Marvel

Blackburn trumpets... Bruce

I understand this quite well, since I normally am using my Moondog 2A3 amps at 3.5watts. I swapped in my Curcio modded Dynaco ST-70 and it... stinks compared to the 2A3. But that's just my opinion. I have one of Roy Mottram's upgrade boards on the way, and I am considering using 6L6 outputs with it. Pull those mids down a little more.. Bruce

My first introduction to Klipsch wasn't even really Klipsch. I was in a church in Wisc., and ran our sound. I had to do sound for a conference over in Iowa, and one of our members was (still is) DJK's brother. We pick up a pair of the bass sections for LaScalas that he built, with a mid and tweeter on a separate board for the top. I don't remember the amp, but they sure sounded GREAT! Much later, my older son and I are loking on line to find out about the LS or build some... and I stumbled on here.Still too much money, but my son bys me a pair of Heresy IIs off ebay. I eventually found a used set of LS. Still would like to build the bass bin sections. They work great for PA, since no one can poke a hole in the woofer. As for the wife, same one the whole time. It was a good thing.

If you don't need high power, the Crown D-45, even without Mark's mod to them. But you only get about 25wpc. For my LS at my listening level, excellent. Plus, there is no fan to worry about. Bruce

When our school cabinet maker uses T-nuts, he will put a piece of wood on the back side that is screwed into the cabinet. This will hold the T-nut in place and prevent it from popping out. In other words, the T-nut is sandwiched in between two pieces. Bruce

That would be a cool idea. Unfortunately, my Heresy IIs have no stickers on them anymore.I had to look inside to get a fairly accurate indication of their age by looking at the dates on the inspection stickers. I think it would be a great idea for them to put a second set of labels on the inside of the cabinets, since they no longer stamp the sn on the backs. Bruce

I thought you were talking about women...

Nice looking! Makes them look like a set of Advents, a pleasant match up as far as i'm concerned. Bruce

I got this on a search of the Mouser web site. 10W 5.6 Ohm, non inductive version listed on page two of the pdf.They're vishay / dale rsns.pdf

Well, here's her pic, from an interview in a biker magazine.

Changing the extension to pdf doesn't make the file any less an excel file. It's just that windowsuses the extension to identify what the file is by the extension. If you can post it with a pdf extension, after folks save it, they only need to rename it with the xls extension. Then they can open it just fine in excel. Bruce

Not me! I found this site a few years ago, and it has moved on occasion, but it is interesting to follow, especially after looking at Bob's links on the Titan II. http://www.kiddofspeed.com

Take a copy and change the extension to .pdf. We can save it and change the extension to use it. I think I have done that before, to fool the filtering softwarefor file type uploading. []

The response will be wacked if you use them in series... They would need to run in parallel.

It would eklipsch all past systems...

2¢ What's the problem?

Ouch. Chi Town in the 70's. Couple of questions. Did your Klogs fly off and hit you in the head? Did the sudden motion get all of your gold chains and medallions caught up in your groovy chest hair? Was your polyester suite so slick that it sent you down the street like you were on a sled? And finally, did you blame the establishment? Wearing boots and bluejeans... didn't have any gold then... all I have now are a few krugerands... What chest hair?We went there after a gig at the Quiet Knight (opened for Tom Paxton) or a late recording session. I don't remember which. By the tiem we were at the club, I probably already was wearing an illegal smile. Blame the establishment? For me being stupid and drunk and clumsy? Just because the sidewalk was that bumpy packed snow turned to ice...impossible enough to walk on when you are sober. [:|]

I did that outside a nice club in Chi Town back in the early 70s. Slapped my hands on the ground as I hit the sidewalk. My hands hurt for a couple of weeks. It might have be the Harvey Wallbangers I ingested...[:|]

No, they use EL34, KT90, KT88, KT77, KT66, 6550 or 6L6 output tubes. However, they use a 12DW7, of which there are many choices, but no substitues (I don't think)Bruce

Wow, another thread from a year ago. Tim, there are some folks on here who have had some of the Quicksilvers. I am impressed with the Horn Mono amps, and another time, another wallet... I would love to try a pair. I think someone who is on here now still has some. Perhaps they'll chime in. Bruce

I'm interested too, but going across the state isn't very fast...I mean... ya can't get there from here. Bruce

Here ya go, Greg...http://www.woodheat.org/firewood/cord.htm

Not me... I just used the Google language tools... [:^)] I thought it would get enough infomation to him. Bruce

Hi Vincent, I don't know if there are updates for the CS700 or not. Perhaps someone will have the answer for you. Je ne sais pas s'il ya des mises à jour pour le CS700 ou non. Peut-être que quelqu'un aura la réponse pour vous. Bruce

Gil, DJK mentioned using a jig to hold the pieves vertically, so you cn then get the correct angle. This extra work was justifiable, as he mad a number of the LS bass bins (nice ones too, IIRC). Below are his build instructions. Bruce Cut all 22-1/4" items without moving the fence, box will be square that way(rip oversize and re-saw if need be). Set the blade to 30*, take your time and get it right. If your blade heels (most do), set the fence to be parallel with the blade. The set on the teeth should just shave the aux fence. An auxillary fence is used to cut the 60* angle, the board will be fed vertically into the blade. Use the next chamber angle board as a push board, then the ramps, then an absolutely square push board will be needed for the last item. Cut all ramps in one piece at 60* and 30*, then re-saw to 3" (add for your saw kerf). A brad nailer is used on the 60* boards to attach to the chamber sides and (later) make the front angle. I use 8d galvanized casement nails for about everthing else. With skill they can be driven flush without a nailset and leave no mark on the wood. Lay the chamber sides into a groove on the saw top. Lay the chamber angle sides on top and square up with the table edge. Tack in with two wire brads, then carefully pull appart. Apply glue to the joint, re-assemble, tap the two brads in all the way, and check to see if it is still square. Nail the rest of the joint with brads. Check for square (easier to fix now than later). This is all much easier than it sounds. Set the T-nuts (I use a c-clamp), make sure they have threads!. Glue and nail the ramps onto the motorboard. Draw lines on the motorboard so your nails will actually hit the ramps. Blunt the point of the nails to avoid splitting. Dry fit. Drive two nails for each ramp, but only a fraction of an inch into the ramp. Mark the order of the ramps on the motor board. Knock apart. Glue. Drive the nails home, add a third nail to each ramp if you like. Use a Surform body file if you need to lose any wood that hangs out past 22-1/4", the points should hang over the 15-1/4" width. Line up the motorboard assembly with the back and draw nail lines for the ramps. Cut the deflector shorter than 13", it will save a lot of grief. Attach to the back. Are your nail lines going to be visable? Dry fit the side/angle assembly to the motorboard with a couple of blunted nails. Start all the nails you will use. Glue. Make sure its square. Drive home the nails. Repeat for the other side/angle assembley. Use a small spacer to keep the front angle open while you work. When the whole mess is square, remove spacer and use the brad nailer on the front angle. If the doghouse is not square at this point, stop and fix it. Dry fit the chamber bottom to the back with two or three nails, then dry fit the doghouse to the bottom with a couple of nails. Glue on the bottom. Glue on the back. Dry fit the chamber top. Glue on the top. I use a two-flute panel cutter with a guide bearing to cut the woofer mounting hole in the bottom, use the brad nailer to tack on a guide for the router to follow the front edge of the cut.