BEC Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Might as well look into the K-53Ti Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 K-53Ti Diaphragm removed. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 All apart. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wsu99999 Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 Bob, Is there any way to get this upgrade to work in the H1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Probably not practical to do this to a Heresy 1. That would take a new motorboard and modification to even the back panel to mount the new crossover. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill H. Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 Bob, When you were a child , I bet you got yelled at a lot for taking things Apart.......................Now your getting paid to do that. Congrats on your Skills ![] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Yeah, when I was twelve, my older brother yelled at me a lot when he discovered that I took a piston out of his old '37 Plymouth he had parked out behind the house. Just wanted to see what it looked like. Couldn't get it to go back in. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 Way to steal my thumder Bob! I just got my empty H2 cabinets back from der veneermeister (Marshall) and was going to do a thread of the upgrade. Last weekend I laid it all out, took pics (not as nice as yours) and was going to assemble them. While looking at the parts I realized that the mid drivers were not in the kit. I've got them coming now, but it delayed my thread. I wasn't planning on disassembling the drivers , just slapping them in the cabinets. Carl. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 CECA850 But them "oaks" shore are pretty!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 Bob, PLEASE issue a disclaimer for folks to NOT disassemble their drivers as you have demonstrated. The chance for damaging the diaphragm or voice coil is very high for those unfamiliar with the process or fragility of the parts. For a while the K53Ti was being shipped complete with horn so that the user did not even have to juggle the magnet/diaphragm/phase plug assembly while bolting it to the horn. Nowadays it is assumed that your original horn will be used. Please guys, be cautious with these parts and make every attempt NOT to disengage the voice coil from the magnet gap. I don't know how the directions read, but it's probably simplier to remove the horn from the cabinet, make the driver swap, then reinstall in the cabinet. Otherwise you're working a bit blindly through the woofer and tweeter hole to try to get things lined up. Questions- is there plenty of wiring in the wiring harness? And does it look like the mounting pins on the jack cup have had their fillet enlarged (the radiused area where pin meets the cup). Mark Kauffman and I were working on this last spring and I'd like to know if these were taken care of. Thanks, Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 CECA850 But them "oaks" shore are pretty!!! That's an understatement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 I don't know how the directions read, but it's probably simplier to remove the horn from the cabinet, make the driver swap, then reinstall in the cabinet. Otherwise you're working a bit blindly through the woofer and tweeter hole to try to get things lined up. There's enough room to cock the mid driver through the hole with the horn attatched? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Bob, PLEASE issue a disclaimer for folks to NOT disassemble their drivers as you have demonstrated. The chance for damaging the diaphragm or voice coil is very high for those unfamiliar with the process or fragility of the parts. For a while the K53Ti was being shipped complete with horn so that the user did not even have to juggle the magnet/diaphragm/phase plug assembly while bolting it to the horn. Nowadays it is assumed that your original horn will be used. Please guys, be cautious with these parts and make every attempt NOT to disengage the voice coil from the magnet gap. I don't know how the directions read, but it's probably simplier to remove the horn from the cabinet, make the driver swap, then reinstall in the cabinet. Otherwise you're working a bit blindly through the woofer and tweeter hole to try to get things lined up. Questions- is there plenty of wiring in the wiring harness? And does it look like the mounting pins on the jack cup have had their fillet enlarged (the radiused area where pin meets the cup). Mark Kauffman and I were working on this last spring and I'd like to know if these were taken care of. Thanks, Michael Michael, Most of this will be shown in later posts. Of course, the reason for me doing some disassembly is so that others don't feel it is necessary. At least now, when they do have a need to replace a diaphagm, they can see how on this thread. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Islander Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 I don't know how the directions read, but it's probably simplier to remove the horn from the cabinet, make the driver swap, then reinstall in the cabinet. Otherwise you're working a bit blindly through the woofer and tweeter hole to try to get things lined up. There's enough room to *** the mid driver through the hole with the horn attatched? Yes, there is. I just installed the H-3 kit in my center Heresy II this week. The opening in the motoboard is shaped to allow the mid assembly to come out with a slight twist. As Michael says (so do the instructions), it's best to remove the squawker/horn assembly from the cabinet, remove the old driver, attach the new driver, and put the assembly back on the motorboard (it's easiest with the speaker lying on its back). It would be very difficult to tighten the mid driver mounting screws evenly while the assembly is still in the cabinet. Also, the instructions say to attach the leads while the mid assembly is outside, but they're not long enough for that. With the mid assembly in place, it's easy to reach in through the woofer hole and connect the leads.The tweeter's another story. The instructions say "Be patient. It's a tight fit." The original tweeter does come out with a slight twist and is a tight fit, but the new tweeter is bigger and the new horn is shorter, so the new tweeter assembly will not fit in the original hole. I filed away about 1/8" (3mm) from the curved top of the opening and then it passed through just fine. I used a felt marker to blacken the filed part so it looked unmodified.The leads to the mid and high drivers aren't quite long enough if you try to run them around the sheet of foam rubber in the cabinet, but if you cut a little slit in the foam for the tweeter leads and another one for the squawker leads somewhere near the middle of the sheet and pass them through it, they'll reach just fine, with a good amount of slack so they don't tug on the connections at either end.I was a bit surprised to notice that the input cup does not come with 5-way binding posts, so bare wire or maybe spade lugs are the only two ways to hook up the speakers. 12 gauge wire just passes through the holes, so it was not a problem.The bigger magnets on the drivers put out a slightly stronger magnetic field, so I had to position the speaker about half an inch further back to minimize any interference with the colour at the bottom of the CRT TV. Also not a problem.Finally, the sound. It's a big improvement in realism of vocals, along with fuller bass. You could hear the difference right away. I'm well pleased. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Well, guess it is time to start the upgrade. Bob Crites Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Turning the H2 into an empty box. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Removing the H2 Crossover. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Now where did I put those instructions? Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Cutting out some weather stripping. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Weather stripping installed in the groove where the H2 crossover fit. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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