MikeFord

Agreement would be no fun, civility and refrain from personal feuds keep it friendly.

Nah, don't be a chicken, shoot the juice to it and lets see what happens. The nice thing about shorts is that with sufficient power they turn into opens.

The latest Dayton test system is $99 with a free scale or something, last one sold on ebay was $80, looks like $20 to rent a new one. The benefit seems to be its the "for dummies" way of doing speaker building, you pay to skip learning how to do the tests. Other route I've considered is the USB calibrated mic path and related software.

Hot deal for somebody in Phoenix, http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/ele/3666184936.html

Goodwill like all donation places often screws up, but they are learning, and selling Klipsch speakers for $15 each was clearly a mistake by Goodwill. Maybe they were surround speakers, but I can't think of any Klipsch that work being sold that cheap wisely.

I think the munged text is something related to the three editor options, but I've tried a couple with no improvement. Putting in your own HTML tags is a pain.

Carl, very nice looking and I could so do that, but what about the huge amount of bass coming off the back side, where does it go and how does it not drive the inhabitants of that area nuts? I live in a condo complex of duplex (one shared wall) townhouses (multilevel, as in 4 half stories for us). No modification outside without board approval (ie no modifications outside), but the design of my fireplace has a metal box in the middle of an 8' wide extension to the exterior of the living room, and the depth with clearance for the fireplace is around 2 ft. It extends several feet above the roofline. Its a BIG empty box with nothing but a 8 or 10 inch chimney pipe in the middle. Unfortunately the construction of the exterior walls around it is strictly the bare minimum for weather, tyvec over the wood framing, and a layer of siding, so bass would propagate rather freely to all neighbors. If I could get inside that area for a few days the potential is great, but I might have to do all the access by going through an interior wall between the framing, which sounds like very little fun, but not out of question when you consider it would move a huge box outside of the living room. Acoustic suspension with a big, but smaller than sealing and reinforcing the walls inside the space, box might work better than IB. Better for the neighbors anyway.

Is this a "real" problem? Don't people blow tweeters all the time with no apparent damage to the crossover when the tweeter is replaced? Seems odd that a bad tweeter would crackle loudly, instead of poof, with no sound

Knowing why you are choosing this route would go a long way in providing answers. I paid $275 for my Forte's with pretty nice cabinets and no knowledge of a bad woofer (didn't really notice it until a week of playing). Sets with bad tweeters etc rarely sell for less.

To me there is a clear line in the sand for vinyl playback with a handful of great sounding systems, and a great mass of something less, with varying levels of something less performance. Something less can be quite good, but it lacks the magic transparency and 3D quality of the great systems. I think it has something to do with the low frequency noise and isolation, which in turn could have something to do with the coupling of the LP to the platter, the bearings, etc. Rumble is a generic weakness of almost all direct drive tables, so few make my list.

Fumes related to the flux might be much more of a health risk than lead in the solder. I don't think you need a "lot" of air flow for a reasonable amount of protection, just some that is constantly directing the fumes away from you. I think I might look at making something with a 120mm computer fan and a filter with a flex hose I could position near my work. 120mm run at half voltage still have good flow, but are almost silent.

Picture looks very nice, asking price of $2595. Feels kind of like a flip to me, which gives me a double irk as flipper low balls the old Klipsch owner, and sticks it to new Klipsch owner.

Human beings have very poor sense of spl, most of the sensation of loud is the change in distortion characteristic. It could be your amp getting loud, not the speakers.

I like what a friend had to say when a similar question was posed about what makes a Porsche. James Bailey: 09/29/12 "Just grab a sewing machine some fabric and make yourself a pair of pants........that will show you how easy it is Please post a picture of you in your new pants !" Pants are a lot simpler than speakers, or Porsches, but there are enough technical details and practical considerations that with great certainty your 51st attempt will be an improvement on the 50th and all previous and maybe the learning curve will start rolling off. As a buyer or seller of a Klipsch speaker I would want ANY changes made clear, so any change and its not quite a Klipsch. What makes it a Klipsch are the years of accumulated knowledge that goes into each product.

A good room can make magic.

Gone from CL often does not mean sold or sold for remotely the asking price.

With some LONG links of reading it is taking me some time to follow along. (some notes below as I read). Bass is funny, below 100 hz or so and certainly below 40hz, a simple spl measure is not adequate to adjust level, especially not with the purpose of SQ comparison. Dipoles, monopoles, and horns excite room modes differently and to different levels. Bass has three types, Natural from musical instruments etc which doesn't often go below 30 hz, created sounds or eqed natural sounds usually not below 20hz, and natural environmental "room" sounds that don't appear to have a lower limit, at least not that know. How low? How loud? How clean? The range of good answers seems to be from 10hz or so maybe 80hz, and not much consensus on how loud, with a fair amount of distortion frequently tolerable. I like the bass on my Forte's, it seems close to just right on the fat/thin scale, no clue how deep or how loud, but likely its below my plenty loud threshold. I like chest slap bass, but not sure my neighbors would.

The only thing Klipsch is the refinished cab and design of the crossover. Seller claims vastly better, OTOH its for sale. That always makes me laugh. From the ad. "Truly incredible Klipsch Cornwall with all upgrades to make this one of the nicest Cornscala's you'll ever hear. It starts life with 2 original klipsch cabs with matching serial numbers. The cabs were refreshed by a cabinet finisher and look brand new. The grills are new as well. The tired old K33 was replaced with the mammoth Eminence 15C which is a direct drop in. The original K33 is made by eminence as well. The Shitty K700 mid horn and fried K77s are replaced with B&C DE85TN a true 2" driver able to cross at 400hz. The DE85tn is mated to Dave Harris/ Fastlane audio's crazy elliptical horn and is flush mounted into the cabs. Dave built this pair of speaker to prove his horns and the B&C DE85TN fits. Crossovers are ALK which is the only way to go with klipsch products. This is the APT12-500. What you're getting is a vintage set of cornwalls/ with 100% new parts spec'd to kick the *** of even the Cornwall III. Please no tire kickers. I know what I have and the price is firm. I've tried these against JBL L200 and the mids and smoothness of Dave's horn and ALK's crossovers surpassed the JBLs. "

You wouldn't want to take a turn for the worse. That long hair of yours would be a safety issue near any rotating machinery.

Fixed the link, CL asking prices don't mean much to me, its more that all this stuff exists and is possible to buy. Eventually the prices have to come into some kind realistic range.

Two common sources for hum, poor ground, but usually vol changes with vol knob, and bad capacitor in the power supply.

Glue a roll of quarters to the driver to slow it down. Will .50 cent pieces get em to 15?? I think your coin in the wrong direction, hz without how many db it is means nothing.

Tom Danley and Dr Hsu both REALLY understand bass and how to make it. Danley comes from the commercial sound reinforcement direction and Hsu comes from the hide it so your wife doesn't see it direction. Choice comes down to who makes what you want in terms of size, volume, extension. JL makes contest winning car systems, and sees some money to be made from audiophiles. Sooner or later I suspect I will have something by Danley, but I don't know when or what.

I've only listened to Khorns a few times, and really nothing else seriously that wasn't a direct radiator or ported box, and assumed that low bass, below 40hz or so would always need to come from a direct radiator. I started thinking about it last night and now I am wondering if I have missed some great sonic difference between horn bass and direct radiator. I'm too deep to turn back on a 2x 12" direct radiator sub box, so that will be the next sub in my system, but dandy time to start pondering the next one. 1) Whats different between horn and direct radiator bass, subjective and science behind it answers desired. 2) How do they mix, like horn down to 30hz and the last octave down to 15hz a direct radiator?

Wood turning is fairly low speed, and you want to presume the tool is going to bind or catch on something and already be out of the way. Wood is also MUCH lower density than metal. I haven't even watched turning in years, but the area I live in, SoCal, has a large wood turning community, so posting a note at the local Rocklers would likely find me somebody willing to help or do the actual turning. BTW a bowl is advanced work due to the diameter and desire for thin walls. Chair or table legs are beginner projects.