mustang guy

Wow, -12dB on the squaker. You must hate it.

I really like this room. I told the guy it looked like it would be perfect for some Khorns. Check it out:

It might make a nice bird feeder with a little work.

My AVR allows for a single rear speaker. Can you see if yours has that ability? You should sample it behind you on the shelf with some long speaker wire. As unobtrusive as it is, it would be a good way to add more presence, if for no other reason than "all channel stereo" more when listening to your Jazz.

As @T2K says. Decoupling them from the floor is what is changing the timbre. Slanting them back, as they do with the short "Heresy's" puts your ears more on-axis of the tweeter and midranges, which makes a huge difference. You can experiment with a books or magazines to get the angle you want. Eventually, you could get some more substantial risers made.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-OF-2-Paradigm-X-30-High-Pass-Subwoofer-Control-Unit-1C/263476381605?hash=item3d586a87a5:g:D7UAAOSwMfhadpet These never come up for sale, and I've never seen them this cheap. They are being sold as-is, so they may be duds.

It is a beautiful thing when somebody makes a complicated things simple. That's why I enjoy ELI5 on reddit. Check out this video I found on fourier transform.

Excellent. I never knew these existed. And cheap! The one I use I made out of wood and my trusty Kreg.

Who knows? Give it a try if you like. It would be cool looking! Realistically you are probably better off just building a sonotube sub. It's been a long time since I ran a design of a push/pull sub design, but as I remember there wasn't a whole lot of point to it. I think you just add 3db to the thing but lose the ability to port tune, passive tune or even box volume tune. (this is from memory from years ago, so it might not be 100% accurate) If I were building a sonotube, I would go either ports or passive tune.

You stacked Forte II's on top of Choruses and are using an MC275 to power 4 speakers? That is very interesting. Do you have a picture? Are they laying on their sides to reduce comb filtering, and also reducing the horizontal polar to a sweet spot listening position? Sorry for all the questions. PS, I would buy 2 identical subs to smooth out the room response (you don't want too many loud spots or dead spots, and multiple subs smooth out these room modes). If you have the budget, then the best subs Klipsch makes are the P312W's. The R115SW's are a lot cheaper but have excellent reviews from our very discerning Klipsch subwoofer folks.

One more thing. As LFE (low frequency effect) cutoffs in AVR's are concerned, the default (and recommended by THX) cutoff is 120Hz. That is confusing, but only means that frequencies diverted from small loudspeakers will not be above 120Hz ever for a sub. That number can be lowered, but has little actual effect unless you have LFE that would go to some small speakers and needs diverted. What is important to note here is that if you set the LPF on the sub selector to 80Hz, it might not get that LFE between 80 and 120Hz. In fact that would simply be discarded since it was diverted by the AVR to the sub and the sub was told to cut it out. It is for that reason that if you are using an AVR with a sub, you are sometimes better to just turn the LPF to the highest frequency. You will be using the digital LPF in the AVR instead of the analog one on the sub.

I have seen you here a while. Have you heard about how placement of subs is almost never the same place you would put a speaker? The reverse is also true. That is one of the main reasons speakers don't have subwoofers right inside speaker cabinet. There are a few monster speakers that do this, but at their own detriment. At about 80Hz, sound starts to become directional, so you can tell where it is coming from. Below that frequency, the sound seems to be coming from all directions at once. It is at this point that the best location of a speaker and the location of a subwoofer starts to become more obvious. If you ask a sub to go into the frequencies you want, you are likely asking it to do so in a bad location for a loudspeaker. It's not the best thing for the sound. Also, when you allow the subwoofer to overlap the speaker frequencies, you can get some funky comb filtering and almost buffeting sounds. To me it can be like a rear window of a car being down. It's up to you, but a subwoofer is designed to take care of the low frequencies. It has no place in the upper bass frequencies. For that you need a bass bin. Claude is the bass bin master where Carl is the subwoofer master. You are in good hands.

One of my son's best friends works at Solvay in Marietta. Let me see if he has a lead on any. I had pretty much forgotten about this whole project till the other day when somebody mentioned buying a cleaning machine.

I made offline copies in case Klipsch moves to another forum software again in the future. TAA_articles.pdf and RECIPE.pdf

I remember that. What a bunch of dipshits. It is still hard to believe. FWIW, his half-brother and that woman are are still alive and serving their sentences. The woman will get out when she's about 60 probably. The half-brother will never be released with life+70.

Many of the JTR sub offerings are listed on the data bass site. http://data-bass.com/data?page=systems

Youth, Congrats on having over 1K subscribers! You really are the best.

Yeah you have. That's what I run.

Backs for sure.

I remember the planer in wood shop in highschool. You could send a very large piece through that monster. I think it weighed a ton. I remember putting a piece of very old and seasoned hickory through the thing. the teeth were not sharp enough to handle the extremely hard wood and the whole school shook when the board went through.

Thanks. I leave for a few months and lose the lingo. Sensitivity....

OK, updated the sheet. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CGLhHTS8LWnumqUzu6BkIp4cv2Vqyjj- John. I have used many different calculators on the internet such as those you listed. Although they are great tools for those who know how to navigate them, there didn't seem to be a place where a person could just look at some speakers and a stereo and see how loud they could go. This spreadsheet can also exemplify the benefit of an efficient speaker to a person who may not have the most powerful amp.

Yes. The spreadsheet could indeed include the inverse square calculator. I think I will keep it simple by calculating based on a single speaker. It makes a lot of sense that I mention the +3dB with each speaker added.

I just noticed what you said earlier about them being connected "back to back". I didn't catch that... Those are interesting little diodes.

That is a bit thicker than veneer. Beautiful depth! We have a woodcraft where I live. They usually have a great selection of exotic wood in the back room. WARNING: They ain't cheap by any means!