glens

No diodes in this network, and like I said, the network is proper for the drivers. If one changes the network they'll need to change the drivers and vice versa. It is what it is and except for maybe the caps is the best it can be without "re-inventing the wheel." If a person thought they'd never pour coals to the fire and thought the thermal switch (basically a self-resetting fuse) detracted from the signal going to the tweeter, then it'd be a simple matter to short the switch/resistor pair with a clip-on jumper and see if it changes the sound any whatsoever, making it permanent if desired. Personally, it'd be a waste of time.

Off by one ain't half bad unless you're using a 1-bit "word".

Copper covered in insulation.

Funny, I'd use the term jounce for the topic at hand. Jounce (jouns), v. t. & i. [imp. & p. p. Jounced (jounst); p. pr. & vb. n. Jouncing (joun"s[i^]ng).] To jolt; to shake, especially by rough riding or by driving over obstructions. [1913 Webster] Jerk, to me, has usually implied some direct (mis?)application of energy while the motion of a speaker cone during transportation would be the result of an indirect application of energy to it, thus somehow different. Much the same as when teaching a child to drive a stick-shift, I'd say they were jerking the car, not jerking me. I always try to learn something new every day, I guess this was it for today. There's a whole slew of concepts relating to jerk as a physics phenomenon. I'd still be surprised to hear of very many engineers using the term in the wikipedia sense.

More likely a regional engineering term. The other usage of that term is pretty much universal. I know my wife isn't speaking in engineering terms when she uses the word!

I was referring to the specific use being discussed. It will not slide off the furniture movers. They have a foam on top which grips and holds them to what's sitting on them, and they're very slippery on their bottom. I've moved countless items out of and back into place doing floor covering work and the only reason I've ever had one come out in use is when the object is picked up or tipped while in motion. You now have more than enough information/ideas to do what needs to be done. I'm surprised it isn't already.

That second post is what I'm talking about and is the option I'd go with. They can be positioned a little more discretely than in that photo.

All of that makes sense, but you'd said construction time equaled 6 Khorn bins. I merely wanted to know how much more complicated the (hidden) area behind the doghouse is than for the LaScala as a point of reference. I could see construction time being perhaps a bit more than for a LaScala, but nowhere near that of even a single Khorn. Unless you're saying the increased cost of the low-volume single-use parts equaled the cost of constructing 6 Khorn bins, not that the construction itself did. That might make more sense, but isn't the message I got from your other post.

The protection, on the tweeter only, is merely a thermal switch in parallel with a resistor which maintains a load behind the crossover parts to protect the amp if/when the switch opens (and the tweeter didn't blow). I suppose it's possible the switch is adding a small part of an ohm, but if the tweeter is 8 ohms and the switch is (it's not) at 1 ohm, that'd only a 1dB reductIon in output. No reduction in sound quality to afford protection. Some folks may say there's a difference but there are also some folks that hear difference in power cords, speaker wire alloy, capacitor orientation, etc. It's a non-issue, most certainly, in this case. A larger issue would be the woofer which may be designed for less lower-bass to trade for increased output. The balance of the sound with those speakers is as good as it can be when the stock crossovers are used. So long as the capacitors are within spec.

They ought to fairly affordable if the alternative to the seller is destruction. Where was this?

No offence intended, but I'm having a little trouble understanding that. How much different is it than the LaScala behind the doghouse?

I'd be inclined to leave them as-is unless just maybe freshen the capacitors if you don't think they sound like they should. The protection is okay to leave in and in all respects the crossover design is proper for the speaker - if it's original.

Doesn't try to slip off. Just tip the speaker a little and stick the two under those corners, repeat (it's a tad more difficult for the second two because the speaker will want to slide - might have to back it up with your foot).

I wouldn't do that. Home Depot, et al, have furniture sliders, plastic on the bottom with foam on the top. I've got some that are barely larger than a silver dollar and recommend that's what you use without flipping the speakers or pulling the buttons. The unfastened block is a good idea. You might consider getting a paving brick, a small entry rug to cut up, and a small container of adhesive to glue the rug pieces cut to fit to the brick. It would be less likely to slide around than a piece of wood, would absorb impacts better before moving not as far, and wrapped, would not mar any surfaces.

I don't know how correct it is in today's environment to discuss the exploitation of defenseless little lambs...

Definitely an option, but one which would surely cost more than the purchase of a professional-quality hammer drill alone.

I don't like to borrow power tools. If it fails for any reason I'd be buying a new tool and then not owning it. My rule of thumb is if rental is more than a third the cost of buying, I'll generally buy, unless I expect more than a couple uses. In my experience (several thousand of them) the failure rate (on the first insertion) is too high to use them for something like the stop you showed in a residence. A heavy duty stop like that is definitely needed for commercial doors/usage, a bit overkill perhaps for this scenario. At any rate, tapcons don't do well with re-use of the hole - it's not like cutting threads in wood (better) or steel (best). If there's insufficient room to walk the speaker out around a stop in that location then perhaps installing the stop you specified (with good advice on the drilling) with a masonry nail dropped into a just-oversized hole would be a better solution. The stop could be picked straight up for removal but would still provide suitability of purpose, though heavy usage as a stop could still fracture the tile. [Edit to add] Could use a wood screw into an inserted plug instead of that last notion. Might be the best combination of all aspects involved.

Those stops typically have a machine-threaded hole in their base and a screw with machine threads on one end and wood-screw threads on the other. The two ends have different thread pitches and you adjust the final (tight) orientation of the stop by adjusting the screw in the substrate. I'd have one beer and one shot each end of the task. Running a cord, drilling, shop-vac-ing, installing - 10 or 15 minutes all-in. The pin you suggested would work but may damage the door and/or pose a nasty safety hazard. As well might chip the tile if called upon to perform its task of saving the speaker. You'll not get a perfectly-edged hole in the tile (by the way, don't engage the hammer action until you're about as deep as the width of the bit, and then only use enough pressure as necessary to make reasonable time through the tile; then you can lean into it for the "cement") and the foot of the stop will atone for that (any) sin.

But with the "podium", the tweeter moving forward could cause the cabinet to move backward instead (and the other way around) with the result being no sound emanating from the tweeter dome, but from the face of the cabinet instead. No thanks!

Exactly how I would do it if I were to do it. The only reason would be for nostalgia-time on the 30 or so LPs from my youth, wherever they may be at the moment...

Easy. Rent a hammer drill (not a rotary hammer, which has a piston driving an internal "hammer" via air spring - a hammer drill is just like a "regular" drill but as you press it causes the chuck, which has serrations, to "interface" with fixed serrations making it go "dzdzdzdz" [high-pitched] as opposed to the rotary hammer's lower-pitched "thwacks") and drill through to the wood below. If it's on concrete, even better - drill a hole large enough for a fireplace matchstick (or small dowel), stick that in the hole and screw into it. No way I'd trust (or even use) a hinge-pin stop on an exterior door anyway. If you were halfway near I'd install it for you for a couple beers and a couple shots. Congrats! They're gorgeous.

Last I remember seeing, there is still the original configuration being made, too. Somewhat less expensive. But it's been several months...

Any orientation that has the cones/diaphragms vertical would pretty much be the same, wouldn't it? Except perhaps in the sense that as/if any time-related sag occurs it might be best of those four options to travel with them upside down to have the most room available for any travel-induced lateral-to-the-voice-coil movement (if that makes sense). Might be best either face up or down, though, to allow for less-damaging vertical movement as that seems would be the direction of the greatest jolts happening. In any event I'd want to be carrying the load in a vehicle that outweighs the load by the most (no tiny little U-Haul trailer for sure). Whatever has the best chance of soaking up surface imperfections before the speakers "feel" them. Congratulations on the find otherwise.

No pics of the cash? Must've not really got any!

Something like this is in order, for sure! Door stop