Khornukopia

The high X-max subwoofers probably benefit from a serious break-in session, but I did not want to be in the house during that simulated earthquake. So I turned them up and hopped on my bike for a good long ride around the neighborhood.

That got me interested in the Ultimax 18" subwoofer drivers, so I bought a pair last week. The Ultimax's work really good in my big JBL cabinets.

I simply placed a bead of black silicone sealant along the edge of the black plastic cap. That fixed the buzzing problem and has held up for years.

Those look to be in very good condition. I would be patient, because you might find some others at a lower price, but go listen to them if it is convenient for you. Hopefully they can be placed in corners for your listening demo. I have Klipschorns and love them, but I also recommend auditioning the La Scala II and the Forte III.

Do you have this same problem when watching a DVD or Blu-ray source?

What is the grill cloth material?

How is the subwoofer performing in the new room location?

Thanks for the compliments. One of the challenges about this hobby is to keep it looking neat and clean when adding on more equipment and wires. Here is a photo of the back side of the multi-channel power amp in the cabinet pictured above. It is for the Tri-amped Klipschorns.

I am installing the Umax 18's in a pair of large ported cabinets and each will have its own Dayton SA1000 Amp and external Velodyne SMS-1 DSP units. The sealed boxes, available as flat packs, are a good deal. I imagine your pair of 15's do a great job.

New subwoofer drivers.

Electronics for the (other) stereo system are hidden behind the tweeter panel.

Sounds the same, but looks better.

Decided to recess some horn flanges for a smoother appearance.

Still have my original.

This DTA-120 from Parts Express has been a good little amplifier for years. The newer version has Bluetooth.

I wonder how it would sound with the subwoofer up front?

That is why I utilize the full bundles. It is a bit curious. For the sake of eliminating any test equipment variables, have you measured any other subs 20Hz signals lately?

First thing is to check your fuses on the bass bin connection panels.

I am now using a pair of DE-120 tweeters and Faital tractrix horns mounted on boards that will allow me to aim the tweeters when I work in different areas of the garage.

Yes I have also read about that imaginary specification, so I will go along with your humor. I placed a spool of 14 gauge OFC, 4 conductor speaker cable on a wooden rod clamped to a step ladder, pulled the wire through an empty junction box, up into and across the attic, then down into the corners where the speakers are. Each wire run was a little over 47 feet long, or more precisely, 571.25 inches long. Everything is good here.

Your speakers look really good. I hope they make it to their next home in great condition. When you sell them, remind the movers to unscrew the two wingnuts and lift off the removable top section, before carrying them up the stairs.

The garage Klipschorns have AK-2 split type crossover networks, and the AVR is Bi-Amp capable, an invitation to passive Bi-Amp the system, so l fed some 4 conductor speaker wires up through the attic and down to the front corners of the garage. I am not aware of an industry standard for speaker wire color codes, so considering typical banana jack colors, I chose red for tweeter positive, black for tweeter negative, and because green is used for chassis ground wires, white for bass positive and green for bass negative.

I hope you did not sell off any equipment or perfectly good speakers at your famously low prices because of that wire.

Those look like RCA coax wire.

That is good advice.