ryanm84

You will skip the yard work.

Love the finish on those. I think it goes to show that with the will, we can bring these beauties back to life. And no shortage of ideas and expertise on this forum.

I wouldn't consider using a stripper. I'm not saying you can't or that you couldn't get good results. I would be worried about really damaging the veneer. I've used stripper on solid wood before but not veneered plywood. Are you sold on keeping the golden oak? You could do a two step staining and go darker but still see the wood grain.

I think there is a bit of stretch in the photo making the speakers looks slightly different. The floor tiles look stretched. Kg4 is my vote. They look just like mine.

I would be worried about a belt sander. Black paint and removing it from veneer could remove the veneer and gt you into the substrate. I'd be much more likely to try the orbital sander with a medium grit to control how much surface is taken off. If only you could find it!

Can't wait to see pics of the refurb. Parts express is popular for replacement parts.

It's definitely a labor of love. You might consider some soft sanding blocks. I like them a lot because you've got something to grip instead of just pressing down with paper. You will probably need some sort of filler for the deeper gouges. If the substrate is mdf it will definitely not stain the same as the oak. Just get the stainable kind.

I would probably sand the entire speaker. You could probably sand just the stained area and then slightly larger for feathering, but I would worry about uneven finish on a sanded surface and one that still has the old finish and whatever might be on the surface. If you are trying the bottom first, try sanding part and leaving the other alone. If you don't like what you get you can sand lightly again and even it up.

Also you can get watco in oak or medium walnut or dark walnut and not have to stain per se but still get nice color with an application of oil. I did my corns with a coat of oak watco followed by dark walnut to get the brown I wanted. I would bet the oak would work fine for you.

I have oak KG4s and the micro fractures you are talking about is the oak grain itself. My speakers have never been smooth like a vinyl veneer because oak is inherently like this - textured. Whenever I stain I use a foam brush or rag to soak the surface. Let it sit then wipe it off. That golden oak minwax will probably give great results once the surface is the way you want it. I've tried spray cans of poly but never got the coverage I wanted. I always use a foam brush. Light coats with a light sanding in between coats will give you a good finish. I might choose semi or satin. High gloss I think looks unnatural on speakers. I don't know that you need the conditioner. Oak isn't known for splotchy or uneven staining. Pine is one where a conditioner is probably a good idea. If you use the watco rejuvenating oil, you could decide not to put a top coat on. You may decide you want to, but its not absolutely required. I just applied watco rejuvenating on my Cornwalls today. I thought about putting on an oil poly on because I like the wet look on walnut but I've not decided one way or the other.

There is a pair in Indianapolis. Black. Maybe a bit pricy. http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/ele/4375889423.html

The gouges look deep. Like into the substrate deep. Wood filler, even the stainable kind, will be noticeable as the wood grain will be interrupted horizontally on the speaker. That said, I would lightly sand the cabs as mentioned above to try to remove the old finish, stains, and generally level out the surface. If you can get them all nice and even, you could fill the gouge, stain, and position that side of the speaker into a corner where it is less noticeable. The tops are what you see and having them in good shape will make the side more palatable.

I like that set up. Door for control of the equipment rear access for set up.

Once dried, the only thing I've done with that type of glue is to scrape it away. You might be able to to use a sharp object to remove most of it but you will still have residue. You might be able to remove most of it without damaging the finish too much with a scraper or a light sanding.

Love the veneer!

This is an early April fools joke right??? That is an awesome score. I love the look of belles and you snagged 4. Sweet.

You have a pm.

Could try something like this too? http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/store/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=31_MD_00237

Assume you didn't move the KG4 that need to be in the corner to maximize the bass? I've KG4s and due to my room, they are not in corners. Bass is less than I would expect too. I run mine off a denon as well and they do pretty well when properly placed.

Alternatively if you take a piece of plywood and set the bevel at 31 degrees (or whatever the angle) and run the piece thru, the scrap, if flipped end on end lengthwise would have the 59 degree cut (or the difference between your first angle and 90). Right?

If you cut 31 on the left side with a miter gauge, you get the 59 degree cut. Explain, I'm not following you here. I think what he means is if you flip the stock over so the back is up and run a 31 degree cut, when you flip it over you have a 59. OK i get it, running a cut like that freehand is asking for binding & kickback unless you make a jig for it. Yes a jig would be needed. You can't push the cut freehand and the fence is on the wrong side. If you can get the right stock to fit the table t-slot you can make one cheap and quick.

If you cut 31 on the left side with a miter gauge, you get the 59 degree cut. Explain, I'm not following you here. I think what he means is if you flip the stock over so the back is up and run a 31 degree cut, when you flip it over you have a 59.

Cool. One more thing I want to do in my next house! Can't wait to see more.

Yes. This helps. Also think of all the space on top of those suckers for her to place holiday knock knacks and such.

Got a pair. I've not heard khorns, scalas, or belles. But I do know this-my Cornwalls in the same room or one in each room as I've seen done before are hard to beat. I am not an engineer nor do I have training that many do. Just listening to the music tells these ears all they need to know. Very interesting read.