Dave A

And the nice thing is if he does change his mind later on he can sell for what he has in them so you get to listen on the cheap. Pipe organs Mookie. There is only one way to enjoy the big pipes but you have to be able to play them first and 50hz does not get anywhere close. Of course my solution would be a set of Super MWM's so I am not normal.

I was wondering how these would work as rear surrounds with a set of KPT-904's

HA you just have not heard those Chorus I's with secret sauce applied.

What if any work did you do to yours?

If you want in your face rock-n-roll drum thump La Scalas are the ones but if you want better definition and no resonance problems across the sound spectrum + deeper bass the Chorus is the winner. I happen to like the Chorus I because it is placement neutral as much as a speaker can be since it is front ported. Your child and your cat won't have a passive to destroy with the Chorus I. As Jimbo says you really need to listen to all these before you spend money again. Take your favorite music with you and play it when you audition speakers. I have probably gone through ten sets of LS or LSI's and perhaps fifteen sets of Chorus I's and II's. I always recap crossovers and then have a listen because it does improve things and yes I know you can't do that with some one else's speakers. For the last year I also change out the tweeters to something better and after restoring, fixing and modifying my preference is the Chorus I. Front ported which is important to me since they can be used anywhere and very musical and still have great thump if you need that too.

Judging by the screw heads I saw at the 2:00 and 10:00 positions right above the woofer they ran two braces front to back.

Hearing is believing and I would not and did not buy CW I, II or III more than twice. Those convinced me that CW = big boomy box. Of all the Klipsch vintage models from CW, Heresy, Forte, and La Scala the CW's were the only ones I decided to avoid. I am sure some mods would fix it but I never tried. The new CW IV's were stunning and it would be worth your while to find some to listen too.

Yes age does. Now I let the guy who hunts my piece bribe me to do so with a couple of kills each year and $100 get them each butchered and packed and frozen. Turkeys on my front yard not Geese and no half gallon sized deposits everywhere like those Geese leave.

The answer is in this thread.

Oh by the way I have had a very nice K-79-K for sale for some time on EBay so I am not sure what you typed in to search by. It was pulled from pristine KP-301 and is in great shape. Look for a PM

I know that feeling. The 904's I just got in have piles of bird seed husks in the bottoms and Brown Recluse spider signs everywhere. Winter kills them though and a vacuum works wonders for debris piles.

Apparently there was a standard developed for theater surround speakers that limited the higher notes tweeters were capable of. You modify the crossover to bypass this.

I will have some of these for sale as I get the speakers checked out and recapped. I will also be defeating the THX limits per mods described on this forum. Price and pictures in a couple of days if anyone is interested.

I love whyyerr threads and I think some consideration should be given to the very serious import of doing things right. I think there are a couple of things to think of here.First I endorse the use of high density metal conductors. You see what many in the audiophile world don’t understand is that the space in between the interstices of atoms is larger or smaller depending on the element in question. So your pure Platinum speaker cable is a top choice to make. Why you might ask and I am happy to answer. Have you ever heard a pop when your system comes on? This is more than likely due to electron puddling where the wire dips and the interstices allow for this electron puddling to happen. You see there is an accumulation of new fresh flowing electrons and then the puddled ones all propelled along at the same time and that surge from the puddled + new does this until the puddled ones are bled off. Of course denser metal stops a percentage of this but still in all you DO have to think of conductor slope. I have found the very best answer to be to have the amp, assuming the amp to be the very last item in the circuit which does then feed directly into the speaker cable, must be elevated above the speaker with at least a 10 degree slope angle going down towards the speaker. No dips or sags anywhere and how you do that does not matter. Personally I find acrylic tubes in decorator colors work best and look good doing it. I have found through serious research that a slope angle higher than 30 percent will unduly accelerate low frequency note electrons as heavier things are more affected by slope angle so be careful how steep you make your conductor runs. Also your crossovers, if there are any, need to be moved to the very top of the inside of the cabinet to maintain slope integrity. In this case if your slope to driver angle is greater than 30 degrees you might have to run the leads in a spiral down fashion on the inside cabinet surfaces accordingly. Once you combine correct conductor metal with correct slope you will find your sound to be flowing and vibrant and none of the accumulated electron problems will arise. One word of caution though on the choice of acrylic tube. Stay with the clear tubes and not the tubes with dark opaque hues to them as they will color your sound in a negative fashion.

OK this is on a "KPT-904M-B, P/N 116427" crossover for the KPT-904. There is a polyswitch and the label on it reads XX 50V X 110 JX3L-T Taiwan This crossover is different than the only one I can find on the forum and has an additional 25W200ohm resistor and this Polyswitch added to the tweeter circuit. How do I find out what the value of the polyswitch is and yes I have searched using all the data on the OEM polyswitch to no avail.

Jigs to manufacture a line of speakers for a company the size of Klipsch is an irrelevant and exceedingly trivial cost. Amortized over a run of speakers like the Heresy if it hit $1.50 per speaker I would be surprised.

According to what I remember Roy saying about that port. It does have a tractix flare around the perimeter and so is not very large and it is on both ends of the port tube. I think besides the fact it was a port that does what ports do there was a slight increase in efficiency due to the tractix flare and yes no one else has done that I know of. Rounded corners yes but not tractix corners. Every bit does add up though. Marketing dudes have to sound special when they describe things and the big deal here is the port size and length and the far lesser deal is the shape of the curved entry and exit edges.

There is a big thread here on Super Heresy's and you go there and read it you will see what was done and components used. Regarding the extra inch in the cabinet I would imagine it was done for acoustic reasons and not to fit a port in. Roy carefully makes a system that is an aggregate of choices to arrive at a specific result and jigs and fixtures are, I am certain, not any part of the equation..

All of the better speaker companies are expensive and for what you get compared to the competition Klipsch holds up very well. You can spend a lot more and have less from a lot of their competition. Personally I like to fiddle to much and like the hunt so I never was a buyer for new any way.

I don't think fancy wire makes a difference but gage can. I buy 100' of 12g zip cord from Monoprice when on sale for amp to speaker connections and 14g by the 300' spool from Parts Express last time for internal cabinet hook up wires. I am in the camp where copper is a conductor and applying snake oil to it does not enhance the performance. Does seem to raise the price a lot though and I love going to Audiogon to read fantasy stories from people who believe all this stuff.

Downloaded the 128k version of this and we shall see how it sounds later today. My favorite version so far has been by E Power Biggs. Agree with Thaddeus and look forward to these.

No recap? All those old mylars and electrolyitcs will have high ESR at the least.

I did the same thing. It did make a difference to me and what was your opinion of the mod?

" Summary So here we are. No matter which way we look at it, the X-curve does not pass the test of scrutiny. It would be wonderful if sound reproduced in a room followed such a simplified behavior. But it just doesn’t. There is much work to tweak the measured time interval and such, hoping to get that to correlate with real situations. But all of this I am afraid is misguided. The right knowledge of psychoacoustics and sound reproduction in the room needs to be used to determine the guidelines. Not something we cook up on the back of the envelop. Let’s hope that the standardization leads us to proper scientific solution. Until then, it is my sincere hope that people calibrating sound in theaters, do so using their ears and not compliance with X-curve. " I do not have capacitors on hand for a crossover refresh so what this will do is YTBD. I did however listen to a set of KPT-100's for a few hours and my conclusion was it was muffled sounding. I have heard the same thing with bad caps before also. However I decided to try the Crites mod since it is really easy to undo and it did make a difference and stopped most of the muffling sound. I should have caps in for a refresh soon and will also do that and see. My preference at this time is, for speakers I think are worthwhile to tinker with, to learn how to use REW or True RTA and set things up for my particular environment and most certainly not use one adapted for some movie theater standard. I find it interesting that the best Klipsch cinema gear have all gone to DSP's which indicates to me the x-curve is not something to strive for. I know other things are being done there also but there does not seem to be any mention of x-curves relative to DSP settings. Thanks for the link it was interesting.

Does anyone have a drawing for this?