derrickdj1

The bias range is 0.35-4,0. The meter is at 0.0 no matter which of the 4 sockets the bad tube is in?

Last night I changed my preamp and power tubes. Three of the power tubes biased with no problem, one did not. I tried the bad in other spots to make sure that amp socket was not bad. The bad tube did not bias in the 3 other slot. I can't detect no broken parts, loose part, tube color change or discoloration? Can I get by with replacing only the two tubes on the one side of the amp or do I need to do all 4 power tubes(V1-V4).

Speaker impedance does change constantly with movies and music. Klipsch Ref. speaker are 8 ohm nominal. You will be fine. My old Sony handel the RF7 which dip to around 2.7 ohms. Now, if you owned 4 ohm speakers, that is a different matter.

Sounds like a problem in the amp. Call Klipsch quick!

The big thing is making sure no pipes, electrical conduits, joist beams, ect are in the way. This is a big problem with basement HT's.

Two ported 18's should do the trick. If budget is a problem consider DIY. A good alternative is two sealed 18 kits from Parts Express and use an I Nuke amp to power them.. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-18-reference-series-ho-subwoofer-and-cabinet-bundle--300-7094

It should power the speakers OK. Most of us have avr's with a lower watt rating than the speakers RMS watts. I have been using an old Sony 100 watt avr for over 10 years. It has powered my RF 7's, RC 64 and surrond in a 5.1 system in a large space. I have also owned some expensive avr's for comparison. The biggest thing is features, autocalibration and the ability to tweak things. Also, connections make an avr more versatile with new and older gear.

Here is a link to a good general guide: http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=95817

The distance measured by a tape measure and the actual acoustic may differ and the autocalibration distance may be more accurate.

Another GTG would be a great things. Weave in and out of Weddings and Graduation ceremonies. This should happen!

My biggest problem is changing the equipment list in my home, lol. Some of the tech guys should e here soon!

I love the Technics TT, Enjoy!

The XO for a 2 channel system may be lower than what one would use in an HT system due to the compliment of speakers in the HT. In a 2 ch system setting the XO 15 Hz above the low frequency speaker cutoff is an acceptable practice. The is no reason to think that the bass of a speaker is superior to the bass of a subwoofer when both handle the operating range. A good sub integrated with the mains should basically sound the same. Some of our members have the benefit of having a separate 2 channel and HT system. Many on the forum use the same speakers for 2 ch and HT. This situation takes a bit more thought. Nothing wrong with using multiple variable XO if the avr offers it. The XO serves two points in this discussion, blending with the sub and protecting the speakers.

Good point Gary. In the example, the speakers seem to be grossly mismatched. I never said don't use the variable XO, which would work well in this case.

Distance from the wall also depends on if you are using a sub and run the speakers as SMALL VS LARGE. Set to LARGE, you need more distance from the wall.

I am not saying you can't use the variable XO, there is no point in trying to set all the speakers to the lowest XO based off the manufactures spec. I have the RF 7II/64 system and use a XO of 100 Hz. This works well for music using one or two subs. This setting is also protective for the surrounds and Atmos speakers during movies demos. Most subwoofer can play clean up to around 200 Hz. The subwoofer driver is better suited for bass in the 20 Hz to around 130 Hz range compared to a smaller woofer. There are no absolutes and it depends on what your ears like. Setting a XO from 80 Hz down to 60 Hz based on speaker spec's is a total of 20 Hz in a bandwidth going to 20 kHz or more. Would you miss $20 dollars out of $20, 000?

I am willing to go out on a limb and ask that you support the above with objective data and measurements. Setting the Center from 60 to 80 Hz is not significant. The overall aut-ocalibration is wrong if it can't adjust. People think I can totally depend on Auddysee, there are to many versions and other aboration. No one know's where they are at. This is not the best calibration method, peoriod!!!

The best amp to pair with your speakers is my amp, lol. There is no right or wrong answer. I paired my modest amp against a $7000.00 and there was no really difference . I went home happy to know that I would not have trade my amp for the more expensive amp, unless to try an make a quick buck. Definitely, not to keep the expensive amp.

Here are measurements of the latest settings with a 100 Hz XO. Sometimes the auto-calibration will set the speakers to 80 Hz. I don't worry about having variabel XO settings. I have been able to reproduce these graphs in multiple rooms using a global XO. I don't worry about having speakers set to small. These type of graphs can be achieved with one, two but, not eight subs in the room! There is a portal of time measurements with auto-calibration of roughly 40-80 milliseconds that need to be taken into consideration in most rooms when running auto-calibration. This can be a deep learning curve and may not be a feature of a particular avr.

This is more a marketing gimmick, than true audiophile usage. You are talking about variable XO. We are talking about such a small portion of the bandwidth from 20 Hz to 20 kHz that using variable XO has not been proven better than using a global XO in all my internet searches. As I have said previously, without real measurements, it is guess work. The bandwidth from 40 to 80 Hz is roughly 1/10 of the entire bandwidth and not the most critical like 1500 kHz to around 4000 kHz. Changing a single speaker up or down 5-20 Hz is very minor compared to proper setup and correct autocalibration. You can use a sub or not , and have a great sound depending on the room, music, and what you like to hear. Many people don't have the luxury of a dual setup and need to get one general system to do both HT and music well. Looking at my signature, you may say, well look how many big subs you have. I have tired for 3 or 4 yerar to integrated the subs for music. They will work with HT but, I only need one or two for music and they have to be near the Mains for best integration in my room. The vast majority of rooms only need one or two subs for music.

The only real way to see what is going on is to get REW or Omnimic. When using a sub, in general set the speakers to small. Choose the XO based on the weakest speaker, usually one of the surrounds. The only real way to see how smooth the Mains mate with the sub is measuring. If the system is for HT, the center channel and sub XO is key. If the system is for music and HT, then the measurements should be based on Mains and subs. Why this, the center is still important but, the mains contribute so much that they take priority. This is a critical area to get right being just a small part of the entire bandwidth 20 Hz to 20 kHz. I run my speakers with and without a sub and can't say one is better than the other. So, experiment for now and plan on getting some real objective data.

The hybirds can sound good, clean and be a nice addition to a system. I have one, Yaquin VK2100, for years and the sound from a tube amp or integrate tube amp will be different. Hybirds are limited in the preamp tube selection and the power output is of a SS nature.

The 6CA7 fat tubes are nice and I like the sound. I also like the the Tung-Sol EL 34's. These tubes on my amp are well balanced from top to bottom. The bass is tighter and the midrange is excellent with sparkling highs. The 6CA7 has a more airy bass and a bit deeper although that is not necessarily needed with the speakers. Experiment and enjoy!

Those are the king of the Reference surrounds. Congrats!

Nope!