JohnA

Maybe one day I can learn French. It would help reading about Le Tour. It sounds like you may want to build a set of La Scala cabinets yourself. Beware of the German plans, they have some wrong dimensions. We all have our prefered combinations. Mine is K-33-E, K-55-V (AlNiCo) on K-400, and K-77-M used with a Type AA crossover. This was the typical configuration from about 1965 or so to 1981 (at least for the K-55-V). The K-77-M was standard from sometime in the late 70s to 2000. Q-man prefers K-33-E, K-55-M (ferrite "Mud") and K-77-M with a Type AL-3 crossover. This was the configuration for 1982 to 2000 with a change to the K-401 around 1990(?). The 2002 configuration is K-33-E, K-55-X (modern K-55-V) on K-401, and K-77-F (modern K-77-M). The K-55-X and K-77-F have about 1.5 dB less output than the older versions and require a different crossover. Klipsch is the only source for the newest drivers and I doubt that Klipsch will sell them since they are all needed for current production. Look at this ebay search for the parts you want. http://cq-search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?MfcISAPICommand=GetResult&query=klipsch*+-2.1+-4.1+-5.1&ht=1&itemtimedisp=0&st=2&SortProperty=MetaEndSort&BasicSearch=++

Don't do it! The newest crossover is redesigned to accomodate the new drivers that have about 1.5 dB less outout. Your La Scalas will become too bright if you go to the Type AL-4.

Other than Klipsch , the most reliable place to get horns ans drivers is ebay.com. There are several sets of horns and drivers for sale there now. The K-400/K-401 horn will be the most difficult to get. An altec 511B has a larger mouth but makes a good substitute. Some say better. The driver sets you want will be: K-33-E/K-55-V or K-55-M/K-77 or K-77-M. I doubt you will want the latest K-77-F, unless you can match it to the latest K-55-X squawker and correct crossover.

I like the SS-1s; I say buy them and be happy. Having matching speakers in your system helps create the illusion that you are seated in the middle of the action. It is not precisely required. I get very good performance from 4 La Scalas and a KLF-C7 for a center. With most people, money doesn't grow on trees and they must buy theor gear in stages. If you like the KG 3.5, keep them and add the SS-1s. If, later on, you find the KGs don't mesh well with the rest, replace them with SF-1s, but try it first. There's no reason the throw away good speakers. BTW, Don't forget a sub. I tried to get by without them for a while, but HT demands at least one. There is lots of bass energy you will miss without a specialized speaker just for it.

Josh, You're right, insofar as you go. However, the ear perceives 10 times the acoustic power as twice as loud. The ear's response is logarithmic, too.

Post pictures, We Wanna See!! Try to include a pic of the crossover, too.

The only difference between a Type AA and a Type A is the tweeter circuit. Specifically the Type A has only one capacitor and no KLiP protection. There sbould be NO DIFFERENCE in the bass and mids switching between the AA and A. The forgoing statement is void if the Type A is built with superior components like the one pictured above that Guy built. The Solen inductor alone should be a great improvement to the bass. My Type AAs were noticably improved by the Hovland caps in the tweeter circuit.

Those have the H II squawker but are otherwise H Is. They have been informally named H 1.5s around here.

LSBB is La Scala Birch Black. The r means 1977 and the first 9 and 10, is some sort of notation for the time of year. The last digits are the production sequence number. There is no worry about non-consecutive serial numbers; they are both alike. Perhaps in 1982, the year of the squawker change to K-55-M, non-consecutive numbers may indicate a mismatch. It would be obvious, though. The t means 1979.

Pland, Don't modify anything until you have listened to them for about 6 months. I'm asuming from the year that those have a Type AK crossover. It should be nearly identical to the Type AL I've had and dislike. If you want to stay with Klipsch, parts, call and order the Type AK-3. It's the latest for your driver set and is said to sound VERY good. If you want to roll your own, or want to try the ALK crossovers, search the forum archives. Don't use a Type A (or derivations of it) with a high powered amp; say over 40 watts. I like the Type AA, especially if the caps are changed to Hovland Musicaps. I have a pair of ALKs for my La Scalas and they are superb, sound well integrated and clear. They will be a great match for your K-horns. Another hot mod is to damp the squawker and tweeter horns. You can use rope caulk from Home Depot for both, or use Dynamat on the squawker horn as I did. The consensus here is that either works as well as the other. I stuffed the top of my La Scalas with polyester fiberfil. It reduces the hollow knock it has and perhaps some cabinet resonances. For a K-horn, you need to ensure the cabinet fits tight into the corner and seals and that the walls are plenty stiff. A stiff corner may be a multi-day winter project, but the seal to the walls is easliy accomplished with some weather stripping on the tailboard. Make sure your baseboards and shoe molding doesn't hold the cabinet away from the wall. Work to make your electronics as good as the speaker. It is notorious for showing all flaws on the system.

circumspect (s�r�kem-sp�kt�) adjective Heedful of circumstances and potential consequences; prudent. - circumspectly adverb The American Heritage� Dictionary of the English Language, Third Edition copyright � 1992 by Houghton Mifflin Company. Electronic version licensed from InfoSoft International, Inc. All rights reserved.

Unless they used black powder, yours can be repaired. Call 1-800-KLIPSCH on Monday and ask for Trey or Matt. Otherwise, start shopping ebay.

I had IEsux completely removed from this machine until I installed Turbo Tax. Then, I just gave up. I don't use it, I use Mozilla, do I still need the patch? I don't trust MS and their patches. I don't have XP either, precisely because we have it at work and it is awful! We still get blue screens as often as with 95/98. Mine crashed 3 times in the first 2 hours I had it! It had been a rock steady PC under 98SE.

That would have been about the company's 40th aniversary.

Rudy, 50 watts into a pair of Belles results in 124 dB, if you're 1 meter from both of them! Loudness increases 3 dB for each doubling of power and 10 dB for 10 times the power. 100 watts is +20 dB. 105 dB is LOUD!!! I listen to my La Scalas at 80 to 85 dB most of the time, or at 1/100th of a watt. Belles are rated the same as La Scalas or 104 dB at 1 watt at 1 meter. 30 to 70 watts into Belles would be a comfortable listening level in a football stadium! John

Speed3 huh? What year and color? After 10 years away, I bought an '02 Sprint RS this summer. It's been great fun. I'm about to become the local RAT Pack leader, too. i hope I can see what I'm getting into!

I guess I'd need to know more about his hobbies and desires. For mine, I've marked John Prine CDs and DVD (http://www.ohboy.com/) and a Triumph Tank Bag. How about a cordless drill/screw driver. Can't live without mine (for real!). The whole set of Clint Eastwood spagetti westerns on DVD? A personal "watchman" color TV?

I recommend the Type AL-3s because they should sound WAAY better than the ALs and a lot like the ALKs, but with very good tweeter protection that doesn't sound harsh when it works, unlike the KLiP circuit in the Type AAs.

Nah. It's just you. Dave Sucks on the old Heritage stuff.

That is an outstanding performance and recording. One of my all time favorites! Listen for the brushes in "'Cause We've Ended as Lovers". John

Look at the graph of the power vs distortion curve on the Marantz. Your Belles will be operating entirely in the vertical portion of the curve along the left axis. The distortion is quite high there. A 250 watt amp will probably be even worse. It would be a complete waste with Belles. I'd look for a 30 to 50 watt Class A power amp like the Monarchy(?). John

They look to be identical to the theater La Scala Type ALs. I'd reuse the wood plate, terminal strip and autoformer. The rest of that stuff has to go! If you intend to use them as portable sound reinforcement, I think I'd buy a set of Klipsch Type AL-3s. If not, turn your into Type ALKs ot Type AAs. John

EJ, I believe you can use some of the parts of you Type ALs to make Type AAs. That's what I'd do. I'd also use better caps and inductors when doing it. John

With grilles, OBM and as nice as they look, they ought to bring at least $1500. If I could see tham to verify they are in fact that pristine and wanted a pair, I'd give $2000 for a set like that. They were about $2800 new.

Vampire Wire Silver Clad copper for 2-channel and phono and OFC copper for all the rest. John