glens

Apples to apples on the equipment? If I've ever seen listed what his equipment is I've not paid attention. It could be possible for a vinyl-lover to have tens of thousands invested in vinyl play and tens in CD play...

Up to "11"

That may be what they did for "web" purposes, but perhaps not. My Forte IIIs (in walnut w/ black grilles 'cause momma said) sure look extremely close like that, too, in real life. Just get the stock walnut setup. You won't care one whit about the grille color once you've got them up and running. And do yourself a real favor by having Cory ship them to you new. He just might could customize the grilles, too.

Dave, in case you're unfamiliar with that recording I mentioned, I found this. Speaking of the CD pressing, they say "And if anyone can assemble a system that will reproduce those sounds cleanly, and without attenuating their low end, I would not at all be surprised to hear about broken windows."

I still have a copy of a Telarc LP of Tchaikosvky's 1812 Overture from the late '70s (a photo) with the cannon shots. Should have crawled inside and painted your way out.

Repetition often produces truth...

I can't answer that. You'd need the specs and instrumentation. Like I said, if all you ever throw at them is 11 watts they're most likely just fine.

I doubt 11 Watts would be much cause for concern, but Alnico's magnetic strength is known to weaken when subjected to at least high currents in the voice coil. I don't know how or whether time in and of itself takes a toll. But they can be re-energized in any event.

No accusations on my part. I merely find it interesting. Oftentimes stuff like the other video referred-to is not put together by the engineering staff, so there's that. A statement may be incorrect but that doesn't necessitate deception. A test of differential times for sound propagation not through crossovers should answer any question about relative path lengths not answered directly by one of the engineering staff in the know. For those who are interested in knowing such information.

That may be some to do with the network you used wherein (if) the high horn was attenuated. If there's a series resistor bypass it, or if an autoformer try another tap. I know, it's just an interim, but at least it'll give you tunes for work on the other bin (which you'd do well to paint the innards while they're readily available, it seems). I'd like to get down there some time this summer.

At a minimum in terms of change, the path from G to I should be figured on the plane slope from G to the point of the splitter (near B in the side view. Assuming G to I was initially figured horizontally this would add a few inches.

While it wouldn't account for ~30 additional inches, I'd say your "G" spot is in the wrong location (is it hard to find?). I'd put it midway on the middle horizontal member in the side view. And "I" seems somewhat arbitrary. A case could me made for it being on a line perpendicular from the wall to the edge of the cabinet (resulting in a loss). Could also be a "J" from your current "I" (the pair of them) some distance in front of the enclosure center point...

I can't feel it so I'd say start too high in grit number and work lower 'til it just starts to not seem like it'll take a year to do. And use a sanding block something the size of, say, a Zippo lighter maybe. You don't want the paper to sand between the ridges (like if you were pressing the paper with just your fingers or thumb) but the surface, overall, might not be truly flat enough any more for a very large block. And you don't have enough material depth to try to make it so. "This is taking too long" is a good feeling in this case as long as any progress is being made. I'd guess maybe (at least) 400 to start.

Bathwater + baby...

Could be a good guess but the bottom shown (with the scuff marks) is just as dark, and I'm gonna guess it wouldn't be. So I'd guess the rough grain isn't a result of sanding, but that of a chemical removal agent. Either sand it smooth along with stain to match, or duplicate everywhere else what was done already (it don't look half bad "from here").

Good enough, move on to something else.

I think you answered your own question. Undoubtedly they'll sound better with more / higher quality power, but you needn't rush to spend money. Good source material (if you don't have it) is a higher priority at this point, I'd think.

Wider sweet spot is obtained by crossing in front of you.

How much for the Quartets?

I'd go along with that notion. Transduction is harder to pull off well.

I'm not familiar with the specifics to which you're referring, but if the "mean path length" was from the throat to the last part enclosed, and the back is now closed in, which it looks to be by about 30" or so, then 66 would pretty much be 96 now?

Shouldn't be a problem in a loudspeaker crossover network unless, maybe, there is appreciable DC present at the amplifier output, or one is biasing their capacitors on purpose by other means.

Same to you!

Go to Walmart and get a cheap little prepaid phone. You don't have to even put the SIM card in it, much less activate it. You can use it like a little tablet. You can plug it into the Gate and bluetooth to it, thus to the Gate, thus to everything else. I got a sweet Moto E4 for $40 a couple years ago and use it for anything I want which doesn't require the phone network.

I believe Bluetooth is only an input on the 3, too, not an output.