Oicu812

They're not THAT much bigger than the Jubilee bass bins, right? You could make Jubilee XL's!

I move so slowly that I become invisible...

Someone is going to get a real deal. Needs woofers. https://www.ebay.com/itm/133908114839?hash=item1f2d8bad97:g:lEUAAOSwmvRhbkm7 Klipsch MWM Bass Horns - Unloaded | eBay Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Klipsch MWM Bass Horns - Unloaded at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products! www.ebay.com 

You should pick these up, that's a good price even with the marking. They aren't 1981, they are most likely 1977 with those badges. I have an identical pair of Heresy 'E' Walnut Oiled (Exported to Germany) from '77 with the same badges (and thankfully without the offending flowerpot ghost...)

That does seem way cheap. Somebody go grab this one, especially since he says he can demo it for you with a pair of Belles!

@Travis In Austin Would you like to move this thread to "Technical/Modifications" for us, please? Thank you in advance!

Okay @bigsled, here is a thread you need to read, if you want to see awesome refinishing of speakers. Simply amazing work!

How gorgeous are these??? How could you buy these at retail and only use them once?

I like the Rosewood. Hell, I like all the veneers they used, the wilder the pattern the better IMHO. A treat for the eyes as well as the ears. Generally, the grain will take the darker stain and the smoother wood will take less of it. With practice you can achieve the look you want. Buy several cans of different stains and try them out on the back corners. Sometimes you can set a base gold, and then use multiple darker stains on top successfully. I've had to do that to match a repair patch to the older color and finish on antique pieces I was working on... I personally haven't finished / refinished a birch Klipsch set as of yet, so I don't know how your birch will take stain. One technique for darker grain is to apply darker stain with a small paintbrush and let it sit. Then you can take a rag barely moistened with stain to wipe it down and blend it in. This allows you to control how an area will take, using it more like a paint (almost). If you want something more pronounced than the birch, look at the veneer offerings online. They've got the technology down to the point where you can iron on your own veneer. Check it out, and make sure you also include the phrase "book match" in some of your searches. There are some incredible pieces available. My personal favorite is a birds-eye maple, with a light golden stain. Here's an identical chest to one I got at a flea market on the cheap because it was black. When refinished it looked exactly like this: Here are some random examples from the web: Feel free to ask any questions you like. In my past I've done antique restoration and custom finishes for clients. But there are people around with even more experience, maybe they will jump into the conversation.

You really should remove all internals, woofers, horns, crossovers, etc. before doing any type of wood or finish work. You should consider using paint remover rather than trying to sand off the black paint. The paint gets down into the grain of the wood, and if you try only sanding you will have to remove a lot more veneer than necessary. Most paint strippers will "raise the grain", making it stand out and become fuzzy. A very light sanding will resolve this before you add stain. The resulting wood will be "in the white", having no real color. If you want that glow seen in your picture, you should follow the staining procedures used for antiques. First use a golden / yellow based stain for the first layer. I would suggest using a "Golden Oak" stain for the base layer. Make absolutely sure you are using a stain only product, not a stain / finish combo. If you use a combo you will fill the wood and no further color can be added. For the secondary / tertiary stain layers, I would use either a dark walnut for a mainly brown top color, or you can use something with a slight reddish cast if that is preferable to you. If you are going to use a lacquer finish, I would suggest using the appropriate sanding sealer in a couple of light coats with a light sanding between them. This will lock in your colors and fill the wood grain for a smoother top finish. If you have any further questions, please let me know.

Are you on the road yet?

@Theo GREAT looking speakers at a fantastic price!!! These should move quickly.

For a quick sale, $2,500 - $3k. You might have a wait if much above the 3 grand mark (but this is my own opinion). YMMV.

I just saw this listing myself and was going to post it.

Stupid double post...

The JBL's have an "airy" hiss in the vocal range. The K's don't, and they sound more forward and "connected" on the vocals minus the noise. Try replaying the first 32 bars on each with your volume set at 50%, and tell me if you think I'm a nutter. I would like to know your opinion. Reference or not (on the JBL side...), I think I prefer the Klipsch sound comparing the two.

I would think that it would be desirable to have your crossover as low as possible. 800hz is definitely in the human voice range, and I think the benefit is to get as much of the audio spectrum into the compression driver / horn setup as you can. Maybe someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems to me that the mid horn/driver pair has less distortion than a woofer / subwoofer cone. I play around with an online tone generator when chatting about tonal ranges, or working on crossovers (just so that I have a mental gauge for what "X" hz works out to be): https://www.szynalski.com/tone-generator/

I absolutely adore my CF3 V1's. Roy DEFINITELY nailed these.

You should pick them up. You will not lose any money, and you can play with your "money in the bank"!

I wish I was closer to Vegas. Free bump on me for an awesome Heresy deal.

You''re right, they are 1's and not 2's. Correcting it now.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/390704655784864 Klipsch Heresy Speakers w/upgraded Crites tweeters and crossovers. W/matching oak stands - Speakers & Subwoofers - Clermont, Florida | Facebook Marketplace Recently upgraded with Crites tweeters and crossovers. The cabinets were refinished and look better than new. The sound is absolutely amazing. Comes with custom made matching oak stands www.facebook.com 

I think that they are a great deal at the $300 price point. The least expensive "Heresy 3" around. When I picked them up, I was amazed at the condition. No gunk in the rat fur. At all. No scratches, dings, or dents. No light rust patina on the screw heads. I guess that you can't get any closer in condition to a brand new speaker. I wonder how many people passed on them because they were "Professional" models, or because they only have 1/4" mono input jacks... As @Dave A so eloquently put it: “Pro stuff IS the best secret. Hands down no contest. If all you are looking for is awesome sound avoid veneer.”

I was only able to see the single speaker that was outside on the porch. They have another indoors, but I wasn't going to ask the lady to let me inside whilst hubby was away. So who knows what shape that one is in, due to no photos of it in the ad.

That logo is actually embedded. Part of the laminate. The wood is swollen, the horns are not good, and the joints are all coming apart. Most things are made of particle chip board and the laminate is put on with carpet tacks. The top and bottom pieces on the horns are a thin layer of fiberglass that does not seal on the sides. The drivers are the only value, and there was no way for me to see the woofers.