pzannucci

They look to be in very good condition. Thanks for the pics.

Somebody kept the k-horn bass horn and mid horn and updated all the components and crossover. Not sure why they used the AK-2 since it is a 500hz mid horn but maybe it works well enough or all that was on hand. I would have thought AB type if done at the factory, instead.

Also keep an eye out for the Akai RPM500. I was able to get them for $99 each. Excellent powered monitors, killer for the price if you get them on sale.

What do the woofers on the Chorus speakers look like? I have been wondering since I see the grill cloth in the shape it is. Can you provide pictures with the grills removed? Thanks.

This is my setup for digital, I have 4 Hard drives all external with 29000 files can move it to any pc use my external Metrum Octave and the PC clock and dac are out of the loop it is just a transport for the files Which is why I am dubious about the file transport affecting SQ, The DAC has its own clock and does all the conversion on board Precisely. The data does have to go through a computer to get to the DAC (something has to suck or receive the bits - also send for that matter unless it is just a simple bus). That's why spending all that money on something like the drives is questionable. Guess I need to move off winamp to J-River. i7-3770 with tons of storage should be able to keep up with the transfer. Not totally quiet but most fans have been pulled from a Sonata case and not necessarily using a wired connection to the DAC. Muel, You are correct. You need to choose wisely, especially if you are using USB. As for a hard drive or SSD to attach, it is much simpler if you do stay away from USB and interrupt latency to other stuff on the bus. Doesn't need to be mega buck.

You are sounding like a salesman. Not sure you are answering joesportster's questions on what type of pc, type of transport, power supply, drive configuration, or connection, It is good you can justify to yourself the money spent though. Now if I could only do the same a little more quickly about a 2016 z06 I am about to order.

Looking at the TotalDac site, sounds very good but the prices on some of the stuff like the SSD is way out in left field. I guess it's any easy way for them and others to separate money from an audiophile, which from too many magazine articles, think that for the average person, a 10k set of speakers is relatively inexpensive.

Only way to know is to ask Klipsch or test it with something like WT-3 / DATS v2

I'll part with my DVD-3910

The same chip, ES9018 say, will sound the same but the analog section and chip usage (the same chip can sound different due to different usage). The Sabre chips have their own volume control and voltage output required to not have outboard op-amps. They also have different filters built in so depending on how much you move off the chip to another digital or analog circuit, the sound will change accordingly. Some use multiple DAC chips to achieve other requirements such as lower noise floor. If you compare two chips, ES9018 and Ti 1796, these will also sound different at the chip level and due to associated analog back end. Let's not bring up the fact of native DSD.... DAC differences are typically subtle but noticeable. It all will have to do with the downstream equipment, type of connections, features such as upsampling or NOS, and your wallet which one you will be happy with. I currently own three, Anthem AVM-30 (processor), Emotiva XDA-2, and Essence HDACC (I've had others also). They all have their place and sound. No DSD but at least HDMI and USB2 on the HDACC.

1. the more expensive, typically the prettier the jewelry. 2. Analog output section is a major issue as stated above 3. Filter topography - steep or minimum phase or apodizing, etc ..... 4. Chipset and number of bits / sample rate 5. Over sampling / Up sampling vs Non-oversampling 6. No chip such as the Sabre 32 but all the filter and conversion done in silicone large scale / programmable 7. Direct conversion such as NAD / Ti I believe All the above can have something to do with the sound quality, even the jewelry. So bits might be bits, but there are a lot of things that can have an effect on the overall presentation and sound. The thing is that the changes are not typically huge like changing loudspeakers or room treatments. Figure out where you want spend your money. The last 5-10%.

The Forte II is probably the most balanced speaker Klipsch made. Minor mods such as tweeter diaphragm and crossover clean up are about the only things that should be done. As far as the woofer, the cooper colored woofers are nice but the 12" you have can't be replaced adhoc. Klipsch's efficient speakers with a 12" cerametalic don't exist, only in powered subs (not efficient). Leave them alone and enjoy knowing you already have a sleeper.

I need the new diaphragms, Moray. Matthews, This is nothing like the process in a K77. The diaphragm screws into the back of the horn. All you do is remove the leads and unscrew the screws and replace. As Moray said, Simply Speakers also has diaphragms if Bob is out. D-417 for the one Moray hates or D-K100ti for the Titanium.

The cut off will also have to do with the growth rate. I believe the KLF horns are 703 indicating a 700hz cut off. What is the number for the CF3/4 horn? That number should indicate cutoff.

The tweeters in the KLF 30s are reasonably robust. They are used in many other Klipsch speakers with similar network topography. I would be looking at what was done on the crossover upgrade or at the upstream components unless you are listening in a very large room at very loud levels.

Good receivers are typically Swiss army knives, sound good but not up to par with many separates. My Pioneer sounds good as a pre/dac but for some reason I feel it is missing something and not as clean as other pre/dacs I've used, nor the new Essence HDACC. Mind you this is using HDMI which I am trying to live with so I don't need a bunch of other wiring. The HDACC will likely become a bedroom unit to use with a set of powered speakers I have and look to possibly another dac if I sway from HDMI. My Anthem AV-30 does a pretty go job though no HDMI. Most of these dacs, such as the Benchmark, don't include analog until they get up into the $1700 or so category though the DAC1 HDR closeout at $1295 is interesting. My thoughts are the perfect dac should not have pre-ringing in the impulse response and minimal post ringing and connections for all the digital interfaces. The new Meridian Director seems to fit that bill rather nicely for a cheap $349. No HDMI on most all the dacs though. Oh well, too many toys and not enough money

Or you can purchase a really high quality used receiver or surround decoder, for Peanuts, and use it as your Digital Preamp with lots of interfaces. 120 db SN is not unusual. Pioneer Elites come to mind, just turn off the speaker outputs using the front panel. You also get standing wave cancelling, auto EQ and other room adjustments in the package. Like me, if you have an old school 2 ch pure analog system, run all of the digital stuff through the surround receiver, and the tape decks, radios and phono through the analog pre amp. Or ditch your analog preamp and use the surround receiver as your preamp, you even get a remote volume control. Most have plenty of analog interface and you can get a great phono pre amp for not much $$$ Bubo, If I showed you a picture of my setup, a newer Pioneer SC receiver is sitting behind this dac/preamp. I was using the pre-outs on it since I wanted something that did HDMI. I purchased this DAC to see how much of a difference there was between DAC chip sets and the receiver with the built in DAC. I would almost say the Pioneer sounds better using it's own internal amps than the XPA-2 I had it hooked up to. Haven't tried the receiver with my Bel Canto REF1000s yet though. I agree with you that you could have your cake and eat it too (almost). The separates do sound better though, including this Essence HDACC (or my Anthem) than using the Pioneer and most likely most other receivers. The pre-outs on many receivers are good but may not be up to snuff based on the other equipment down the line. This DAC is pretty good, considering the Sabre es9012 built in and also give you USB which you don't find in many receivers under 2K.

I just purchased the Essence HDACC http://www.essenceelectrostatic.com/ I was looking for a DAC that could do HDMI and substitute as a pre-amp with remote and analog input. It contains the Sabre ES9012 DAC and is quite good sounding for $499 though isn't broken in yet. Nice part is that if you have blu-rays you can use HDMI to get the high res PCM from them if you don't want to use a receiver or don't have a very expensive pre/pro.

Wouldn't the easiest way to view the effective cone area of a horn (most simple terms), Effective cone area = the mouth size that can support the frequency with the best acoustic load, lowest acoustic reactance value. As the horn unloads lower in frequency, the effective cone area drops to close to zero just below the electrical fs of the driver? Basically frequency dependent based on the size and growth of the horn. Probably dumb but . Since the horn is an acoustic transformer, it actually lowers the pressure at the mouth so definitely doesn't correlate to the normal concept of effective radiating area of a standard driver.

So the issue was too much bass in reference to the mid/treble output. This is where voicing and E/Q come in. An art of modifying the output to be balanced and smooth as required. The change in the crossover will help minimize E/Q for a driver if the output is tailing off at that frequency. Additionally changing the location of the crossovers will usually clean up the drivers output across the band if you are stressing the driver and pushing it to it's limits (or you are in a high distortion area) in that particular frequency range. In speaker voicing and design, everything is relative to each other. Too much bass, too much treble, too in your face, that just indicates required eq. Distortion many times indicates poor crossover locations or slope/Q.

Sounds like the smart thing to do. Less stuff to deal with possibly impeding performance. Good luck!!

Is there possibly throttling in the range extender? It could be managing the speed for all wireless devices since possibly the controller forwarding the packets isn't up to the task. If you look at the different wireless routers, not just range extenders, they usually will also show you their possible performance based on subjective load. Again this is relative but wired should always be faster since there is a significant lessening of the overhead and lack of encryption (which may have something to do with it).

If your laptop has to be close to your wireless router otherwise it drops speed, what makes you think that your range extender isn't dropping speed? Is the range extender sitting right next to your wireless router? If yes then there must be a significant amount of overhead in the wireless transmission. If your range extender is far away, such as mine, 40 feet and through several walls from the router then a drop in speed is expected. Probably lucky to get 50% signal. I currently use Buffalo AGN300N boxes on my networks which are wireless receivers and ethernet connected to devices such as AVR and remote computers. They handle streaming TimeWarner and Xfiniity (live tv no less) very well and one of them a good 60 feet with walls between. Great for hooking up AVRs without wireless or high powered computers (non-laptops) to the network remotely. I currently use Netgear WRN2000 range extenders for other uses. There is usually a fare drop in performance but I always considered that to be a proximity issue. Lower signal strength means more re-transmits. Best way to do it is to use a second wireless router with ethernet wired into your primary router. Move that new wireless router to a new location (wired to first) in the other location house for better reception. Performance will increase significantly. IMO.

Boomy in reference to what? That is why you now need to build a crossover (or electronic) to match levels of the components. Get a good test disk or use an RTA to find out where your frequency response has issues. It may very well be the new box has a higher efficiency. Worst case, poor response due to design, location, or woofer choice.

I'm not sure if anyone has actually read anything on Chord products but apparently they are very good (not another mystery box or anything). Maybe not in my price range for a stand alone dac but.... Based on the Chord site the 2qute is based on the QuteEX. They state: " In keeping with the rest of Chord’s DAC range, the QuteEX doesn’t use an off-the-shelf DAC chip - instead, the clever guys at Chord use a bespoke, programmable circuit, which they customise to provide the best digital-to-analogue conversion possible. Read more at http://www.whathifi.com/chord/qute-ex/review#dUq4IesKrcZ5zZQ7.99 " I guess custom logic commands a price. I'd like to hear one against the new PS Audio NuWave or NAD M51 for that matter.