MechEngVic

Pull the volume knob off and spray a little dielectric lube spray into the knob, maybe lay the sub on its face so the lube drips down inside the knob, work the knob back and forth a few times, and that should smooth the action of the knob. Many silicone sprays are dielectric but make sure.

Sound like you got a screaming deal! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Speaker-Repair-Adhesive-Foam-Edge-Spider-High-Strength-MI-3035-/112170335936?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0 If you've got to no-name woofers in one cabinet and 2 k-1056-k in the other, I'd swap two of them so you have one k-1056-k and one no name in the same cabinet in the same position just for peace of mind's sake.

@Tomtastic Any progress to report?

It's probably more important on a circuit board where there are a lot of energy fields that can interact with the capacitor. In a passive crossover there is much less interference.

A capacitor in series with a load is called a "high pass filter", so instead of thinking of a cap as something that blocks low frequencies, think of it as something that passes high frequencies. As the frequency gets lower, it passes with less and less "volume" (higher impedance). In passive crossover circuits, we are really only concerned with the frequencies between 20-20,000Hz. Your amplifier has taken care of the DC current, so a passive crossover doesn't see any DC under normal operation. Think of a capacitor as an AC resistor that increases in impedance (AC resistance) as the frequency decreases, and decreases in impedance as the frequency increases. Think of a cap's charge as the current (although they are related, they are not the same, this is just for comparison), then you can compare its action to Ohm's law for voltage. In a cap, as frequency increases, resistance decreases, and Ohm's law says that makes current increase. As frequency decreases, resistance increases, current decreases. Consider voltage constant: R x I = V, I = V/R, (R-, I+), (R+, I-), (just for explanation's sake as a musical signal's voltage is constantly changing). Then consider the capacitance formula: C = Q/V C=capacitance, Q=charge (related to current), V=voltage. You can see that at constant capacitance, as charge increases, voltage increases, and as charge decreases, voltage decreases. So it does go along with Ohm's law if you understand the relationship between charge and current. A moving charge creates current flow, so as a cap discharges it sends current to the load, then it draws current from the supply signal to recharge. Now when you consider this higher frequency/higher current/charge, lower frequency/lower current/charge signal going to an 8ohm load tweeter, you're talking about higher voltage as frequency increases, and a lower voltage as frequency decreases across the tweeter. At very low frequencies, the tweeter sees the cap as purely resistive, and at very high frequencies, the tweeter sees the capacitor as a short circuit.

The most expensive part of a capacitor is the winding process. Cheap mass produced caps are wound in fractions of a second, canned and coated in not much longer, by machines that do basic tension control. No attention is paid to the cap ends. Production runs are batch-tested and sold in huge numbers for next to nothing per unit. A high-end capacitor is usually wound by semi-automated, hand operated machines with precision starting tension control, tension monitoring throughout the winding process, and a special process to finish the outer windings. Special treatments are applied to the cap ends to help prevent unwanted effects. Of course, higher quality materials are used. The purpose of manufacturing a high end audio cap is to "build in" a certain sound signature, and more importantly, to maintain it consistently. A properly wound, evenly tensioned cap will measure more consistently throughout its range of operation. If you've ever measured caps in general, you know they can be all over the place depending on the voltages and currents applied, their temperature, and even the length of their leads! https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=arizona+capacitor

Yup. Still no second event with V5, the same tube that arced is warming up and behaving like it should. It's been several weeks. The amp is on every day from morning till night, playing music at sometimes loud volumes as well as you tube, shows, and movies.

Yeah, but it's way more complicated than that, but nothing that a dip in shark oil won't fix! (Shark, not snake) 🤪

He's saying that about a quarter of the spider was loose and he re-glued it. He's tested them and they seem to work fine. I would take them. Re-gluing a spider is a trivial matter.

I love how the popping and zapping widens the soundstage.

Tweeters and crossovers, I don't think the mids or the woofers need upgrading.

And your comment has a lot going on. I'm going to read read it carefully several times to hopefully digest what your saying, plus I'll have to carefully read the thread babadono posted where you also comment on the complexities of impedance. Based on what I've read so far from your comment and the other thread, I'm seeing that acoustic/mechanical properties of a speaker can increase OR decrease impedance...? I also noticed that the DCR that the OP measured is the same as you did.

Any cabinet offers a woofer a physical resistance at specific frequencies, whether sealed, ported, or horn loaded, due to resonant frequencies between the woofer's design and the cabinet's dimensions/features. This physical resistance in small regions of the woofer's frequency response cause spikes in the impedance of the woofer. These "spikes" raise the average impedance of the woofer/cabinet system. With a folded horn design, you get both impedance matching of the cabinet and of the horn.

My KLF-10's have dual 10" woofers wired in parallel. They are 8ohm woofers (6.6ohm DCR) which would make them a 4 ohm load to the amp, and I have found that using the 8ohm taps on my amp underpowers them. Thanks for the info.

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?forums/home-music-servers-computers-and-streamers.14/ https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?forums/digital-audio-converters-dacs.10/ https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?pages/Audio_DAC_Performance_Index/

Man, what do we have to do to get you to post some pics of those speakers?!?!

My instinct tells me that a Forte II's DC resistance should be a bit higher than that, maybe in the 5+ range. I don't doubt the Crite's crossover could be the reason for the drop in resistance. You should still consider them an 8ohm impedance speaker. If your amp has multiple ohm taps, you can use the 8 ohm or the 4 ohm with no troubles, the 4 ohm tap usually gives better low frequency response, 8 ohm tap gives better clarity. Usually.

True, the 80% usually applies to a driver as a opposed to a whole speaker. Can you expound on your statement: "Impedance, particularly when partnering with an amplifier (phase with impedance) can crush that amplifier." I'm interested in practical theories on how speaker impedance affects amplifiers.

Is this the only benefit of mumps?

Actually, I guess you measure voltage between the plates. How would I measure this?

So should I measure current between the plates a & k for each tube in the pair?

No, I've been waiting for some parts to come in before I opened the amp up. Delivery is slower now a days. The variable resistors were replaced and they seem to be working good, no rough spots while turning or jumps in resistance. What you mention about one tube drawing twice the current and the other drawing little or none, do you mean during warmup? And does that condition go back to normal once the amp is warm? I imagine if this condition existed while I was using the amp it would be noticeable, no? Poor SQ or arcing during use? Is been a few weeks now and the amp has been turning on, warning up, and running all day with no problems on a daily basis. V5 has only ever arced during warmup. So ever since the last arcing event, I have been making sure I have a music signal going to the amp before I turn it on (preamp already automatically turns on several seconds before amp), and I don't know if it's helping with arcing, but it hasn't happened again in weeks. Do you think having a signal running during amp warmup can have an effect on this issue?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't these emit sound from both sides front and rear?

I have a pair of super tweeters on top of my KLF-10's. I have tried them on every spot on top of the cabinet where they will fit. I have pointed them backwards, forwards, sideways, and tilted them at every possible angle. Because your Cornwalls are already playing full-range, a supplemental tweeter in a front firing position anywhere near the other drivers is gonna cause "comb filtering", sharp dips in the frequencies being reproduced by both the main drivers and the extra tweeter, where they are experiencing destructive interference/phase cancelling. You can put it flush with the front face, or aligned with the diaphragms of the CW's drivers, or anywhere in between, they will still interfere. If you move the tweeter all the way to the back of the speaker, you might lose the original comb filtering, but you will get reflections off the top of the cabinet and a whole different set of interferences. The idea of a rear-pointing tweeter comes from the premise that with a large enough shift in time alignment, the external tweeter's outgoing information will be so far behind the information coming out of the mains that it will no longer interfere. In all the testing I did, this did seem to be the case, the comb filtering was eliminated. And, even if the external tweeters are pointing at a far back wall, a side wall, or a ceiling, you will get significant sound reinforcement and don't worry, you won't notice the delay. But that doesn't mean all your problems are solved. For me, any back, or up, or side, or back-at-an-angle position didn't sound good enough. You do get nice high-frequency reinforcement and a more airy treble, but the downside is this: It diffuses the presence and forwardness of your midrange image. The little bit of midrange reinforcement that those tweeters are giving will soften your midrange and make it lose its focus. Of course at this point you're thinking: "Well, I'll just give those tweeters a steep crossover slope, way up high, and that'll fix it". You're right, it will, but then you'll soon be realizing that with all that time, effort, and money spent on building crossovers, those tweeters are sounding pretty sweet and you bet they'd sound better pointing right at you. And you're back at square one. IMHO, the idea of a big shift in time alignment has merit. But I didn't like pointing them backwards. What I did was pointed them forward, place them as far to the back of the speaker cabinet as they would go, and I also lifted them up off the surface of the cabinet by a few inches. They are far back enough to lose most comb filtering, and up off of the cabinet enough, to not have significant reflections. It's easy to tell if you're getting reflections: With the tweeter in a interference producing position, sit in a chair up close between the speakers and listen to music while moving your head around. You won't just hear changes due to off-axis issues, you will find zones of extreme high frequency cancellation all over the place as you move your head around. In the position I now have my super tweeters, I no longer hear that. And I sit close to my speakers, as they are on either side of my desk in a near-field setup. It's known that having the driver array of a speaker close together is better for time alignment and under normal circumstances, you wouldn't want your tweeter sitting so high, far from the other drivers, but in this case, we are trying to separate, so, at least for me, it works. The added lift is added distance. It's not the perfect solution, nothing is. But the forward, powerfully present midrange of a Klipsch horn driver was not something I wanted to compromise. Now, the KLF-10's are 16 inches deep, giving me a decent distance for a decent time shift. CW's may be deep enough too. You can always buy a low priced pair to try, mine were 20 bucks from Parts Express and I'm still enjoying them. I'll eventually get a pair of ribbons or something else nice. In the images, those are the tweeter covered by a microfiber cloth for a bit of attenuation, sitting on a 4x4 block with padded feet. And note that I didn't even get into the whole issue of how the tweeter will affect your speaker's impedance profile...