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0 out of 10 is good in this case! Keeping track of sold items is a nice tool to use for a general idea, but it is very general. so many factors come into play on something like that. Like you said, location, condition, actual sale price etc etc can be all over the place. & the "nys" thing is a real killer, who's to say what they actually sold for, just because they are listed at 1200 doesn't mean the seller actually accepted that price. I am in iowa, anything I buy or sell is usually within a few hours at the most. I have owned & sold many different klipsch speakers & tons of other mid-fi gear over the years, started doing it back in the late 80's to early 90's before the internet made it so easy. I'm not at an "opus level" with fancy search engines, I do it the old fashioned way, just occasional manual searches for things I want to add to or upgrade my collection.

I will add that I did see the occasional set in the $500-$600 range, but they were very few & far between & were gone before I could even get a reply from the seller.

& gone! In less than 24 hours. Ended early by the seller. I'm sure he got an offer outside ebay to save on the fees.

I know you arent officially offended, we've talked quite a bit in the past. I say that sometimes just to be sure something isnt taken the wrong way which can easily happen when writing, no way to convey feelings or sarcasm... some here can be a little touchy sometimes Your numbers are not off in the sense you wrote them down wrong, but from the data you have collected I feel the average you came up with is not a realistic representation of the value of these speakers. I searched for a long time (4-5 years) to find a nice pair of WO ch 2's & saw them selling for 650-1000 (in average or above condition) all the time all over the country in all different finishes from CL to ebay to forums & websites. I saw a pair on ebay last fall that didnt sell for the $800 starting price & offered the seller $700, he accepted as a sale outside ebay. I drove 3 hours to get them. I wouldnt call myself sophisticated... far from it! but as with almost anything sold on the used market, all your factors listed above come in to play to determine the price, mainly condition in this case, did you keep track of the condition of each speaker? I have seen lots of speakers in bad shape that would really sway the numbers on a small list of data. Like the saying goes, "its worth what someone will pay for it." I think most here will agree that your average of $568 so far for ch2's, based on a somewhat limited amount of data, is on the low end of the spectrum & not the norm. But I understand it was just for amusement. Hope someone that wants these can jump on them.

Yes I'm aware of how ebay works. $500-$650 range is indeed a "deal" & a very good price for nice chorus 2's regardless of location. Just wanted to let people in that area see them incase they are looking. No offense but I've said before I think your numbers are off by quite a bit based on what I've seen in recent years for some of the speakers you keep a log of... maybe its just the ones you've seen in your area or they were all in rough shape or something, but ch2's usually sell for & are worth a lot more than $568 average, esecially in very good condition. Shoot, forte & forte 2's sell for 500 or more quite often. IMO, $500-$650 is a steal for nice ch2's. You can add to your list the pair of oak ch2's I just sold last month for $900 that sold in 24 hours on CL & the 2nd pair I sold a month earlier for $800 with some scrathces & dings, & the WO pair I currently own that I bought last fall for $700. Lets get up that average a bit.

These look very nice & great price too. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Klipsch-Chorus-II-Floorstanding-Loud-speakers-8ohm-Surround-set-2-/272606528529?&_trksid=p2056016.m2516.l5255

That rip looks rather smalll, should be able to massage it back into place with your fingers. Use a little glue from the backside just where the paper meets, trying not to get any on the front visible areas, the glue will dry pretty fast & putting some pressure with yoru fingers will hold the paper back in place. then after thats dry you can apply a piece of thin paper like coffer filter, tracing paper or rolling papers etc about 1" bigger all around the tear, it will seal it up from teh back side very good. or after the main rip is glued you can use a layer of rtv silicone too. My main point was to noty use it on the front since it wouldnt look very good. I had a rip like that in a passive & you can barely see it after the repair.

Nothing wrong with sending the tweeters & x-overs in for service, but if you can pull the tweet & test it with a meter you can probably replace the diaphram too. It is really just a matter of removing a few nuts, lifting out the old diaphram & placing the new one in its place. Very basic procedure that doesnt require paying someone to do it plus shipping both ways. But if you aren't comfortable doing it then the service is worth the cost. You can also find used tweeters & stock diaphrams for very cheap if you dont want to update the diaphrams just yet. The chorus & forte in stock form are great speakers! Same for x-overs, if you can solder at all or learn how to, you can save a lot of $$ by doing it yourself. The caps I mentioned above are physically the same size as the originals & are very easy to replace, the caps bob sells are almost double the size of the originals & can take a little creativity to place them right. Soldering small leads on a printed circuit board is the easiest soldering there is, takes very little heat to remove them & very little heat/solder to reinstall them. Soldering thick wires or soldering in heat sensative areas take a little more skill & experience, but a couple caps on a board is very basic... but as stated above, if you are just not comfortable doing it then paying for the service is best. Depending on how big the rip is in the passive, it may be better to fix it from the back side. If the original material will lay back down & fill the rip, it's best to use some thin paper & white elmers type glue, a coffee filter or even a cigarette rolling paper works great, it will look better than glossy messy RTV silicone. Also if they are too far gone or you dont want to try the repair yourself, you can send the passive to simply speakers for a recone, they use the correct looking accordian surround, runs about $50-60 each. As suggested, howards restore a finish is good stuff & will make them look very nice. The feed & wax is an option too but I like to just a furniture oil for maintnance, like lemon oil. After the howards restore, just apply a light coat of oil 1 or 2 times a year. Your speakers look very nice & you will love the chorus 2, aside from the big heritage models the chorus 2 are one of the best speakers klipsch made. Give them some good power & they will impress you, they love high power solid state amps & really come to life above the average 75-100 watts, but are so efficient they will sound great with quality lower wattage amps too. Post some pics after you treat the wood & fix the passive (or before)

sounds good. your speakers are set for another 25+ years of use!

The flip side of that would be running a rc3ii with a pair of rf7ii's, the match up would be just fine. The rf3 are fine but seriously lacking compared to the 7.... The rc7 is a much better & more expensive speaker than the rc3 & IMO is overkill for the rf3 speakers. If you can afford the rc7 by all means get one & then you will be set if you upgrade the rf3's. But as frizninvt mentioned, the rc3ii is the correct & best matched center for the rf3's & actually a very good center especially for the money they sell for.

Any local hardware store with a normal bolt selection should have them... they are just standard wing nuts for the most part.

Regardless of "in his area" ... the heresys are WAY overpriced & usually are. For $750 you can get forte (2) or even chorus (2). & $750 is overpriced for fortes too IMO. Heresys may be nice speakers but are known for lacking bass & just dont compare to the quartet, forte or chorus. My vote from those options would be the quartet, hands down. Its a better speaker all around & cheaper based on the prices listed. But unless you're in a big hurry I would hold out for awhile for fortes, they come up for sale pretty regulalry, just because something is close to you doesnt justify spending hundreds more than what its worth, driving a couple hours wont cost $100 or more than shipping as stated earlier.

I have the au-719 & its a great amp & gets very good reviews, but it also had a touchy right channel, luckily it was just the volume pot that needed to be cleaned. I have had a few vintage integrated amps that had pot issues, luckily they all cleaned up with some deox-it. Also have the tu-717 & its very nice but a couple display lights burnt out, i plan to replace them soon. i've always like the vintage sansui gear.

Been awhile since i was inside fortes so im not sure on the wires in the clip, pulling the passive is very easy & lets you see what can or cant be done inside, i prefer to pull the passive when doing any work inside just for a better view & access to things.

Easiest way to test the mids & tweets is by just hooking the speakers up to a receiver & turning the bass down all the way, then with medium volume stick your ear about 1" away from the tweet, you will hear if its working. Then same thing for the mid, you can use a piece of cardboard or a magazine etc to cover the driver you are not listening to to help block its sound, but you will definitely hear a working driver. Next test is with an ohm meter to verify they are within spec, they should not read between 4-8ohms as was mentioned earlier, tweets should be about 8.7ohm & mid about 11.5ohm. Wires need to be unhooked for the test, you can get to them by either pulling each driver or by pulling the rear passive, make sure you mark what wire goes where. Unless these were driven very hard the tweets & mids "usually" dont blow, they should be working, but if not you can get replacement diaphrams for pretty cheap & installing them is easy. As for crossovers, if you can do basic soldering you can replace the caps yourself & do not need to by the expensive caps unless you have the money to burn or feel you need them for some reason like you have super expensive gear. While I agree that the original caps are getting old & were pretty cheap, if they arent actually "bad" the speakers will sound great, listen to them for awhile before you decide to upgrade. Good quality caps run a few bucks a piece like daytons or some here like the ERSE brand, my bet is you & most people can not hear any differences between a cap that costs a few bucks vs one that cost $15 or more. Yes there are better quality caps that have their place, but for speakers that use average gear you simply do not need them, save the money & buy tweets or mid diaphrams if they are needed, if not listen to them as is for awhile & form your own opinion. Replacing a few caps on speakers like these should not cost a lot & is a relativly simple process, even if you have never soldered before, its a simple task you can learn by watching some youtube videos & practicing on some wire & asking questions here. Also do a search for replacing caps, there are many threads of people who have done it before.

on the forte & chorus 2's the terminals are on the bottom & there is plenty of slack in the wires to rotate 180* to the terminals on the top. fortes should be the same.

congrats! but why post to the alerts section that you already bought something? isnt this for letting others know about active sales? post pics & info in the 2ch stereo or general info section when you get them home.

pretty sure those were the NEW/NOS set that were made for a klipsch family member. never taken out of the boxes... surprised they didnt sell for more. $1800 was MSRP 20 years ago!

the polyshade has poly mixed in & can dry uneven on porous surfaces. the satin poly is very easy to work with & should even out the sheen... i had good results with a fine brush or a foam brush. put it on in 2 thin coats & lightly sand the 1st coat asfter it cures.

Looks like 1700 is for just the speakers, & if thats the case they are way overpriced IMO. the boxes add to the value & they do look clean but the black finish is the least desireable & usually doesnt bring what the oiled oak or walnut finishes bring. I just sold a set of oiled oak in what I would call A condition for $900 & they sold in 1 day on CL. I think wvu80's average of $538 is pretty far off for chorus 2's, that could be an average for that area, or for below average condition, ive seen some pretty rough ones sell for that price range. for "nicer" condition ones i think 600-750 is a good average & ones in true A condition are getting closer to 800+. then you have the yahoos on ebay trying to get 1250+... LOL

Yes the 12vdc amp to a 110ac house current is a hassle. Back in the day as a teenager, I used to run a car amp & subwoofer in my room but only because I didnt have the car the subs were in anymore & didnt have a nice stereo. I used a small motorcycle battery & a small charger.. it worked fine but isnt really a permanent situation. Mild music= jazz, classical, opera, very soft rock, or anything intended to be played at lower volumes. Tubes are nice & provide a unique sound but I really dont think they are best for rock & roll & heavy bass music thats usually played loud or VERY loud. I have many vintage klipsch speakers including the k-horns, my music taste is "rock & roll", from classic rock to some older heavier rock & newer stuff too, I also like to listen to jazz on occasion, you should check it out sometime, I dont know many artists by name but jazz music is the foundation of rock & roll & has some excellent drums & overall "groove" to it that is good listening when youre in a "mellow" kind of mood. But I also like some "good" old school rap from time to time.... I like anything but country & obviously opera & gospel! For that bass heavy type of music I feel a higher watt solid state amp is best to get the impact & full bass at higher volumes. For the music you listed, you might want to post this question in the solid state section or just the 2 ch stereo section, but by all means if you can afford it, try out some of the higer power tubes (5-10 wattt.) Reserve power= 75-100 watts or more. There are many good brand quality amps out there, many like mcintosh for klipsch but there are tons more that members here can suggest if you post this in another section. Currently I cycle between an adcom gfa555ii amp with 200wpc, or a rotel rb-990 @ 200wpc or an onkyo integra m-504 @ 165wpc, granted I never use barely 25-50 watts but the reserve or "headroom" is what makes the bass so strong, & for the chorus 2's they really like the power & come alive at half volume or more.... but I've toned that extreme volume down a bit lately, I've been to 30+ LOUD rock concerts & countless bar bands in my younger days, plus I play drums & have blasted my home stereos for a very long time... I want to save my hearing from this point forward! There are many good subs too, for your la scalas I would suggest a good 12 or 15" woofer powered sub, can be a newer more expensive sub like SVS, HSU or velodyne makes some nice ones, many other brands too. Many members here will suggest a horn loaded sub, but most of those are DIY or you can pay someone to make you one, I think a member here "jasonstr" does that. Most the subs I mentioned are powered & come with their own onboard amp, but some good subs can be passive & you provide the amp, again a good high power amp is needed for a sub.... & on the ohms note, you can use car subs in a good properly tuned box if the amp can handle the lower ohm loads, or if the amp cant handle lower ohms you can hook 2 4ohm subs up in series & the amp will see 8 ohms. In general car subs can be "boomy" & not as musical or "tight" as quality home subs so i'd stay away from them unless you just want to play around with adding the car subs you already have to see how you like the extra bass with the la scalas. & by the way, the car in your avatar pic looks awsome! what is that blown 32? i love old hot rods & deuce coupes!

Just an FYI on this statement: I agree that a car amp isnt the best option for home audio due to the hassle of a good power supply, but it will work just fine. The ohm ratings are at the speaker. While it is correct that most car audio speakers are 4ohm & the amps are designed to work at a 4 ohm load, a speaker of 8 ohms (most home audio) will work fine because the amp will see less of a load & will operate cooler putting out less watts. It will not damage or harm the amp in any way, it will actually be easier on the amp. This logic applies in reverse to home amps when running a 4 ohm (or lower) speaker, the amp will run hotter & put out more watts. so just as more expensive home amps can usually handle lower ohms, some high quality car amps are stable down to 2, 1 & even .5 ohms. There are many amps that will work well with your la scalas, they are very efficient speakers so they dont "need" high power, but unless youre a diehard tube amp guy listening to more mild music generes, I would suggest an amp with some decent power in reserve, especially if you listen to bass heavy music like modern rock or rap. La scalas are not known for having low bass, in fact many say they are rather lacking in the bass department so i think a good sub would be best for that rap "music." Also if you can get them into the corners of the room that will help the bass output. "would 4 la scalas for surround sound be overkill?" No, but you will need a 5th for a center to keep up with them...

Nice find for a great price. Fortes are one of the best balanced speakers klipsch made... funny how you like them better than the bigger la scalas... The x-overs may be 30 years old but that doesnt mean they are "bad." I had forte 1's & they sounded great with no signs of bad caps, if they sound good to you then I wouldn't worry about the caps right away. Also if you have basic soldering skills you dont need to send them off to replace a couple caps or buy overpriced caps. The improvement in sound comes from new poly caps compared to the cheaper original caps, you will be very happy with caps that cost a few bucks a piece like dayton or other similar priced caps out there. For placement, most any speaker will sound bets in a corner of a room, as mentioned you can go as wide as you need up to a point but being in a corner will increase the bass. & watco oil is good but ive had better results with howards restore a finish in the dark walnut, it helps with scratches & small blemishes especially when used with 0000 steel wool & will bring back some color to the wood.

gorilla glue is a little extreme for holding a light weight port like that.. & it oozes as it cures. silicone adhesive would be fine for the port. or a less permanent fix would be just wrap some electrical tape around the port for a press fit into the hole.

wow! very nice marantz. would be a perfect mate to my 1060. what did you get it for & what are the specs?