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Everything posted by JohnA

  1. Without the serial number there is no way to date them accurately. The K-77-M was used beginning in the late 70s and the Type AA was used through 1981 with a K-55-V squawker. The -V has a round softball sized grey cover over its AlNiCo magnet, not square. With the known changes, there is no telling what year they were made, even the K-77-M could be an update. If the K-77-M is original, I'd say 1977 to 1981. John
  2. I got mine from Home Depot in the weather stripping section. Just mash it onto the outside of the horn like silly putty. Use 2 layers. John
  3. The serial number might be stamped into the edge of the plywood on the rear of the cabinet. The Type AA network is pre-82, but Klipsch didn't use square squawker drivers in La Scalas. The rectangular magnet tweeter is correct (K-77-M). John
  4. Actually, Y'all have it backward. The power amps should be turned on last (and off first) to keep turn-on (and turn-off) thumps from the pre-amp from damaging your speakers. In the 70s and 80s the gear demanded it. My ACT-3 is well behaved and doesn't need to be treated that way. This does not apply the receivers and integrated amps because the speaker protection circuits wait until the thumps are gone before connecting the speakers. The preamp section of my old Yamaha CA-800 integrated was terrible. When using 125 watt power amps and my La Scalas, the windows would rattle. John
  5. Putting the second one 3' out of the corner will not hurt. Having the subs in different placed tends to cancel room nodes and WILL prevent both of them from reinforcing the nodes your room already has. With 2 subs in different places you will have fewer peaks and troughs in the bass response. I have mine behind the mains and in the corners. However one corner is 90 deg. and the other one is 100 deg. John
  6. I'm using a KLF-C7 with my 4 La Scalas. It is not quite a perfect match, but it is very good and fits on top of the RPTV well. I'm pleased with the results. John
  7. Klipsch IS sitting in a certian number of them for warranty and repair. After EV quit making them Klipsch wa able to buy K-77-Ms from a "friend" of Klipsch, that bought the tooling, for some years. I don't know what happened to that relationship, if anything. John
  8. Crutchfield has the highest prices going. Sometimes they are above MSRP. I will buy car audio from them, especially if it is on sale, because their techs are knowledgeable and that carry a great set of harness adapters so you don't have to cut up your factory wiring harness. I don't care if they carry Klipsch because it'll be priced too high. John
  9. Your dealer is yanking your chain. Klipsch will surely rebuild your tweeter for less than $200, probably less than $100. Technology has not changed so much that KG4s cannot be the bassis for a great HT system, if you want them to be. John
  10. Klipsch can recone the drivers for about $75. I don't know if Orange County speaker Repair can do it. Give tham a call. As to your crossovers, Klipsch used different suppliers over the years. I'm sure the values are the same in each Type AA. The parts Klipsch used are very durable, so, unless you are hearing a problem, you don't have any bad components. Unless you are redesigning the crossovers, you should replace the caps and inductors with ones of equal value. John
  11. Merry Christmas to you, too! John
  12. Q-man, I've got 125 wpc amps and I'm concerned about that wattage, too. Maybe for different reasons, though. twenty years ago it was a common occurance that high power amps were dirty and noisy at low output. Soundcraftsman and the GAS Ampzilla were perfect examples. I don't know if modern amps exhibit the same traits, but I suspect they do, at least a little. try to listen to the Cinepro with the provision you can return it if you're not satisfied. Try to listen to Aragon amps. Though powerful, I believe all of them operate in Class A up to 10% or better of their rating and then Class AB up to their rated capacity. You should be able to buy Aragon for the price of McIntosh. I've listened to them on other speakers, but not my own. John
  13. There are tweaks on the BBS if you're interested, but there is nothing you need to do but play them some more, unless there is something wrong woth them. John
  14. There could also be something in the chamber between the woofer cone and the slot that opens into the bass horn. Sometimes I will hear a chestyness or extra bassiness to male vocals (listen to either od Seal's CDs). That is a resonance in the bass horn. You can feel the sides vibrating at that same frequency. Other than that, I get no unusual sounds from my La Scalas. John
  15. It won't cause any damage, try it! John
  16. The Klipschorn, Belle and La Scala are currently out of production. Klipsch is looking for new squawker drivers and maybe new tweeters. You might find a new pair in a warehouse somewhere or by dealer transfer. Ebay is also a pretty good place to look for used ones. I'd drive to where ever to pick them up if I bought a used pair. They're too valuable to risk in shipping. Now that Tweeter has opened in Hamilton Place, you could try to see if they can find you a new set. They are pretty big Klipsch customers. I want to get over there myself. If I bought used, I'd be looking for the late 70s/early 80s models. They have the solder terminal K-55-V squawker and the ceramic magnet tweeter. This is my favorite configuration. The latest models with the K-55-M MAY be smoother in the midrange, and my La Scalas with those squawkers don't sound much different from the ones with the -Vs, but for some reason I prefer the -Vs. If you buy a set with Type AK networks in them, plan on replacing the Type AK. The Type AK/AB/AL network was the first one used with the K-55-M begining in 1982. It is essentially the same as the Type AL and should sound just as awful. ALK networks or Klipsch Type AK-3 would be a good upgrade. I have a pair of the ALKs and love them. When was the last time you heard the Klipsch Heritage series? John
  17. He's not asking about a computer monitor. He's asking about audio gear. I don't know the answer to his question. I'd think the best place to ask is a McIntosh dealer. John
  18. The BBS is full of discussions about tweaks. Search the Updating and Odds & Mods sections for damping and tweaks. John
  19. I think the Type AL-3 is a pretty good design. It has a pair of wires that must be cut for bi-wiring. I have a schematic of it, but it is too big for the Forum. I'll try e-mailing you a copy. John
  20. Which Network do you have? The Type AL-3 was designed to make bi-wiring easy. The rest will be harder but not impossible. John
  21. That sounds a lot like a bad, or misaligned diaphragm. John
  22. The K-43 woofer is what you want. It is designed to be used with the back air chamber volume and the slot size in the throat of the horn. It is sometimes said to have 2 or 3 dB more output than the K-33. John This message has been edited by John Albright on 12-07-2001 at 01:34 PM
  23. Start off by using the original crossover slopes. I don't know which squawker you have, but for the K-55-V and Type AA network, the bass is rolled off at 6 dB/octave above 400 Hz, the squawker is rolled in at 6 dB/octave above 400, has no upper roll off and the tweeter is rolled in at about 18 dB/octave above 6000 Hz. I say about because the high pass filter on the tweeter is not an ideal Butterworth. It has a "bump" in the response of a dB or so at 6k. I believe this is an attemp to EQ the system and make up for the K-55-V's falling response at 6K. The K-55-M doesn't fall off at 6k like the -V does so I believe the networks for that driver roll off at 12 dB/octave above 6k. John
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