Peter P.

My label was posted directly above the terminals and the switch. It can be seen in THIS THREAD.

The terminals above the switch are the inputs to the kg sw from your source. The terminals adjacent to the switch go to your regular speakers. I have one and just checked the label.

Wire the room for those side speakers BEFORE construction is complete. Even if blank outlet plates cover the wiring and you never realize your dream, at least the wiring is in place. Obviously, the same holds true for all the other electronics-including power and speaker wiring at the front of the room.

You may not need an amp, but a preamp/AV processor. You might be able to repurpose an A/V receiver. Those instructions you provided say the TV must be set to PCM (or Stereo only). Have you experimented with those settings?

My guess is, you have to run the optical audio output from the TV to an A/V receiver and not directly into the speakers. Your speakers are probably not meant to be connected to a TV's optical audio output but rather a solely audio output such as a CD player with an optical jack. The TV's optical audio output probably needs to be connected to an A/V receiver and then to a pair of passive speakers vs. directly into the powered speakers.

There must be audio settings in your TV that's sending the dialog to a dedicated center channel which your TV perceived was the soundbar. You have to tell your TV (or whatever controls the audio of your A/V system) that you only have two front speakers. You'll probably also have to specify they are SMALL vs. LARGE. So experiment with the TV's audio settings. What's the make and model of the TV?

Don't laugh; I seem to recall an article in Stereo Review decades ago where they reviewed a reader's system. It had Klipschorns if I recall correctly. To prevent standing waves or some other audible demon, he had the contract tilt (top to bottom) the walls 2 degrees! Not sure whether it was just the side walls or all four.

My only advice is, stacks of equipment where you have to kneel down to turn on/off/adjust/play a record, etc. are just dumb. Arrange the equipment so you can access it while standing. That means some sort of shelving. And don't forget easy access to the wiring; maybe a rack which swings out on hinges or rolls on casters or, in a closet-like setting where there's easy access from the rear. I'm sure an A/V room design company would have all sorts of good looking solutions.

Try connecting the speakers to the other set of terminals in the photo to see if the problem persists.

Place a straight edge against the front baffle. It looks like the lower edge of the baffle is bowed inward. You might be able to fill the gap with wood putty or bondo, but I don't think you'll see a smooth transition from the bondo to the wood after sanding and painting. I'd also be worried about the grilles fitting after the work is done. I'd suggest leaving it as-is, removing the drivers and flowing some glue into the joint from the inside of the cabinet. Once the grille is on I expect you won't notice the imperfection, and I doubt that flaw will hamper the application of veneer. I bought a used a pair of Quartets with water damage on the top of one so bad it rippled the veneer and the wood beneath it. I left it as-is.

THAT is cool! I'd love to hear how they sound.

I don't believe this is true regarding the subwoofer amplifier. My SVS subwoofer has a non-polarized plug.

GET RID OF THE SPLITTER CABLE! You need ONE RCA jack from the receiver to connect to only ONE jack on the subwoofer, and that's the jack labeled "LFE". You're half way there!

The manual for your Denon receiver shows you connect ONE RCA cable from the PRE-OUT Subwoofer jack to ONE subwoofer. Do NOT connect BOTH PRE-OUT Subwoofer jacks to BOTH jacks on one subwoofer.

Shouldn't matter whether the sub is plugged in to the surge protector. I'd plug it in to the surge protector well, to protect it! Since your sub has an LFE input, if your amp/receiver has an LFE output, then you will use just the white RCA cable and white jack on both and not connect anything to the red input on the sub.

No need for an electrician. You can easily verify your outlet is wired correctly with one of these. Just plug into the outlet and interpret the lights. If the subwoofer gives you a shock even with the connection to your stereo removed (RCA cables), then try reversing the plug in the outlet. Try it with every outlet in your house. Try it at a friend's house. These tests will give you a clue as to whether it's the subwoofer or the house wiring. If it's the subwoofer, send it out for service.

Blending subs to a pair of bookshelf speakers would be easy IF you have an amp/receiver with flexible integration settings, mostly high and low pass filtering for the sub and satellites separately. If you're just playing music, it's hard to find a 2 channel power source with such capabilities, or it's expensive, or you have to use a home theater receiver just for music to get the tuning options.. There's definitely a physical matching of speaker to room not just for acoustic issues but aesthetically a speaker may visually dominate a room, or take up so much space as to be an imposition when moving about in a room. Those deep towers do tend to stick out into the room some.

Definitely verify the outlet is wired correctly.

I think you can save some money and get a speaker that will take up less room without a loss in performance, by choosing the RP-6000F instead. I think a slightly smaller package will be more appropriate for your room size, including the RP-5000F. Money is an issue, and room size is definitely a consideration.

I have no idea if Heresy I's would have the foam, and I don't know when they started adding it. Good question though; perhaps a knowledgeable Heresy historian here will have the answer.

I'd advise against using an orbital sander. Any sanding not in the direction of the grain can raise the grain, resulting in the "fluffy white fibers" the OP is experiencing. Hand sanding or a belt sander in the direction of the grain only would be safer.

It can kill subwoofers, too!

Slip a strip of drywall through the hole long enough to bridge the span. Secure it to the drywall with drywall screws. Locate and mark the center of the hole on the "bridging strip". Then use the circle cutter to cut the larger hole; the pilot bit on the circle cutter will engage the bridging strip, enabling you to center your new 10" hole.

I have an SVS SB-1000 (now the SB-1000 Pro). Easy to order, great customer service answering tech questions. The sub does all I want with my Heresy's. I bought one from their Outlet link and saved a few bucks. I also figured matching the woofer size of the sub to the Heresy's would mean something matching/performance-wise, but I have no proof. I chose a sealed model to match the sealed performance of the Heresy.

Your own experience should give you enough data points to tell you what you read on the facebook klipsch group is what you'd expect from people smoking crack.