glens

Two years old thread...

Not arguing that 100V caps are insufficient, but it would only take 50V rails, fully utilized, to get the cap seeing the 100V differential there.

Go to the first post, follow the link therein, and gander closely at pics 3, 6, and 7. Sure looks to me like mitred plywood. That's all I'm saying. If they applied a veneer to those edges to make it look like plywood which is mitred, they did a damn good job. Personally I think the price meeds to drop quite a bit further based on what you've said, since now I wonder (as much as I even care) whether the boxes themselves are even original.

A Viet Cong ballroom dance? Without reviewing the photos I've gotta say the shot of the top right rear corner with the chip looked a lot like mitred plywood as I recall. So there's that. Yeah, the thread sure got clustered...

Oh, you mean garland!

Like the "original" cap with the split jacket in the other speaker? Might get lucky on that one and find a printed value underneath. The cap has to get replaced anyway.

An "unlearned" visitor would certainly appreciate the quality of sound, but I wouldn't be surprised by cartoon bubbles over their head which read "Wow, that really sounds great!" and "You invested what?!"

Outdoor as to the source, yet indoor (even more than usual) as to the reverb. Getting great sound would be akin to getting all the meat in as few pieces possible from a shagbark hickory nut (well worth the effort if you can find some neither the worms nor squirrels got first - had a few bumper crops so I know). Definitely want to avoid speakers which splash sound around unevenly (vs. frequency) in that room!

I don't think so. One is from the RP line and the other from the "Reference"(Best Buy) line. Also not comparable models either. The RP has dual 4" woofers while the R has a single 6.5" woofer.  vs   Bill I was thinking more generally, not the two he mentioned specifically. Not answering well, I merely went general - based on very limited understanding. See the screenshot. 6 lb. difference. Might be the weight of the magnets, might be cabinet bracing, etc. As far as sound quality difference, likely some would hear it, some wouldn't?

Those Craigs List speakers might be in perfect condition, and it may just be JPEG artifacts, but the drone dust caps look a little beat. Not saying that would make them rejects, but not quite perfect...

Aren't they basically the same but for vinyl versus veneer & maybe trim? (And perhaps internal bracing?)

The other thread says there was solely the woofers inside.

Yeah, it's right up there with the one about the marionette that wanted to be a real boy. Either he bought them new or he didn't. If he did he messed with them, or allowed it to be done. The good thing is now they'll be right or better. I can't think of any valid reason to do what was done, but someone thought differently.

Like I said above, time to toss a coin. I like the darker cherry of the Cornwalls as opposed to that of the Fortes. Walnut is good, too, (it's what I got 'cause Momma nixed the [Forte III] distressed oak with lamb's wool grilles) but since black walnut is pretty much a weed around here I abide it more than love it. I've seen the insides of too many...

Would have worked like a charm... This ain't my first rodeo. Yep, and a handle.

The newer style that's a barrel with a squiggly seam rather scare me. Haven't fondled one but they sure like like worn sockets a'coming with much use.

Two out of three coin tosses. Make that three out of five...

https://www.nema.org/Technical/Documents/Bull_88_reaffirmed_12_15_11.pdf

If considering a "compression driver" to only have the appearance of something you'd see in an old Altec, JBL, EV, etc. catalog where it appears to be just the magnet structure with a dome, but emitting sound off the back of that dome out the back, then this question would make great sense. But if you consider a 15" "standard" woofer mounted to a board with just a slot opening (much smaller than the area of the cone), like you'd have in a LaScala, for example, or a dome tweeter with an inverse dome mounted just in front of it (which is what it appears is in my Forte III), then it's easy (er?) to understand there are alternate ways to produce compression with a driver.

By the looks of things that box would work in reverse as well, feeding the "output" you could send the signal to any of the other "input"s one at a time.

Remove all the screws, then run a larger screw into one of the holes so the threads bite good. Then lay a wide(-enough) putty-style knife down flat on the not hatch and use a prying tool against said knife to lift that larger screw. That's the first method I'd try. Hope you find your missing crossover bits in there!

See? I didn't even get a chance! I'm pretty sure there should be a coil in series then a capacitor in parallel with the feed to the woofer. And they're both missing... What I needed to check (still do) is if there's more. Another thing that would be important at this point is to double-check EVERYTHING ELSE!

What's going between the board and external connection box is workable as is. The main problem I see is there's nothing hooked to the inside screw at position #4! I'm not familiar with that network and by the time I correlate what's what with the schematic, maybe someone who can tell just by looking will chime in. Let's see...

I've got the type of demeanor that would question everything about those speakers now. Not to say I wouldn't happily fix and use them. I'd go over everything with a fine-tooth comb, for sure.

Yep!