JohnA

The AL-3s were developed with a slightly different woofer (round magnet supposedly with a higher Fs) and a different squawker (K-55-M, supposedly about 1 dB hotter). The AL-3 has steeper crossover slopes and some woofer and tweeter eq. While it can't hurt to try, I'll bet the AL-3 will not be so nice with -V squawker and the older square magnet woofers. Were I you, I'd add an inductor to the squawker like the attached schematic and change the tweeter to a B&C DE120 based tweeter. If you like La Scalas, you will surely like them this way. You can even place the tweeter on top of the cabinet over the squawker to time align the HF. I am running DE120s on Fastrac tweeter horns. They're sweet and silky.

Are just a troll? Do you complain about a free lunch? Your comments are more than unfair. Steel, stamped or otherwise is among the stiffest of metals, 3x stiffer than Aluminum, and is the normal material for woofer baskets. The cabinet does not need a 2x4 to prevent "caving in", but like all materials the wood may need to be stiffer. Why pay to rip a 2x4 when it fits as is? Those hand wound, iron-core inductors are not low grade. Iron-core has lower resistance and a very tight magnetic field so there is little worry of one affecting another. Those film and foil capacitors are not "low grade". Little is gained from $700 silver foil caps.

Your CN-481s should work, but you might find you want to use a 2nd order high-pass for the squawker and, in the case of a K-horn, no woofer low-pass at all.

Mr. Paul used to say something like, "bragging about how much power your speakers need, is like bragging about how much gasoline your car can burn." I remember when Blose used to brag that their 901s [gag] could be plugged into a 120V wall socket and survive the 3600 watts applied. Assessing quality by the amount of power a speaker can absorb without bursting into flames is wrong and a fundamental misunderstanding of speakers. Better to brag (if that were really necessary) about how little power your speakers need (re: mpg) because that is a small indication of the low distortion levels they likely produce. High efficiency means small cone movements that closely track the music without adding anything.

Strength and ease of assembly. Cut that corner and your glue joint will be thin and your nails will have nothing much to hold. It you are looking to change it, make fairing strips to fill the step down to the "roof" and smooth the joint. Listen with and without them. They will be more easily added and glued after completion of the bass horn.

Babadono has a good point, but a DIY tester would have some trouble separating the direct sound from the source from the reflected sound from panel. I believe the test is sufficient to identify differences, because sound will pass through the panel to the wall and reflect back through the panel into the room. I devised a panel design with A/C duct board, but then never built them because, curtains, carpet, furniture and acoustic tile made a dead room.

I, too, would not recommend you buy a Behringer. I've had excess trouble with the bits I've bought. You should notice better focus when the system is time aligned, so do it! Try the Behringer to get a feel, it's free. But you should buy better. I've heard a system running a Xilica. It was nice.

Very nice find!

Give them some time. My new Heresy IVs were much better after 3 days of bass heavy music (dub step, actually) with all the bass boost I could find (but not that loud and with the door shut). 🤣 The woofers are stiff when new and their suspensions loosen with time. They did not change after 5 days of such treatment. You just might be the poster from the most distant place!

$300 per for the conversion seems like a nice deal.

Look into Uship and ask that the seller or shipper wrap them in shipping blankets. Which Orange County are you in? At their typical value, I'd go get them if you're not in CA. And I might even then. They will both fit in the back of many SUVs. Mine fit in the back of my 2-door Explorer, sideways.

For clarity's sake, a subwoofer is a specialized speaker in a separate enclosure and rarely, to never, part of the main speaker. Full range speakers have *woofers*, not subwoofers, regardless of how deep they play. I cannot think of any Klipsch speaker system with two 15" drivers other than Pro/Cinema systems and subwoofers, and those did not have passive radiators.

Yes. You can connect your speaker wires to any red and any black, as long as the jumpers are installed and tight. No damage will occur without the jumpers, but you may not hear all the sound. Dual terminals are for bi-wiring; one set of wires for the woofer(s) and one set for the treble section. Some people believe that sounds better. At the least, it gives the equivalent of a single wire twice as big for lower resistance.

While I don't believe the truth is in a tube, you should look hard at McIntosh Integrateds, such as a MA230. A Mac will be easy on tubes and after a refurbishment will be rock reliable. https://www.ebay.com/itm/McIntosh-MA230-Tube-Integrated-Amplifier-excellent-condition/154152141513?hash=item23e42f02c9:g:qR4AAOSwbXhfjvXm You should be able to get in under your $3k limit.

It *is* a good price, but you can buy H IVs for several hundred less, shipped.

Check out Anthem electronics. Some look quite affordable and there is a dealer in Shanghai, if you can get up there.

That IS a returnable offense. The ones I've heard don't do that.

They were solid pieces. If you don't push them hard they sound nice, but if they clip, the sound is harsh and it takes some time to recover. 1979 was my last year of engineering school. I worked in a rock quarry during the summers to make money. While I wish I'd bought one of the bigger receivers, the SA-200 was a good portion of my earnings, that were intended to pay for school expenses. It powered a pair of Marantz Imperial 7s I'd bought a year, or 2 before and I had/have a Thorens TD-125 with Decca London International arm. Another guy in the dorm had a Mac preamp and an MC250 driving Large Advents. My nest door neighbor had Baby Advents. Fun times.

Julien, If your source is to be streamed audio, your Integrated amp choices are wide open. The quality of streamed audio is not normally high enough to challenge even mid-level audio gear. Still, I will recommend the best quality Yamaha, Marantz, or NAD and any Luxman, Parasound, Acurus and perhaps Rotel. You don't really need more then 50 watts/channel, as long as it is clean and has a relatively high damping factor (say 150 or more). McIntosh sells a 50 watt headphone integrated amp that just might be the BOMB for your setup

The ME Heresies haven't been sold, yet!?!? I considered them, but I'm glad I didn't wait this long.

If you want killer, clean up 2 pair of FH-1s. Fill them with JBL 2226H woofers and stack. Run in parallel with a K-402 top. $$$$, but should sound past sweet. Stacked, the small mouths reinforce each other.

I'm driving my H IVs with a refurbished Technics SA-300. I have an SA-200 I bought new in 1979 in the garage driving Auratone 5CTVs. And I have a Yamaha CR-820 waiting refurbishment to power my H IVs. All have silver faces! Yes, we like the old stuff here.

I had some Parasound amps with my 4 La Scalas. I had to turn down the input gain to the amps so I could run my pre/pro at higher gain and control hiss. That is the only purpose for the input gain on the power amp. There is NO ideal position. There is no point in looking for one. Any of the possible settings that allows the preamp and amp to reach the loudness you desire, is a good setting. You will never be able to tolerate the full power of that amp driving RF-7s.

Unless your receiver removes the signal from the internal power amp, it will work and cause no harm. You may not like the sound. I'd use spare amps for Atmos or some other surround channels.

"Braces" rarely carry actual load. They are intended to prevent the 1st fractional movement. "Braces" have no need for "strength". Most of the braces you see in a building of bridge are designed for 1/10th of the load in the braced member (just because) and enough stiffness for their length. You can get equivalent cabinet stiffness with much less material and weight. Light and stiff together means high resonant frequency. If you wrap an acoustic guitar with your knuckles, you don't get a bass knock in spite of its resonant chamber. ote I built this stand for my RV out of 1x2s. It is intended for sitting. It is rigid and surprisingly light. The joints are glued and air nailed. Two or 3 boxes from 1x2s with a "V" brace inside is all you need for your cabinet.