adam2434

Based on a little research, $400-500 appears to be the typical price range for a pair of Forte in working condition. Does this sound about right for a pair in working condition with some moderate cabinet and grill wear and tear?

Regarding portability, is the DAC for headphones or do you connect it to a full system?

I bought a DC-1 for my main system and liked it so much that I bought another one for a second system. When I bought the DC-1 for the main system, I also owned a MSB Nelson Link DAC III with P1000 power supply and a Music Hall DAC 25.2. After extensive A-B'ing, I found the DC-1 to be superior to the other 2, so I sold the MSB and Music Hall DACs. I have not felt the need to consider a DAC upgrade since owning the DC-1. The DC-1 can also drive an amp directly with no additional preamp in the system. I run the main system this way most of the time: DC-1 connected directly to a Rotel RB-1582 MkII via balanced interconnects. Very clean and transparent sound is how I would describe it.

Is your USB DAC connected to a separate system for your computer, or is it connected to the system in your signature?

I also posted in the other thread with the same title. I also owned the RP-280F and felt like they could be bright and a bit piercing. Reducing treble with the tone control helped, but I ultimately sold them and bought RF-7 II, which are still on the brighter side, but more balanced than the RP-280F, IMO. The other strengths of the RF-7 II outweigh the brightness and need for a little treble reduction. Again, just my opinion. On the question of L-pads, they were used in a lot of speakers into the 1980’s. They are used in some current speakers too – for example, some Revel models and JBL studio monitors. I do wonder why they’ve fallen out of favor for home speakers. They do provide some useful adjustment for room and taste, IMO. I would be curious to hear folks thoughts on why they have become much less common in the last couple decades. I can honestly say that that I’ve thought to myself that it would have been great if the RP-280F and RF-7 II had L-pads for tweeter output, as that might have addressed my perception of brightness, without the need for tone control adjustment. Certainly, there are other ways to address perception of brightness (tone controls, EQ, additional room treatments, etc.). However, L-pads seem to be a simple “factory” way of adjusting treble output. I wonder how many folks that have written Klipsch off as “too bright” would have a different opinion if they could reduce the tweeter output with a factory L-pad? Not trying to stir the pot, just food for thought. I’m also the guy that posted that I would like to hear Heritage speakers at some point, as I’ve only heard the RP-280F, RB-81 II, and RF-7 II. I also posted that I am from the Cinci area.

Is 38Hz anechoic? Perhaps they dig a few Hz deeper in-room? Regardless, 38Hz would be full-range enough for me.

Maybe just keep it 2 channel? If that is a possibility, I would recommend a used Rotel RX-1052, if you can find one. I got one for around $200 on eBay (made in '08). It powers my RF-7 II to the highest volume I can stand in a large room. You could also look for used integrated amps from Yamaha, NAD, Rotel, etc.

If that was in response to my post above, my question was for the folks who do not use tone controls and EQ, but achieve their perfect tonal balance. I wonder how many of them measured their room characteristics, then somehow choose the perfect speakers to complement the room. I would guess not many. I can say that in my main system, I must be on the lucky side, because I feel that the tonal balance is very good without EQ or tone controls. It's the RF-7 II in the secondary system that need some treble reduction to sound balanced. I totally get what you are saying, and have been half-temped to buy a mic and download REW for the fun of it. It would be very interesting to correlate in-room frequency response to perception of tonal balance across several speakers. My reservation is that my somewhat OCD nature might send me in several new directions to fix the "flaws" in the REW plots, even if I felt the speaker had good tonal balance without EQ.

With the same room and gear, one pair of speakers can sound dull and lifeless, and another pair can sound bright and fatiguing (I have personal experience with this). This makes it difficult to understand the room’s and electronics’ contribution to the tonal balance. This could send one down the “try this, try that” rabbit hole. For the folks that have found "your" perfect tonal balance without use of tone controls/EQ - did you have to go through multiple electronics/speaker/room treatment iterations, or did you just get lucky?

There are additional impressions/comparisons in this thread. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/161126-just-got-rp-280f-curious-about-rf-7-ii/&page=4 I personally feel that the RF-7 II are a significant upgrade vs. the RP-280F. I can't quantify an upgrade "percentage", but certainly feel that the RF-7 II are worth the price I paid, around $1,800/pair.

I have the same Sony BD player are there are a few audio settings (like audio filter), but that would not apply to a digital output like HDMI or spdif. You might also want to try the Sony's optical or coax spdif digital output for CDs. Technically, the HDMI and optical/coax should output the same 16/44.1 PCM signal for CDs, but might be worth experimenting with the optical/coax output for CDs. Interesting that the Denon sounds better to you. Assuming the Denon only has analog outputs and assuming you use bass management in the NAD, the NAD is most likely converting the Denon's analog signal to digital for DSP manipulation of the signal for bass management, channel delays/distances, etc. The NAD would also have a digital to analog conversion prior to amplification. In this case, the signal is ultimately converted to analog by the NAD's DAC, as is the case when the signal comes from a digital output like HDMI and optical/coax. Now, if you use some type of direct mode on the NAD for CDs that eliminates the analog to digital and digital to analog conversions (no bass management or any other processing), you would be hearing the Denon's DAC only, as the NAD's ADC and DAC would not be in the signal path. This could certainly explain differences in sound quality with the Denon.

Are you using the analog outputs from the Sony ES and Denon? I assume that's why you're hearing a difference. Have you tried a digital connection via HDMI or spdif to the AVR? This way, you are only using the AVR's DAC and are avoiding an A-D conversion in the AVR if you use bass management or any other AVR processing for CDs.

Could you perhaps start a thread to discuss features, specs, suggestions, etc.? I have a few questions and suggestions, and imagine others do to.

Might also check out the Parasound Halo P5 and P7.

I wonder if The Fifteens use DSP for the crossover and/or equalization? Also, is the 800Hz crossover on the low side for a 1.75" driver? For example, the RF-7 II crossover is 1,200Hz.

Per the video, the RF-7 III drivers have been refined/enhanced. Curious to know the specifics and also whether the crossover was changed...

With so many unique, new products in several categories, does Klipsch do all the design and engineering in-house, I wonder? If, so, they must have quite the design and engineering team. Regarding the integrated amp, looks very nice with lots of features for the money. However, IMO, it needs more spdif inputs to be the hub of an AV system. I think there is only 1 optical spdif input. If one uses the optical for their TV audio connection, there would be no additional digital inputs for audio streaming devices such as a Sonos Connect or Chromecast Audio, etc. I'm also curious about the power rating specifics.

I don’t like using tone controls from a philosophical standpoint. IMO, they are a “blunt force” way of adjusting tonal balance and put additional circuitry in the signal path. However, from a practical standpoint, I do use them in a couple a couple systems/situations: 1) RF-7 II: I reduce the treble to -2 on the Rotel RX-1052 2-ch receiver that powers them in a secondary 2-ch system. IMO, the tonal balance is too bright without some treble reduction. I previously ran Def Tech BP-10B and Energy RC-70 with flat tone controls in this room/system. Actually, the RC-70 sounded a bit dull and dark in this room/system, but I never bumped the treble up with them. Here’s where I’ve kind of come to regarding perfect tonal balance without using tone controls or EQ: I don’t like using tone controls, but the RF-7 II have other strengths/benefits that make we willing to make the compromise of reducing the treble a bit. Am I going to find a perfectly tonally balanced speaker (in this room with my ears) for $1,800/pair (RF-7 II B-stock price) that can match the dynamics, bass extension, and ability to play loud without strain powered by the Rotel RX-1052? Not sure…maybe…perhaps DIY or something used? Buying, auditioning, and selling floorstanding speakers can quickly become a pain…been there, done that. 2) Outdoor patio speakers: I increase the bass to near max to compensate for the lack of boundary reinforcement and relatively small size of the speakers. Folks have an aversion to tone controls, but what about sophisticated EQ implementations based on REW, Dirac, etc.?

Very unique new product line-up - some pretty neat products there. I wonder if the RF-7 III uses the same drivers and crossover as the RF-7 II. The 10" drivers look the same. The announcement only mentions "aesthetics and styling" updates and a new horn design (looks like the RP horn). It would be cool if the new horn design could be retrofit to the RF-7 II, assuming it is an audible improvement.

Does backing the treble knob down a few notches help? Also, do you have a reflective table in front of the MLP? BTW, I have two DC-1 DACs, which are used in 2 different systems with several different speakers. That DAC is not the source of your harshness, based on my experience. The speakers just may not be for your ears and your room...and that's ok. Anyone who's been into this hobby for a while has likely owned speakers that ultimately didn't float their boat.

That should not matter, as hardwired or wireless, you are on the same network. My PC is also hardwired to my router, so I need to set up the CA and try plex to stream flac for kicks.

Glad you're liking it. Are you using the analog output, or have you tried the digital output with a DAC/Pre-pro/AVR? Also, have you tied to stream music files from your PC? I'm curious about how (and how well) this works, but have not tried it yet, since I use a Sonos Connect. I have a CA still in the box that I bought on a whim (after setting one up for my daughter). I don't currently have a use for it, and bought it to "play around" when I have some time. Adam

So, you have RF-7 II's without the stock feet/spike kit? If so, did you contact Klipsch to determine if they can be ordered, or maybe even shipped free if you bought new RF-7 II and they were missing from the box? Youthman's pic shows the stock feet. The speakers also ship with spikes that screw into the feet.

No experience with it. They are known for small, cheap class D amps. Worth a shot maybe, and you can always sell it and most likely break even. I originally recommended the Schiit Modi 2 Uber because the total price was close to the Audioengine B1. Plus, the Schiit is Made in the USA.

Bill, yes, the output jack is for both 3.5mm analog and mini optical. If you try a DAC, I recommend you try a free trial of Spotify Premium to experience some pretty high quality streaming. We do the family plan for $15/month, so my kids and wife can also take advantage of the Premium features. Also, make sure you have the audio set to "Full Dynamic Range" on the CA.