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Found 21 results

  1. Hello everybody! I'm a new Klipsch speakers listener and I really enjoy their sound. So much that I've ordered today RP-600M II's as an upgrade from R-50M. Previously I've had Edifier R1700BTS and T5 combo and my ears prefer R-50M over this set even without sub they sound better for me. But the thing is, that for now I use them with inferior old Technics CH-540 amp (even with this the sound is pretty good), and when the RP-600M II's come to me, I would like to use their full potential. Which amp would you recommend for me? I like the bright, punchy sound. I'd like it to have an optical connection for TV and a remote control. I live in Europe, so here is different pricing, about 500$ max is fine to spend for amp for me. What are your thougts about Onkyo A-9130 or Marantz PM6006? Or maybe going for a class D amp like S.M.S.L or Wiim amp would be the better choice? Also I wonder about something vintage, like top tier Technics (SU-800 for example). Thanks from advance and greetings from the Europe
  2. Before I get started, please forgive the inexperience you will likely detect in what I've written below. I recently replaced my RP-600m-ii & RP-404c-ii with an rc64-iii and two new RF-7iiis. So far the switch has been a major improvement in the highs, as these tweeters really are a huge difference maker: they sound great! However, the midrange sounds... thinner. Although female vocals sound extraordinary, sometimes scratchier/mid to lower pitched male vocals simply do not come through in songs, almost at all.. I find myself struggling to even hear the lyrics whereas before that had never been a problem. Dialogue is also a little muddier in that range in movies. It's a little disturbing, and without considering break in time, the RP-600Mii and 404c-ii actually performed better out of the box (albeit ONLY) in the aforementioned range. I'm wondering at a few things, and without getting into the dimensions and treatment of my room (which is of course a potential factor), I am curious as to whether I am either: (A). Expecting too much out of these modest home theater towers that don't have a midrange horn to help it shine in the mids, or (B). (which could be quite the elephant in the room) I am expecting far far too much out of my piece of junk Onkyo NR-676 which was more than capable of driving my previous mains and center, but is now with RF7-iii and rc64-iii severely underpowered, and is potentially creating a bottleneck in sound quality. This is probably turning out to be a huge noob question, but the only reason I ask is because I have been lead to believe on these forums and by experts that the improvements which can be ascertained by upgrading speakers will far and away supersede the improvements which can be ascertained by upgrading an amplifier. And while this amplifier is underpowered for these speakers, I am detecting the problems which I mentioned at even the meekest volume levels, all the way up to the most I can get out of the amp. So I am more or less looking for confirmation that, yes, my amp is just far too junk for the speakers that I bought and is potentially a major reason for the RF7-iii and RC64-iii sounding quite thin in the midrange. For an additional note, I listen to three things mainly, and have tested so far with all three: Movies: 5.2 Apple "Lossless" Stereo Music: 2.2 Apple Spatial Audio 5.2 (Vocals sometimes come through center channel). Last note: I am Bi-AMPing (not buy-wiring) the RF-7iiis with two sets of 9 gauge OFC (which I have been told similarly does nothing special on cheaper amps). Don't flame me for it
  3. Hi all, I have a pair of Synergy series F-30 Klipsh tower speakers, coupled with a Klipsh SW-112 (12" powered sub-woofer). They're all connected to my Onkyo TX-8050 Receiver. https://intl.onkyo-av.com/tx-8050 The speakers all sound great still, but the Onkyo's volume control knob is not working anymore, so we can only control the volume from the Onkyo remote. Also, sometimes the left channel disappears and I have to power-cycle the Onkyo to get it all to work again. We've had the Onkyo receiver, and Klipsch speakers almost 10 years now. (it's not the wiring, 'cause I double checked that and all is secure and tight). Anyway, I have a two-part questions below; 1./ Regarding my Klipsch (powered) subwoofer, I noticed even when everything is turned off, that the (powered) subwoofer still uses ~3.5 Watts from the wall.? Is this normal, or the fact that it is a "powered" subwoofer it will stay on waiting for a signal. ? 2./ any recommendations for a new'ish receiver.? - Marantz NR1200 (75W/ch@6ohms) - Dennon DRA-800H or 900H (100W/ch@8ohms) - ... ? The must have for us is that the receiver: -must have a built-in USB input dac, (for connecting flash-drive or 1-TB portable storage) so as to play all our mp3 and flac, wav, files, ... 96khz/24bit, and 192khz/24bit, and DSD, ... AND it must have the ability to play them in a random/shuffle format as well. Also, it must be able to play shuffle/random files controlled from the Remote and/or Receiver, and NOT need a TV connected to it. -must have subwoofer (pre-out). Having HDMI maybe a bonus feature, but we're not interested in having the TV on while listening to music, old-school I guess. I'm not interested in any 5.1/7.1/... avr surround sound systems, since all of our 5.1 audio files have been converted/mixed down to 2.1(Stereo). However, some friends have said that I could just get a good quality AVR Receiver, and just use it in Stereo mode, which is fine as long as it can deliver the power cleanly to my Klipsch's.
  4. Refurbished… Denon has, right now, the x4700 refurb for $1499, x3700 $999, x2700 $699. All refurbished. Onkyo has the tx-rz50 refurbished for $1119, tx-nr797 $699, tx-nr6100 $639, etc Pioneer has the vsx-lx505 for $1199, vsx-lx305 $999, vsx-lx504 $799, vsx-lx304 $639 They don't stay on the sites for long. PS: To me manufacturer refurbs are better than new. They have been throughly checked and fixed whatever it was before selling those returns.
  5. I've always wondered if there was a better wary to wire my subs. I've currently got 2 DIY Danley TH-SPUS (the ones with 2-8" drivers), that are rated at 400 watts continuous at 8 ohms. I've got the Crown XLS-2502 which is rated at 440 w at 8 ohms dual, but also 2400w 4 ohm bridged, and 1550 w 8 ohm bridged. Currently I have the sub out of my AVR to the MINI DSP, split and eq'ed with the DSP, then each channel on the Crown handling one of each sub. Would it make sense to bridge the amp, to wire the 2-8 ohms subs in parallel to provide a 4 ohm load allowing me to provide 2400 w to the subs? Does it work like this? 2nd part to the question, I know running the MINI DSP I should only be sending .775Vrms, but do have the sensitivity on the Crown switched to .775. If my Ashley Protea is capable of the full 1.4Vrms, would there be any benefit to switching?
  6. Hello, I have been liking my new RP-280FA so far for movies. However, ended up installing celling speakers for Atmos height channels and now the upfiring drivers are collecting dust. Have a crazy idea to hookup the upfiring drivers to the main ones with a cable. Would this hurt the speakers or my amplifier physically or the create a negative listening experience by causing delayed sound on the top drivers? OR would it augment the stereo sound with a more 3D like effect? PS: I have a true 100W per channel amplifier.
  7. I have a Klipsch 10SWi sounds and works perfectly. One question, when I power off my stereo the blue light on the wireless transmitter and the on back of the sub woofer stays on. Is this normal? Plus I have to manually switch the power off on the back of the sub woofer for the green light to go off. Any ideas on what settings I need to do. Thank you in advance.
  8. Hi Guys I am very much new to amplifiers and speakers of this level. I bought Denon X4500H and Klipsch RP 8000F + R 115 SW just this week. I am reading through a lot of stuff online about best settings to get the best out of the system. I agree that what I like is the best sound for me, but just to have some basics clear, I need some help from the community. I am using the whole system for music listening only. No movies or TV at all. I read about LFE, LPF etc and tried to play with setting the mains to Large/ Small LFE/LFE+Mains and LPF - 120Hz but I do not seem to feel any difference. I was expecting R 115SW to explode my room but its still very nominal. Could you please help me out with some basic settings. Thanks a lot. Vivek
  9. Lower price - $4000 Happy wife happy life.....Too much stuff and have to downsize. I didn't think I'd ever part with it but the day has come. Used, like new McIntosh MC275 VI (from Audio Classics). Have all original parts (including tubes). I am in Northern CA and would like local pickup but am willing to drive and/or ship if it makes sense. Currently has Gold Lion KT88 power tubes and Electro Harmonix pretubes. Asking $4000 Just noticed those ARE NOT scratches on the transformers just dust. I can send more detailed pics via text or email for interested parties.
  10. Little bit more along the lines of pro gear but still very useable in this world with some of the setups i've seen! 🙂 10x units available @ $400 each per unit starting price. Reasonable offers for larger qty purchase welcome. Amplifiers from previous large entertainment complex install. All functioning upon last power cycle. Some rack rash and use wear on units but otherwise fully functional. Refer to pictures for general idea. Local pickup preferred in 32808 or buyer pays for shipping. Can ship freight if large QTY is bought. These are up on Ebay as well should you prefer to go through there --> https://www.ebay.com/itm/183318898263?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 Some basic specs below, full specs here --> http://www.l-acoustics.com/36-archives.html Power 16 ohms: 2 x 500W RMS Power 8 ohms: 2 x 1100W RMS Power 4 ohms: 2 x 1450W RMS Power 2 ohms: 2 x 1650W RMS Power Bridge 16 ohms 1 x 2000W RMS Power Bridge 8 ohms 1 x 2900W RMS Power Bridge 4 ohms 1 x 3300W RMS Input Sensitivity: 20dB, 23dB, 26dB, 29dB, 32dB, 35dB, 38dB, 41dB Frequency response: 20Hz to 20KHz Signal / noise ratio: <110dB
  11. Hello all, I have a Yamaha R-N303BL stereo receiver I'm using in a room, with the intention of using the B outputs for outdoor speakers. I also have a subwoofer (K100-SW) for that room that I'd like to join in on the fun. The receiver has no sub output (obviously, since it's stereo, not home theater), but it does have line-out, and I figured that would be fine with the LFE/Line-In on the sub (which does not have powered speaker inputs). However, I had not considered that line-out was volume-independent - so the sub volume remains the same regardless of selected volume on the receiver. D'oh! I have seen suggestions of using the B output on a line-level converter, but I plan to use the B outputs for outdoors. I would rather not swap out for a surround receiver for a room with only speakers just to tie in the sub, and I'd rather not swap out the subwoofer for one with L/R powered speaker inputs that then chain off to the L/R speakers, if possible. Would it be viable to connect a line-level converter to the A speaker posts in parallel with the L/R speakers, and use that to connect to the line-level input on the sub? I have seen some on Amazon that are described as being for older radios to hook into a new receiver or something like that, so I'm not sure they're designed to handle this type of scenario - I don't want to let out any of the magic smoke that makes electronics work! So, is there a viable way to run the line-level input sub off the receiver's speaker posts alongside the L/R speakers, or do I need to exchange the sub for one with L/R speaker inputs & outputs? Thanks for any suggestions!
  12. I'm using a H360 with Klipsch and I think it sounds amazing. Just what other people's opinions too Aleksander
  13. Howdy, I am interested in tweaking a pair of RF-63 Speakers and RC-64 for Fullest Stereo Sound. I am using them with a Denon AVR-3310 CI. When I use the center channel in a 5.1 setting(that is the only way the center channel will engage), I lose the dramatic effect of the stereo speakers. I want the fullness of the Direct Stereo setting while using the center channel. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thank you in advance.
  14. Item: Jeff Rowland Model 112 amplifier Price: $1,800 shipped (lower 48) SOLD Location: Franklin, PA 16323 Trades: Different amp, amp/preamp combo, integrated? More pics available. Only lets me upload one here due to file size restrictions. PM me. One of the finest quality components to ever grace my rack. This is an amp that looks as good as it sounds. Attention to detail has gone into every step of the design and build process. At 150 wpc at 8 ohms and 275 wpc at 4 ohms, it has the power to drive just about any speaker available. The sound is smooth and inviting, yet detailed and articulate. The amp is in excellent condition overall with just a few very minor rub marks on the aluminum chassis (hence the conservative 7/10 rating above). Detailed photos available to interested parties. Amp will ship in its original box and packaging. Owner's manual is included. Todd Warnke at SoundStage sums up the Model 112 here:"In all, the Rowland Model 112 is the definition of jewel-like mass. Everything about it is designed with careful thought, attention to detail, and with a music-lover's heart. The tonal response -- full, accurate, but tight and extended on bottom; mids that are detailed if just a whisper lean; highs that are extended, sweet, detailed and grain-free -- leads to hours of inviting, fatigue-free listening. The limitless power of the Model 112 allows listening to anything, from after-hours ambient to full-scale orchestra. Sonic cues and musical detail are ample, if not quite to the level of the super amps (and Rowland has several of those to offer you should you have the budget). And the Model 112 presents a stage that is wide, deep and stable. All this combines to create a slightly laid-back character that makes for an easy long-term partner.This is an amp that's exquisitely honed to do a difficult job with unflappable control. It never runs out of steam, it goes all the way to the bottom of the musical scale with as complete composure as it goes to the top. It digs deep into a recording and delivers the goods without edge or glare. Add in a design that simply beautiful and you have an amp for people who appreciate quality, will pay for it, and then settle down for the long run with their choice....Todd Warnketodd@soundstage.com"FEATURES· XLR input connectors for balanced (Differential Modeä) system configuration.· RCA input Connectors for unbalanced system configurations.· Selectable overall gain of 26 or 32 dB.· User selectable switching between balanced and unbalanced connections.· 12V remote ON/OFF power switching connector.· Automatic temperature stabilizing circuitry maintains constant operating temperature.· CE approved speaker output connectors requiring no tools for tight connections.· Automatic bias adjustment maintains optimal bias setting regardless of source material or loudspeaker load.· Standby power condition reduces warm-up time.· Fail-safe operation provided by user-resetable thermal circuit breakers located on rear panel.· Quiet, transient-free operation during power and function mode switching.· Automatic input muting under anomalous input or output operating conditions.· Fully-balanced Differential Modeä circuit topology implemented from input to output.· Low resonance, structurally integrated chassis constructed of precision-machined aircraft grade aluminum.SPECS· Output Power:· Continuous RMS watts @ 8 ohms 150 watts @ 4 ohms 275 watts· Power Bandwidth: DC to 160 kHz, -3 dB·· Slew Rate: 30 volts/microsecond· THD + Noise: <.008%· Damping Factor: >60, 20 to 20 kHz· Gain (1 watt, 8 ohms): User Selectable Internal Jumper, 26 dB or 32 dB· Input Impedance: 40k ohms· Common Mode Rejection Ratio: >80 dB, 20 – 20 kHz· Absolute Phase: Phase-Inverted· Power Supply: 500 VA toroidal transformer with 100,000 MFD total storage capacitance. Regulated frontend supply.· Power Consumption: 75 watts idle, 700 watts maximum Both Channels Driven Simultaneously at Full Output Power· Inputs: User Selectable, 2 x Balanced XLR, 2 x Unbalanced RCA· Outputs: One Pair Binding Posts per Channel· Dimensions: 17.5” W x 11.7” D x 5.2” H· Weight: 55 lbs.· Shipping Dimensions: 24” W x 22” D x 13” H· Shipping Weight: 65 lbs.
  15. UPDATE: I've moved to the Chicago area, Lombard, IL. Price drop to $1,800 plus shipping. Thanks! Time to sell some extra gear, and I'm starting with my Anthem Statement P2. No issues to report, only one small scratch on the side of the amp, as you can see in the photos. I have an original box, albeit not THE original box. I'd like to make this available locally first, but I would consider shipping at buyers expense. Local is 54701, which is about an hour and change east from Minneapolis. Asking $2000. http://www.anthemav.com/products-current/model=p2/page=specs
  16. Hi gang, I was going to set this amp up in my daughter's bedroom but she really doesn't have much interest in it so I am going to sell it instead. I would rather see it go to a new home than sit in a box.UPA-200 - Brand new never opened. I have opened the outside double box but never the inside box so it is still factory sealed. $300 shipped with insurance to the CONUS. I prefer Paypal gift but may be able to work with you. I have bought and sold plenty here in the forum so you can feel confident in this transaction. Private Message me if you need anything!Thanks, TimFeaturesA true audiophile-quality stereo amplifier.Advanced engineering with SMD gain blocks.Wideband, short signal path, class A/B design topology.Top quality parts and construction.Real power easily drives complex loads.Heavy-duty power supply with oversized toroidal transformer.Gold plated five way binding post speaker terminals.Gold plated RCA input terminals.Classic Emotiva styling with rugged solid steel chassis.15mm solid milled aluminum faceplate.Channel status LED’s. (which can be disabled in stealth mode).Remote trigger input and output.115 VAC or 230 VAC with automatic detection and switching.Full protection from all common input and output fault conditions.SpecificationsTopology: Fully discrete, dual differential, high current, short signal path Class A/B.Number of Channels: 2Power Output (rated power; THD < 0.05%): 125 watts / channel (8 ohms; all channels driven).200 watts / channel (4 ohms; all channels driven).Rated Power Bandwidth (at rated power; 8 Ohm load): 10 Hz to 20 kHz + / - 0.1 dB.Minimum Recommended Load Impedance: 4 ohms (which equals one 4 ohm load or two paralleled 8 ohm loads per channel).Frequency Response: 5 Hz to 80 kHz + 0 / - 2 dB.THD + N: < 0.03%Signal to Noise Ratio (8 Ohm load): > 92 dB at 1 watt (A-weighted).> 106 dB at rated power (A-weighted).Damping Factor (8 Ohm load): > 500Speaker Output Connections: Full-sized 5-way binding posts; one pair per channel x 2.Power Supply: 350 VA high current ultra-low noise toroidal power transformer.40,000 uF of storage capacitance.Input sensitivity (for rated power; 8 Ohm load): 1.1 V (for full output; 8 ohms).Gain: 29 dBInput Connections: Unbalanced (RCA); one per channel.Input Impedance: 47 kOhmsTrigger: Trigger Input: 5 - 20 V (AC or DC); < 10 mA input current required.Trigger Output: 12 VDC; can drive any load up to 50 mA.Power Requirements: 115 VAC or 230 VAC +/- 10% @ 50 / 60 Hz (automatically detected and switched).Front Panel Controls and Indicators: Standby; push button (changes color to indicate Standby or On).Status LEDs (one per channel); illuminate blue for normal operation or red to indicate a fault (may be disabled by rear panel Status LED switch).
  17. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-receivers-amps-processors/2239098-emotiva-announces-emersa-audio-components.html Emotiva just announce through AVS forum a new product line that may be of interest to some of you. Link above Tim
  18. SOLD! Thanks, Tim Specs: Number of channels: 2 (stereo mode), 1 (monoblock mode) Topology: fully discrete, highly optimized dual differential, high current, short signal path Class A/B with premium components throughout Power output (all channels driven): 1000 watts RMS @ 8 ohm (Mono-Block mode) 500 watts RMS per channel @ 4 ohm (0.12% THD) 300 watts RMS per channel @ 8 ohm (0.07% THD) Rated power bandwidth: 20 Hz to 20 kHz +/- 0.07dB Broadband frequency response: : 5Hz to 100kHz, +0 -3dB Amplifier gain: 29 dB Signal to Noise Ratio: 1 watt: > 97 dB Full power: > 121 dB Input impedance: unbalanced: 23.5kohms balanced: 33 kohms Power supply: 1,200VA toroidal transformer with 45,000uF low ESR storage capacitance Size: unboxed: 17” wide x 7 3/4” high x 19” deep boxed: 23 1/2" wide x 12" high x 24 3/4" deep Weight: 72.6 lbs (83.5 lbs boxed) PM me! Thanks, Tim
  19. thought i would share some photos i captured of jonathan wood's loft setup. enjoy!
  20. I believe this was Super Deans thread. Couldnt find it. Anyhow who still indulges in music or even tv, movies, the bug you hid in your neighbors living room in 2 channel? The way music/noise was/?is meant to be? Sure movies have music...hifi,midfi or lowfi music is for 2 channels! Even if be in the new Klipsch Earhorns? Anybody? Anyone? Or just me, yeah i thought so...
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