AllenTacey

MI close enough?

I used a mixture of woodglue like titebond and yellow contact glue with a heavy duty roller working in one direction from one corner at top across and down. That is why a mixture keeps it pliable do not move allow to dry overnight then do other side. There are special knives to cut the edges flush giving it a real wood finish. I suggest Danes Oil or Tung oil for the finish use two or three very light coats do not try one coat! Clear coat? Might as well replace the wood with plastic!

Please I have done a lot of veneer work on expensive boats so do not use clear coat use an expensive fine oil. Clear coat will look like plastic wood?

I believe a well maintained Teac RTR will work as sold way pass 40 years old. I own a Nakamichi 580 series (581) cassette recorder and I used great metal oxide tape, not Maxell, 20 to 20,000 +0/-0. The only tape I have lost was lower quality VHS recording of Dr Who (Jon Pertwee). It was lost because it separated at the end where it goes from clear to recordable tape which is the known loss of sticky...

No idea where you got that. I have tapes older than that. No problems. Actually, my oldest is a couple of 3" reels from my first battery machine, which would be a little over 50 years. Do they sound any worse? Well, that's problematic as they weren't exactly hifi to start with...but still quite clearly audible and understandable. Dave Good point. Though it's not RTR....in my opinion, it's worse....it's a Cassette. Back in 1969 my dad took me to see Apollo 11 take off. He had a little hand held recorder and pretended somewhat to be a reporter during the several days that we were gone. During the actual lift-off I turned the machine on and from 1-2 miles away, recorded the sound. Somewhere around 2005, something like 45 years later he was cleaning some stuff out and found the old tape. He sent it to me so I could do with it what I wanted. I sent it out to a restoration guy who copied it to a CD You can still hear/feel the power of that Saturn V as it lit the candles. Heck... I'll see if I can attach it as a WMA file Nope, won't attach. Can send if anyone interested. Keep in mind the viability life of cd's is also going to be short as well.

No idea where you got that. I have tapes older than that. No problems. Actually, my oldest is a couple of 3" reels from my first battery machine, which would be a little over 50 years. Do they sound any worse? Well, that's problematic as they weren't exactly hifi to start with...but still quite clearly audible and understandable. Dave Good point. Though it's not RTR....in my opinion, it's worse....it's a Cassette. Back in 1969 my dad took me to see Apollo 11 take off. He had a little hand held recorder and pretended somewhat to be a reporter during the several days that we were gone. During the actual lift-off I turned the machine on and from 1-2 miles away, recorded the sound. Somewhere around 2005, something like 45 years later he was cleaning some stuff out and found the old tape. He sent it to me so I could do with it what I wanted. I sent it out to a restoration guy who copied it to a CD You can still hear/feel the power of that Saturn V as it lit the candles. Heck... I'll see if I can attach it as a WMA file Nope, won't attach. Can send if anyone interested. I am interested email taceymg@gmail.com Thank You!

Looks like an early MacIntosh clone? Looks like my friend's Mac integrated amplifier...

Technics made some reliable recievers and belt-drive as well as direct-drive turntables. Problem with direct-drives is isolation from the mechanics being physically connected to the platter.

85 watts is ok and the Yamaha might have a little extra dynamic range? Both of my amps have a lot to offer there one is 2.5 the other 1.93 so the one that is supposed to be 100 watts easily "expands" to 250. But everything is referenced from 1 watt of output. At 1 watt your 85 watts is equal to every other amp. Extra horsepower only offers a tad more detail rather than the loudness. I too have a built in volume control called Sue so my having 550 to 600 watts sounds more like 20 watts. Listen for the detail in all music and if you hear what I hear you will be very happy. If things are to bright search online for acoustic dampeners. I have a wish book that includes electronic dampers to get the tingle under control. When I was younger I told my best friend that you know your music is being played loud enough when you actually feel the music such as when the bass has you vibrating in your seat...

CC's are used on the side of medical bottles, needles etc.. For instance I use 72 cc's or 72 IU's (International Units) of Lantus. Hope this helps! Diabetics such as I immediately recognize CC's 5 cc is about >|-|< (space between arrows) in an 1/8 inch wide syringe.

I like the straight line with gain paradigm. I use two amps both have been best using one to drive the highs the other to cover bass. I am suprised I have a great mix because I thought it'd sound "off". My first preamp picked up a hum in one channel so the second with better electronics adds nothing. Trn up the treble and it is very easy to set it right and the same with bass. Didn't think Klipsch needed bass tweaked but on some music a small turn of the bass knob and bass is perfect same with treble. My first preamp Iam going to try and change some of the electronics myself. The hum might be a transistor needing better solder.

John glad it is fixed. I asked around and found a local repair shop jem my Nakamichi cassette recorder needed a fix. Very reasonable. I'd stick with the shop you used. Adcom is not a tangle of wires and such. Rather many good companies make it easy to find the correct fix.I have one amp that is simple and the other well...looks to complicated fortunately the scematics are available online for free. $85 dollars an hour though is the base rate for an hour of car repair seems a bit stiff. I'd, while verything works find a more reasonable repair shop. Think $35 can be lopped off?

akdave most added amplification of orchestral music occurs in a sonically incorrect room where the electronics "highlight" the corrected sound. It is much like me using words to correctly respond. It is a tad off. I have a fully operational 1913 Cheny which is an upright cabinet with the wood horn under the turntable and the horn over the Acrylic LP storage on bottom the sound is accurate, even the first recording of Old Blues Eyes. Digital recordings need to sample over 48,000 per second which at first did not occur. I have a digital recreation of Tchaikovsky's War of 1812 on high quality vinyl which in the cannon section using 75mm brass cannons covers just short of 1/4 inch of space. That is what it took to make a totally correct composition of what that recording needed. Digital sampling held higher than 48,000 cycles, computers these days mostly sample over 96,000, mine does 320,000, digitally reproduced music no longer needs to lack anything sonically. LP vinyl never lack the ability to transcribe all things heard by ear. Saturday I am going to have my ears tuned at a Kid Rock show. I'll check the difference in sound between my two Klipsch speakers. I don't think there is a difference...

AMEN

On the back of the unit Sancho there is an area for tubes labeled in caps RECTUM... :-) I see the unit states "The BGW Model 100 is the most advanced dual solid state power amplifier available."? In 1980 Bob Carver released his Magnetic Field Amplifiers. I have not really seen anything that advanced. The M-400 ($800 brand new) weights about 10 pounds packaged in a 10 inch square box. 201 watts per channel with extremely conservative specifications. One switch on the back easily turns the M-400 into a mono amplifier spewing 500 watt into one channel from 1Hz to 250kHz +0/-3 dBs. Being one amp per channel separation does not come to question and who is going to crank up the volume to hear distortion come into question? A damping factor over 150 who needs a tube? David Hafler in 1980 released the DH-200 again a very honest 100 watts per channel using no negative feedback, no measurable distortion, amplifier with a 2.5 dynamic range (mine puts out 200 watts per channel but will do peaks at the rated 250 watts) bridged mono 500 watts per channel easily peaks 1000 watts, no TM when 2-channel and again used mono no TM. This was 1980. So while I love the glow of tubes the glowing transistors in these well designed amps from yesteryear, damn I am old, are not capable of disappointing because they lack tubes. I have found "dime store" Sony's, Pioneer's, Onkyo solid state material to lack sonic quality. Just recently though I found an amplifier at Best Bought that had a preamplifier built into the amplifier 100 watts weighted heavy as it should but how long is the cheap resistors going to hold up. Back in the good old days MOSFET's and JFET"S were expensive low variance resistors. Are today's electronics keeping lasting tolerances? They probably sound no different than an old tube... Yes to a SS Forum!

My amp has a 22 pound transformer and 4, two per channel, 40,000 microfarad capacitators. My first speakers fainted when they caught sight of it. Then I bought a ten pound ten inch square amplifier and my speakers giggled like school girls until they got broke in. Now that they are all properly introduced they spend the day making beautiful music together...

Jay I am doing that. I took out the gold connecting bands. I am using a Hafler DH-200 to drive mid/tweeters (100 watts per channel with 2.5 dynamic range around 250 watts) and a Carver M-200 to drive woofers (201 watts per channel with a 1.9 dynamic range around 293 watts). I use a Hafler DH-100 Series 2 (I have a Series 1 I am fiddling with) Preamplifiers to drive them. My Preamp uses very simple separate Bass and Treble controls that raise or lowers +/- 10dBs Bass from 20Hz to its upper limit and Treble (Mid/Tweeters) from 1000Hz up to 24kHz. The sound is great when I turn up the Bass it just gets tighter until I use too much then it muddies while turn up the Treble and everything becomes more focused and if I use it too little the sound becomes muddy again while turning it up all the way it does not clip rather the sound becomes lousy (disjointed?). Doing this division everything is allowed to work better than the specs in many cases producing an excellent sound stage! I am so much happier with music now. (My Klipsch R-28F's split the mids with the highs from the bass just by taking out the gold connection bands)

I am as good with music as I am with wood. Go to Home Depot and get some wood filler. Ask for help on how to do the job. I'd get a small hand held sander (I have 2) with various grits finishing with very fine sandpaper. Start with some sandpaper under 150 grit sand until grooves a smooth then hit it with 200 grit then an hour of 400 grit add finish only when you like the feel. Use an oil finish and polish it until you are happy with the look. Geesh I write all that and look for some Tung Oil and found this: http://www.minwax.com/woodworking-videos/new-featured/three-step-wood-finishing-process

What is your opinion about using the new Reference 28-F's? I really like the thin size with good heft; 86 pound sized heft in a 13x13x9 room. I could use them in a 13x22x9 room but the 13x13 has the appearance of a concert shell which is great for playback of everything. My TV sounds like a 5.2 system running through Klipsch's.

wdecho small World I listened to a pair of those Crowns might have been a 200 or 2000 series (know it started with two) last Saturday and was impressed. It was outside in a small shell used for live music and we had a four piece band entertaining us. The pair was slim drove four monitors. My system far outweighs that setup. I am medically retired and since 1991 had everything but the speakers and after making a speaker purchase in May I also bought a circa 1980 solid state amplifier. HiFi back then and sonically still silent adding nothing in the way of notice. I am pleased at the beautiful sound stage which playing classical music needs horsepower but I do not want, well maybe I do need to respect neighbors. The levels I listen to today could not be possible with my first amplifier a 35 watts per channel thd .05 in 1977. Guess I have not been convinced tubes or convinced the most really powerful wattages we can afford is not the ticket. I like 98dBs output really would not mind a couple of klipschorns falling into my hands 114 dBs?? Well two powerful amps will have to suffice...

I use a Ortofon 540 High Output MC. My only cartridge to track, think it is Telark, 1912 Overature, the recording of 70 calibre brass cannons, largest excursion by any recording or pickup cartridge. Music sounds fantastic with a Rega 3 and Grace 707 tonearm. Really a sweet looking tonearm...

I sorta doubt that. However, if that's the case, then I'll reopen my request for the Heritage Section that I posed many moons ago. I swear you wrote many moron's ago?

wdecho what happens to the sound if you sit two meters back from the wall instead of only one? My speakers manufacturer advise us to sit 1.5 times the distance speaker to speaker.I use two very high powered solid stat amplifiers. The reason is easy when you become aware that to raise the volume to where you can hear the change in volume from your speakers specifications. To hear a 3dBs rise in sound (where you actually here it get louder) you need a hundred fold more power. What I am saying is to hear an extra 3dBs over 1 watt you will need 100 watts. This is why I recommend buying the most power you can afford and one that has as high as possible dynamic range. I do not turn up the volume recklessly I use what it takes to reproduce the sound stage intended. Listen to a full Orchestra 30 watts does not cut it.

Max2 have you tried going to a live performance of a full Orchestra, chorale or solos on violins cello piano or the best a pipe organ? Try it? I think when you become aware of the "soundstage layout", how each instrument actually sounds. We can audition various equipment but what I have read made no mention of coloration, depth and/or is everything bunches up or properly spread out. At our specialty high end stores what happens when they do not carry the product line and the phone book does not reveal any shops close enough to give a listen. I bought every piece of reproduction after maybe one listen some just by the promising specifications. Total Harmonic Distortion tells you how much that new (or old) piece can accurately reproduce the highs, lows, ups or downs of Classical, Jazz, Hard/Soft Rock,Hip-Hop Rap whatever out of two speakers. What do I mean up or downs? The sound of violins are down slightly to the left running over to the viola's while the kettle drums are higher up and about forty feet back on the stage. If you don't listen to the equipment you can know by the specifications that what you buy, new or used, is the sound you know you need. Buying used, or even new, from EBay the seller has a rating and I stick with sellers rated at 100%. I do not think if I had the dough I will not buy from a high end specialized shop but I am completely satisfied with my 2 speaker system and if I struck it rich there is nothing I'd change with my Amp/Preamp, two different Amplifiers I spent a total of $178 including shipping for "newest", $200 for oldest solid state equipment. Reference or Monitor Speakers by their definition is faithful to everything we need to hear. Klipsch References are not supposed to vary from Polk Reference as long as the specifications are Identical. The difference we will hear is when a 98dbs output at 1 watt THD .5 is compared to a 95dBs output at 1 watt THD .0005. Know that the 98dBs speaker amplified by a 50 watt tube or solid state might clip at 59 watts won't sound better than a 95dBs speaker driven by amps able to output 300 watts at clipping. Knowing the damping factor, dynamic range, total harmonic distortion and signal to noise is important. Look for these statistics and ask the salesman for these facts. Distortion less than .5 but lower numbers such as .05 or .005 is what is needed. Ruler flat 20Hz to 20kHz is great but many can be +3dBs or -3dBs or vary between -/+ in for areas hopefully not where speakers sound changeover from woofers to midrange, midrange to tweeters. Again bragging my amps are ruler flat 30Hz to 250kHz (1Hz -3 to +0 at 250kHz) damping factor over 150, dynamic range 2.5, Bass (biwired) total harmonic distortion .05 from midbass to tweeters .005. Despite somebody having the same equipment everything ends up sounding different? Confusing, it happens! My listening room is 11 feet wide at speakers and 13 feet deep to opposite wall and at speakers 7 foot ceiling at opposite wall 10 feet. I found Reference speakers 98dBs @ 1 watt driven with up to a tad over 600 watts per speaker in my listening space will deliver perfectly reproduce sound at levels up to 115dBs maybe 120dBs. I must be lucky at music because I have fantastic faithfulness reproduced so dang cheaply. Two Klipsch Reference-28F's even doing surround sound amazing considering the same spec'd system in a same sized room can sound so different...

I am retired from everything. I am happy that my 2 speaker system creates and maintains a sound stage. I am dumb but I know how each instrument sounds and where it is placed. So my system reproduces sound where "Is it Live or is it Memorex" is the theme. I am no longer looking to change anything about my share. I have arched ceilings so the speakers go on the side where the wall is the shortest. The floor is hard and reflective so my ceiling absorbs. Behind the speakers it is flat smooth and hard while the wall behind my listening position has shelves. The wall on the right is vacant and smooth while the wall to my left possesses all of my media. Between the speakers sets my antique equipment cabinet having removed the 1950 tube system replacement circa 1980 solid state equipment that delivers the maximum power my new Klipsch R-28F's are supposed to accept. This was the finishing touch an acoustic environment for the hobby I love. This has to be the best hobby a man can have. Hot damn time to get back to tweaking my ears...