it's probably take 6-8 hours to do but i think it was worth it. Jim Cornell, here on the board, gave the encouragement to do this. You can find the cable at most Radio Shacks for about 50-60 cents a foot (don't get it from Best Buy, their a little over $1 a foot!). You'll need about 35 feet or so but I would get 50 just to be sure. Two more things, you'll have to trim down the strands to about half of the original diameter to get it to go through the crossover board. Second, bet careful when soldering the cable directly to the tabs of the tweeter diaphram, the surounding plastic melts easily. It's a relatively cheap upgrade but it can't hurt! Good luck. ------------------ Tom's Money Pit

Gee, just two browsers open? I must have been really bad when I had five open. Made me glad I maxxed out the amount of RAM I could put in my computer. ------------------ Tom's Money Pit

zandern- Take a look at PSAudio's stuff. But be prepared for a heavy price tag. ------------------ Tom's Money Pit

Cowboy- You can also go here and register to add your system to their site then just make a link on the Klipsch site. See mine below. ------------------ Tom's Money Pit This message has been edited by tblasing on 05-05-2002 at 10:34 PM

Be not melancholy for the inevitable part of life that none of us can escape but be thankful that Paul has lived a life that he enjoyed. Surely the fact that we, his followers, have benefited from his interests and curiosities has enriched his life even further. To live the American dream, "Make it better". ------------------ Tom's Money Pit

O.k. then, when I originally saw this ebay auction it had much stronger language than this in the description. Since then the strong language had either been removed or I got which auction it was wrong entirely. It was pretty funny though to see someone try to sell me something with a feed back less than ten. In this guys eyes if you have a rating less than ten then you are not a true "human/customer". AND if you had a rating of, I think, over 100 then take an additional $90 off the price if your using "Buy it Now". Something you just had to read in it's original form to be funny. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1350235644 ------------------ Tom's Money Pit This message has been edited by tblasing on 05-02-2002 at 11:23 PM

never mind.. This message has been edited by tblasing on 05-02-2002 at 03:29 PM

"The Klipsch Files"? Whoops, sorry Mr. Garner. ------------------ Tom's Money Pit

Mike- I too have been let down more than once by the Shack. Over the last 15 years or so it has become increasingly hard to find someone there that has an actual clue about what their doing. I fondly remember the days when any given employee there could grab a bunch of parts (transistors, capacitors, resistors and the like) off the pegboards and assemble a working radio or motion detector right in front or you. It seemed most of these types of people were also going to college for electrical engineering degrees or at least enrolled in some electronics vocational class at their high school. Now I'm lucky to find someone who can look at a flashlight and tell me what batteries it takes. ------------------ Tom's Money Pit This message has been edited by tblasing on 04-20-2002 at 10:59 PM

Mike- BGW makes an animal that just may fill the bill. Take a look at this. http://www.bgw.com/metals/specifications.asp#VentPanels Just scroll down till you see fans. Good luck! ------------------ Tom's Money Pit This message has been edited by tblasing on 04-23-2002 at 09:19 PM

If you do decide to do some mods to this BRAND NEW CAR may I suggest you consult SEMA (Specialty Equipment and Manufacturers Association) first. If a modification is/was the cause of a direct failure someplace else (i.e- an outbord turbo timer wired incorrectly just fried the ECU) then the warranty is useless. Don't get me wrong, I did a few hide-em go-fast-goodies to my 94' Talon when I first got it. Oh hell, I drove it straight from the dealer to my house and put in a Borla exhaust, K&N air filter (a must for any internal combustion engine) and NGK platinum plugs which were all just waiting for it in my garage. Couldn't wait till the engine cooled so torquing the plugs wouldn't hurt the aluminum head. I thought about those mods very carefully too before installing them. Checked with SEMA and none of them had an adverse effect on the warranty, though the guys at the dealer did grumble a little bit since there was nothing they could do. I think it had something to do with all of those new parts were "ware items". It was later on I ported the exhaust manifold myself. But man does this thing sound good for having no turbo, no nitrous oxide, supercharger or any other forced induction. Oh yea, and a auto-transmission (left knee problems from a former pro-skateboarding career). So treat it like a pair of Klipsch's, "Easy does it". ------------------ Tom's Money Pit

Well guys, I think we have him hooked now. Nows the time to start spending some real money! M00n. can you say endless little tweaks and add-ons that never seem to end? Take it from somebody who spent half of last year's salary on a modest two-channel system. $15k later there are still things I'd like to do, but I'm trying to back off. Seems I decided I like to have a new car. Can you say Chrysler 300M Special? I may be a bit young for such a ride (oh hell, I'm 36) but it is a rocket powered couch. Have fun!! ------------------ Tom's Money Pit

That means if a part goes bad you'll have to send it to where you bought it then they send it to Klipsch for a replacement who sends the replacement to where you bought it who sends it to you. That's providing the place you bought it from bought it from an authorized dealer. If not, just insert another "supplier's storefront" to go through till every link in the chain sees it. By the way figure on three days to a week for each exchange between links in the chain. Sounds like a long time to get a new tweeter diaphram doesn't it? If you get the product from an authorized dealer you just call Klipsch and they will send you a replacement. They'll ask for a credit card number to insure that they'll get the broken part back. When you get it just send the old part to Klipsch and all is forgotten. That takes about two days. Warranty replacement parts are sent out usually Overnight if not Next Day Air. ------------------ Tom's Money Pit This message has been edited by tblasing on 04-12-2002 at 09:28 PM

Who knows?? Did you ever hear the story about the Cobbler that couldn't afford to buy his own wares. ------------------ Tom's Money Pit

Ray, Yea, I'm not getting a connection with the site(s). ------------------ Tom's Money Pit

It's hard to say if it is or not. The best way is to ask the seller about it. The answer sould not have any gray-area, double talk or misleading words. It sould a definite Yes or No. Beware though, there are only one or two sellers of Klipsch products over the internet where Klipsch will honor the warranty. Granted if the warranty cannot be honored by Kipsch then it's up to the seller (assuming it's a business) to warrant them if it is a new stocked item. So, if the seler says the product has a full warranty then the question should be "With who??". The best way to find that out if the seller is an "Authorized Dealer" is to check it out on Klipsch's web site. To find out if they have been refurbished or not is to call tech support to see if there are any decals (I know, those can be removed by the dishonest seller) or other marks that may give that indication. ------------------ Tom's Money Pit This message has been edited by tblasing on 04-12-2002 at 09:23 PM

That round thing with the red wire is called a coil. You can probably talk to Trey at tech support to find out where it goes. ------------------ Tom's Money Pit

Glad to see my (your) Quartets are doing the job well. O.k. so they weren't mine. But I did introduce you three.... ------------------ Tom's Money Pit

That deserves a good thrashing upon an empty beer can with your "big iron" (Bob Munden word)!! ------------------ Tom's Money Pit This message has been edited by tblasing on 04-10-2002 at 06:54 PM

If there is a level control on each amp try this. Put a pink noise signal through your system with both amps connected the way you described. Now get a multi-meter and measure the amount of AC voltage between the bottom speaker posts at the speaker. Now do the same for the upper posts. Now adjust the amp driving the HF drivers to equal that of the reading at the bottom pair. There still may be some tonal differences this way but the only way to clear that up is to use two of the exact same amps for both HF and LF. Have you ever thought about bi-wiring instead? I did for my 20's with a Rotel RB1080 (underated @ 200wpc) and some MIT Terminator 2 Bi-wire speaker cables (Audio Advisor has them half off list) and this thing has some major punch and bass extension. The mids are very natural and never protruding. The highs actually ahve to be backed off into a cut in eq. once in a while. Hope this helps!! ------------------ Tom's Money Pit

quote: Originally posted by jhawk92: I have taken my one and only elk with my Winchester M70 in 30.06. That wouldn't happen to be a pre-64' M70 would it? Those are worth a mint!! ------------------ Tom's Money Pit This message has been edited by tblasing on 04-09-2002 at 09:43 AM

I would say that before you decide which should run HF and which for LF do this. Be sure each has an out level adjustment. Since your dealing with two different amps they have different characteristics as far as output level with X-amount of input. For example: If the volume control is at, say, 9 o'clock. One amp may be putting out .75 of a watt while the other may be at 1.25 watts. A pretty good tonal mismatch. ------------------ Tom's Money Pit This message has been edited by tblasing on 04-09-2002 at 08:21 AM

quote: Originally posted by TheEAR: Where are the Bazookas and GE Vulcan minigunns?I know some of you hide heavy duty gear.Any hand grenades?How about surplus from operation Desert Storm? Does an empty shell casing from a 105mm Howitzer count? Or a dummy 20mm? Seriously, everything I have, either bought or self built, is totally legal and fits into the description of being Class 1 Firearms. I don't like the government walking into my house whenever they want to so they can inspect any Class 3 stuff (full auto). Not saying that the knowledge isn't there.... Now where did I put that foaminated mercury.... Of course those of you in England hear the Bobbys saying stuff like "Stop! Or I'll say "Stop" again!". ------------------ Tom's Money Pit This message has been edited by tblasing on 04-09-2002 at 03:25 PM

JM- Here's a link to your BAR Browning Automatic Rifle M1918 . It's a nice little project to get a weapon of that age to its original condition. Mind you that an overwhelming majority of guns like that had serial numbers on EVERY PART. IF no the whole number then just the last coule of characters. Once you do get it back together, PLEASE!! DON'T FIRE IT!! That's not from a value standpoint but a safety one. Ammunitions and metal quality back then isn't nearly what it is today. Ammo is loaded hotter and metal in now alot stronger. If you do want to fire it, take it to a well respected gunsmith of even send it to Browning for an inspection and tell them your intensions. Who knows, they may have a load combination that you can hand load yourself. But please be carefull. Those guys in WWI must have had some serious arm muscles!! That thing weighs a ton!! Reminds me of the movie Kelly's Heroes (I know, different war) where Don Rickles has to carry the 30 cal. That was great!! As for the bullet tax, how can the government assure us that the bullets used to shoot people are taxed? I would say that if a gun is stolen and used for such things then I would deduce that the ammo was stolen too. Yes, if the ammo is stolen from someone that bought ammo and paid the tax then it's not enforecable. But if the ammo was tolen for a store, does that mean the shooter will be charged with tax evasion?? Startin' to sound like Al Capone is back in town. ------------------ Tom's Money Pit This message has been edited by tblasing on 04-08-2002 at 03:21 PM

John- Yes, we had one or two of the Satin Nickel Colts, had kind of a yellowish tint to the finish to them. I almost bought one of the early Mustangs in .380 but our security chief snatched it up before I could get the cash. My favorite was one of those very limited editions called and Elite IX. It was almost along the lines of an Heirloom finish. I remember when the first write-ups on the NEW Glock 17 and the Ruger P-85's were published. I couldn't take too much of these customers screaming "When you gettin' um'!!". Gun mags and manufacturers just love to create an insane amount of public want, especially when the product won't be avaliable for six months. .357 Remington Maximum was as big as I would want to go, with the exception on 45ACP. It looks like you need a faster burning powder that won't exceed the CUP pressures to the point when the primers start backing out of the casings. Or even the hottest CCI primer out there. Time to break out the Hornady, Barnes or Speer loading manuals! It was quite a learning experience running the Firearms Dept. for that store. I learned more about World History than any class I attended. For instance, the Browning P-35 Hi-Power was the only handgun that was regular issue to troops on both sides of the war known as WWII. This was from Belgium being taken over by either side what seemed like every other week! Also that the Kieser had a handgun specially designed to fit his hand. Unfortunatly it didn't fit too many others since he had Polio (look for the Broomhandle Mauser). The more and more you look, the more interesting it gets! ------------------ Tom's Money Pit This message has been edited by tblasing on 04-09-2002 at 09:40 AM