pite

at least he's honest about putting it in the description.

Many Congratulations !! They're worth every penny !!!

hmmm... I'm mostly at -55dB... sometimes at -40dB... Let's see how long !!!

hmmm... Interesting... I thought the comparison was between RF-82 II and RF-3 II speakers... So, here's what on the paper !! RF-82 II Enhanced 1" titanium Linear Travel Suspension horn-loaded tweeter (from Description tab) Frequency Response: 33Hz-24KHz ± 3dB SENSITIVITY: 98dB @ 2.83V / 1m POWER HANDLING: 150W RMS / 600W Peak NOMINAL IMPEDANCE: 8 Ohms compatible Low Frequency Driver: Dual 8" (20.3cm) Cerametallic cone woofers HIGH FREQUENCY CROSSOVER: 1400Hz ENCLOSURE TYPE: Bass-reflex via dual rear-firing ports INPUTS: Dual binding posts / bi-wire / bi-amp HEIGHT: 43.9" (111.4cm) with feet WIDTH: 9.3" (23.5cm) DEPTH: 16.3" (41.4cm) with grille WEIGHT: 61.5lbs (27.9 kg) FINISHES: Black Ash woodgrain vinyl Built From: 2010 RF-3 II Frequency Response: 37Hz-20kHz (+-)3dB SENSITIVITY: 98dB @ 1watt/1meter POWER HANDLING: 150 watts maximum continuous (600 watts peak) NOMINAL IMPEDANCE: 8 ohms TWEETER: K-124-K 1" (2.54cm) Titanium dome compression driver HIGH FREQUENCY HORN: 6" square 90(o)x60(o) Tractrix® Horn WOOFER: Two K-1083-SB 8" (20.32cm) Cerametallic® cone / cast polymer frame ENCLOSURE MATERIAL: Medium density fiberboard construction (MDF) ENCLOSURE TYPE: Bass reflex via rear-mounted port DIMENSIONS: 38.5" (97.8cm) x 9" (22.9cm) x 16.2" (41cm) WEIGHT: 56 lbs. (25.5kg) FINISHES: Black ash vinyl veneer Built From: 2001 BUILT UNTIL: 2003 Seems pretty comparable specifications, except the bass is bit deeper and high are bit higher in the case of RF-82 II. Unless you have good ears, not sure if you're going to hear 24khz while in the case of bass you'll certainly experience. Make sure, you move them around until you find a best spot for all-around sound. Objectively i.e. Technically, it all boils down to the transducers, crossovers and cabinetry dimensions/construction in terms of performance. Subjectively i.e. Pleasing to one's ear is very individual, which we must respect. Forget about all this technical crap !! When you get them, compare to the remembered experience of RF-3 II and tell us how RF-82 II sounds II.

congratulations !! Let us know how did they sound compared to RF-3s. Let's hope them to sound comparable if not better !!

most of the online games where players play in alliances/factions typically create a room on Groupme or similar chat rooms and share information much quicker. No one share their real identity for obvious reasons, so for example, we could go with our forum names and touchbase much quicker. In case of the game, leader along with the officers maintains the agreed upon quality of the discussions (e..g PG, G, etc. level for pictures, language, etc.). Something similar as in the moderator structure can be followed.

- General info regarding HDMI 1.4 and type of cable (standard speed or high speed) http://www.cnet.com/news/still-more-reasons-why-all-hdmi-cable-are-the-same/ - Active cable http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=9431&seq=1&format=2 However, before buying a new cable, I would connect the projector and receiver with known-good High-Speed HDMI cable (6-10ft) and see that it works all the time. Good luck man!

I simply envy you now !!! Of course kidding... Nice gear man...

(1) TX-NR5008 THX Ultra2 Plus Certified 3-D Ready 9.2 Channel Network Receiver http://www.onkyousa.com/Products/model.php?m=TX-NR5008&class=Receiver HDMI Version V1.4a (supports 3D video and Audio Return Channel) (2) Panasonic PT-AE8000U http://www.panasonic.com/business/projectors/PT-AE8000U.asp Scanning Frequency - HDMI: 480p, 576p, 720/60p, 720/50p, 1080/60i, 1080/50i, 1080/24p, 1080/60p, 1080/50p In case of Panasonic PT-AE8000U, it doesn't clearly say anywhere regarding HDMI type, but I can infer from the scanning frequency and "The PT-AE8000U full-HD 3D home theater projector....." that it's 1.4 or 1.4a type to facillitate variuos 3D formats. AE3000u: That seems to be a non-3D projector from circa 2008, potentially HDMI 1.3. Confirmation: http://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf/projector_spec_4506.pdf (page 2) Terminals: HDMI IN HDMI connector x 3, HDMI™ (V.1.3 with Deep Color, x.v.Color™* 7 ), HDCP compliant

Unfortunately, there was a period of time, when many manufacturers labeled/advertised their HDMI cables incorrectly.

Yes, you can try the order of turning the devices on, but, in reality, if HDMI specification is properly implemented then it shouldn't be the case. Since, I've never dealt with Onkyo I can't comment. I never have had an issue as in order of turning on the devices e.g. I turn on various devices such as Samsung TV, Sharp TV, HTPC, Denon SACD player, Denon DVD Player, Samsung Blu Ray player, Samsung DVD player as and when I wish. The interesting thing that I found from your link related the HDMI cable: Description return to top 40ft 24AWG CL2 Standard HDMI® Cable - Black A Standard HDMI® Cable from Monoprice is the only way to ensure that you have the ability to pass the standard signals authorized in the latest HDMI feature specification. The CL2 rating on this cable indicates that its outer jacket has been designed to burn more slowly, thereby making it safe for use inside or through the walls of residential classed buildings. The CL2 rating ensures that your cable installation complies with fire safety codes and insurance requirements. TIP: It is a good idea to test cables and connections before installing them inside a wall. If there are any issues or problems, we can help you resolve them before you spend the time, effort, and expense of installing them inside the walls. This cable supports the following HDMI features: 720p/1080i Resolution - The Standard HDMI Cable has sufficient bandwidth to transfer 720p/1080i video signals between 720p/1080i rated source and sink (display) devices The 720p/1080i drew my attention. Not sure, if there is a possibility for you to check with High Speed Cable with a shorter run.

Did you try high-speed good quality (lower gage) cable? I believe, your run must be longer than typical HT set up due to the projector mounted on the ceiling. Couple of links on selecting a specific HDMI cable for your needs (1) Type of cable (2) Length of cable http://www.hdmi.org/consumer/how_to_connect.aspx http://www.hdmi.org/consumer/finding_right_cable.aspx Quote: 25 to 100 feet - If you need to send a 1080p signal more than 25 feet, or a 1080i signal more than 49 feet, active electronics will help boost the HDMI signal to compensate. You can purchase either a stand-alone booster box or an active cable, where the circuitry is embedded in the connectors themselves. Both types require an external power source. Unquote:

Pretty Cool !!

Happy Easter !!

Days flew by and it's ready to move in - awsome !!

You must NOT have a real Klipsch Woofer, as it never gets tired !! Depending up on the type of the woofer you've, there might be a re-coning kit available from the Klipsch. If not, wait for someone to chime in.

incredible - an architecture marvel !!

there is another thread going on with quite a few suggestion "Power amp for Klipsch RF7 MKII"... check it out...

few things to add, while considering; 1. Refresh rate specially in case of LED technology 2. Micro dimming control or similar technology to provide better control over brightness, contrast, deep blacks etc. - Back-Lit LED panel versus Edge-Lit LED panel 3. Thin/narrow bazel of new-age HDTV might allow you to place/install bit bigger screen TV in place of original Tube TV. All the best !!

Your desire to get seperates or better amplifier is always good sign for boosting the economy and for the quest to "Audio Nirvana". However, (1) the SR7009 has 9 discrete amplifier channels each rated 125W, 0.08% @ 8 Ohm with 98 S/N dB ratio and (2) the monster looking RF-7 II has high sensitivity of 101dB @ 2.83V / 1m i.e. very efficient and hence doesn't require to drive hard as compared to other brand speakers in this power range! When, producing deep bass, the individual discrete amplifier channel is able to cope with high demand of current and thus delivers enough power to drive for those long movie passages (RF-7 II 10" woofers deep to 2-3 ohms range, but since my Denon can handle it, I guess Marantz SR7009 should be good) I've two Denon AVRs; one similar to yours in driving capacity and other with 140 watts. Both of them drives these monsters pretty well, sounding sweet and produces tight bass and shakes the floor during movie (HT setup), Stereo and Matrix 9.0 configuration. Sometimes, I drive all of them at +10dB for few moments to couple of minutes, but that's blasting - Potentially, a path to become deaf !! So far no "Protection Mode" event on either of them - touch wood !!! That said, I've contemplated multiple times to have seperates, but my engineering soul says that combined design is better i.e. high end AVR to reduce the signal path noise (different topic) with discrete amplifier channels. There is lots going on when designing today's high end AVRs to make sure the input-output stages of various devices are in acceptance range, good ground paths, isolated signal paths, features, etc.. Back in days, it was a necessity, while with today's technology it might not be needed! Now, if you want to drive them to their full capacity (250w RMS) then you will need a good amplifier to fulfill the job. Few years ago, I had auditioned Klipsch RF-7 II and Palladiums with Marantz Reference (PM) series amplifiers/seperates and various AVRs. However, I struggled to hear the difference between high end Marantz AVR and Marantz seperates at normal level and occassional 0dB drving in a treated room. For me the power is not be the big driving factor compared to how well it performs at the lowest hearing level and how it sounds. This will be different between brands and potentially between the series within a given brand. All the best in your pursuit to "Audio Nirvana" !!

It seems against the electrical principle, if subwoofer is powered on it's own and all you're providing is the signal (active subwoofer versus passive) to it. Now, the biggest question is that "are you sure that it's the subwoofer which is producing the sound that you're hearing?", or "is it mains or satellite producing sound in matrix sound or like wise?" The RC-64 II in my set up produces unbeliveble and tight bass up to 60Hz. During some passages, I couldn't believe that it's RC-64 II producing tight bass.

I've a PC that's mainly built for gaming with high-end graphics card to provide good video via HDMI/Display Port/VGA and audio card to provide 7.1 audio providing multiple options e.g. analog 7.1, etc. with various format of DTS and Dolby. It also had the TV card to watch OTA and cable on PC. The dual video output on graphics card allowed us to connect to TV as well as the PC monitor. We used it for long 4-5 years before, I went with dedicated audio and video devices. I loved it, exercizing my geeky side enjoying music, TV, movie watching and gaming at the most cheapest but quite good from the audio/video quality aspect. That said, most current days BDPs have significantly lower time from standby to play with various "Smart" features and potentially wi-fi connectivity. Typically, the built in hardware in BDP decode various auido formats while high end video processing unit is dedicated to provide best picture. Let's say, compared to PC, the audio and video processing are optimized between dedicated hardware and software. This way it's not depedent on the software program used on the PC, driver of the audio/video card or the type of audio card and video card used. Sometimes, it's quite challenging to get everything sorted. Assuming minimal technical challenges, in my opinion, the major downside of using a PC is the comfort as well as getting all family members to get used to it. Not to mention, now a dyas brand named BDPs are pretty cheap in $100 range.

I understand the size is fixed to 55", however, see if you can convince your folks and there's a possibility to have a bit bigger size. I guess, this is going to be their main TV for a while... Depending upon the preference both Samsung and Sony are pretty good - bit pricey but there're quite a few reasons from technical aspects. If "Smart" and "3D" are not needed then don't use it, but make sure that you like the picture, color, tone, sharpness, etc. e.g. Samsung LED 7150 or something in 7xxx series might be a good fit.

lol... I'm last in the queue and going to miss the "free" speaker event !!

Not knowing the other components in the system and their setup 1. Disconnect the RCA connection at Yamaha and see if you can repeat the issue with rest of your speakers i.e. 2.0, 3.0, 5.0, 7.0,... 2. Assuming that it still goes in "current limitation / safety mode / protection mode". - Check the speaker settings on Yamaha - change all of them to "SMALL". - If there's a crossover setting then set it to 120Hz or 150Hz for all speakers so that no speakers try to play below the crossover point. - When speakers set as "BIG" or low crossover point, they'll try to produce lower frequency, where quite often they dip up to 2ohms or less when there's need to produce strong bass (e.g. in your case movie passage with strong bass). To produce that heavy/strong bass, speaker coils needs lots of current to drive that big size cone in-out i.e. needing very high current to drive them. Fortunately, YAMAHA's output stage checks for this and shuts down the output stage of the amplifier to protect. 3. Speaker Wire and Connections: - Make sure no "loose strand" of a multi-strand wire is trouching either the metal body of YAMAHA, other speaker terminal, or any other wire. Check this at the both end of the connections; one at YAMAHA end and other at Speaker end for both (+) and (-) wires. Heavy bass yielding in vibration might be causing to touch the metal part of the unit, leading to activation of the "Protection Mode". - Check visually for kinks, cuts, etc. If there is one, use electrical insulating tape to fix it. Best is to replace the wire, as it's cheap. - If possible use lower gauge (thicker cross-section wire) to minimize the voltage drop across the wire. - Make sure connections are tight at YAMAHA and at Speaker end. Hope this helps to find your issue !!