Marvel

Craig didn't answer one of your questions. On each chassis are two transformers. One is the power transformer and one is the output transformer. Without getting technical, they are turned the different directions so the magnetic field in the power tranny doesn't have adverse effects on the output tranny. Marvel

m00n, I'm kidding a bit about the iron. It's just that having the iron in the shop, you might get other junk on it and the wife wouldn't be too pleased. But an iron is pretty cheap in the grand scheme of things. Have you looked at greg's website yet. Using the heavier veneer without any paper backing or adhesive already on it gives you more wood to work with once it is on the cabinet. This method it NOT like the iron on veneers you buy in the store. Marvel

Rockhard, The JBL drivers hold up well. Have yours discolored a bit ove time? Mine have a slight yellow tint now. Other than one of my kids pushing in the dome on the tweeter of one of my 4311s, mine are in pretty good shape. Those cerametallic cones are pretty fragile huh? I always leave my grills on, but that's just me. Sorry for the angst. Marvel

Actually, he is the one to live with the sound. If he is satisfied, that's all that really matters. It's not religion (with eternal consequences), where the wrong decision has a bigger impact on your life. Marvel

Dodger, I'm not sure if you are complaining about the Eminence drivers or what. They are one of the largest, if not THE largest speaker manufacturer in the world. They will make a speaker to your specs if you give them the specs. The more they make, the cheaper it is for you. They make excellent speakers for the money. DJK could probably give the various manufacturers of the Klipsch compnents if you asked. I'm sure Trey could as well, but he may be more inclined not to. I'm remembering CTS, Eminence, Hepner, maybe B&C on some newer models, etc. Even though I called Eminence and got the T/S parameters and part number for the K33, I can't order them from Eminence. I can only buy them new through Klipsch. Maybe I oculd, but they would cost as much or more. Otherwise Eminence would be hurting one of their commercial customers. No offence intended. Marvel

I've been using Win2K on this computer and not redone it for four years. Put the OS on right when Win2K came out. It is a myth that you have to reformat all the time.

JEPS56, Most of the guys here who have been doing veneering lately have been using titebond instead of contact cement. You put a coat on the veneer piece and a coat on the cabinet. Let both dry. Place veneer where you want it and use an iron (don't use the one the wife uses for your shorts or she'll wait 'til you have them on the next time!). The heat from the iron melts the glue and as it cools back down it fuses the veneer to the cabinet surface. A lot less fumes than the contact cement. I think the link to Greg's site above has the pages from a woodworking mag that explains in more detail. Marvel

Craig, Pretty easy to bypass the tone control on this little guy. Two leads come off the input selector switch, into the PECs and tone pots, two wires to the volume pot. No stray wires heading off anywhere else. Be great if I had a schematic, but I don't. I've looked for months and no one has one for this model (KN928). I know the PECs are just caps and resistors, but without the schematic I can't replace them with newer parts. Sorry to hijack the thread. Marvel

Maybe this will help: KT90 Cheers, Marvel

The attached contains diagrams for: ak-2 ak-3 al big type A Type AA Type AL-3 Type 500-5000 Type DHA2 (from John Albright) Cheers, Marvel

If you already have LS cabinets: Build the bottoms and place the LS on top of them. A painless way to try this out and totally reversible. You could make them out of cheap lumber to try it. If you like them, redo them in nice wood and finish. The only problem is it will raise the mid/high horns up ten inches. If you are building from scratch: Make a hole in the top of the doghouse and enclose the back of the top portion of the cabinet. Port out the back of the top with this method. While you are at it, make a cover for the woofer, in case you don't like it. Then you can go to a stock LS type enclosure without ripping apart the cabinet.. If you follow the above links, there is a pic for each mod. Marvel

Carl, I rebuilt my ST-70 recently. I've had it for 30+ years, and noticed that the PS tranny was getting way too hot. You couldn't keep your hand on it for 20 seconds. It has been a weak spot (among others) on the ST-70. The heater voltages were over seven volts, etc. I hooked up a variac I have, and cranked the line voltage down to where I got the correct outputs. The line was right at 110VAC. It is supposed to be a 117 VAC primary. However, this was a later model of Dynaco that came from Japan. I don't know if it was mislabeled or what. A slight difference would have been okay, but our line is usually 120+. When I lived in central Illinois, it was lower and I never seemed to notice a whole lot. To fix mine, I ordered a replacement transformer from Triode Electronics. It is a beefier tranny, and according to the website the pri. is 12oVAC. The paper that came with it says 117, but it's much better than the old one. I'm waiting on a new set of tubes now, as one of mine (original) has gone south. I can't get it to bias. We'll see if it runs cooler when the new tubes are in. It's way heavier! The laminations are about one inch higher that the old tranny. Marvel

Carl, I think the RCA Isotap allows him to step down the house voltage a little bit. Basically the same problem I was having with my ST-70. Your power tranny works with ratios. If it was made to have 110 VAC input to get 360-360 out of the secondary, an input of 125-128 VAC will give proportionately higher outputs. Another tranny with output taps (like using a variac, but in steps) allows you to bring down the voltage you feed your amp. And make it the input voltage the parts were designed for. You can buy a 10amp variac for $120, and dial in the voltage you need. Marvel

Grab a box of Craft Sticks (look like tongue depressors). As you work around the edge and lift up, you can place them under the edge to keep glass from settling back down on the adhesive. The glass should flex enough to allow you to do this. And DO wear eye protection.

Yo Mike, That little Knight Kit I have does use those little PECs. Not made by Centralab though. They have seven leads and are totally in the tone control circuit. I might just bypass them to get them out of the equation. Marvel

They are disqualified at cat shows, so the breeders are trying to breed it out of them.

These might wander a bit: http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=36054&forumID=68&catID=19&search=1&searchstring=&sessionID={BFBBCFBD-74CC-4815-870C-D89BB808B72B} http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=35527&forumID=71&catID=19&search=1&searchstring=&sessionID={BFBBCFBD-74CC-4815-870C-D89BB808B72B} http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=45546&forumID=71&catID=19&search=1&searchstring=&sessionID={BFBBCFBD-74CC-4815-870C-D89BB808B72B} You'll have to read through these, but the info from djk is in there. As I recall, the box to place under the LS is ten inches high. The two ports are 4 inches in diameter, 10 inches long. You can get pvc at Home Depot or Lowes, with the 4 inch inside diameter, very cheaply. As djk says, the K43 works the best, the K33 is okay. No one makes a comparable speaker, especially for the money. I will point out that I don't have any LS. I don't have room. Marvel

m00n, The K33 is made by Eminence, and costs about $130 from Klipsch. Made to Klipsch spec's. It is a stamped steel frame. Thing is, the paper cone with cloth surround will hold together far better than the foam and rubber versions on other speakers. It can live a long and very useful life. It has a very large xmax. Given the rest of the specs for that speaker, you can't get anything similar for near the same price. The compression drivers don't go cheap, not if they are any good. It would be very easy to spend far more (as folks here have done). Marvel

It's not funny when the butt of the joke are the dead or dying! Our family has supported Food for the Poor. Their administrative costs a under 5%. http://www.foodforthepoor.org Marvel

Most generate a stepped sine wave. They can be made to put out a vrey, very clean sine wave.

Don't do the target="_blank", that will make you have to click on it and have it open in a new window. btw, with Firefox you don't get to use Rich Text here. I just put in the link when I do it. It's really easier. Marvel

These might wander a bit: http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=36054&forumID=68&catID=19&search=1&searchstring=&sessionID={BFBBCFBD-74CC-4815-870C-D89BB808B72B} http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=35527&forumID=71&catID=19&search=1&searchstring=&sessionID={BFBBCFBD-74CC-4815-870C-D89BB808B72B} http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=45546&forumID=71&catID=19&search=1&searchstring=&sessionID={BFBBCFBD-74CC-4815-870C-D89BB808B72B}

Tom, I thought you would replace the driver. I could see you doing this at home but don't you think it's pretty wonky in a studio setting? Marvel

Early LS had the woofer door on the top of the "doghouse", which would make the mod easy. If you think you might want to do it later, make the hole in the top now, with another hatch to seal it off until needed. Almost no work now, and lots more if you decide to do it later. Marvel

D-Man, Nice drawing! I'm gonna save that one. Do you have a copy that isn't sized that small? Here is the bass extension. I could provide details but I'll let you search under two channel to find it. Bass to 31Hz. The picture is pretty self explanatory and yes, people have done this.