Rudy81 Posted May 21, 2010 Author Share Posted May 21, 2010 Pete, I got my HVLP at Sears a few years back when I needed to repair my La Scala. It works just fine and it just takes a little practice. Make sure you use a good respirator, they are not cheap, but your lungs will thank you. This is particularly true is you shoot lacquer or a stain. The fumes are something horrible. Oil isn't so bad, but it is still a good idea. I think I have a 3M respirator and it works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted May 21, 2010 Author Share Posted May 21, 2010 Dang you've been busy. FWIW, you can use the waterfall plots in REW to determine how much stuffing you need in the box. You really want to use the minimum amount because the stuffing acts like ESR to the rear volume capacitance, which will lower the efficiency a little bit and widen the Q at Fb...which means a slower, but earlier rolloff. It's a minor thing in the grand scheme of things, but I thought I'd throw it out there since you're going overkill on everything Btw, I would really try to hunt down the source of those dips you see. When you measure outside, try putting the mic on the ground and tilt the speaker forward to make sure it's not a boundary reflection related dip. My fear is that it's a reflection off the rear of the cabinet and the angled walls are focusing it at the woofer.... Another thing to do is use the test tone generator and play constant tones through the speaker...as you move the tone around, look (listen) for vibrations and other weird noises. Don't crank it up too loud, but loud enough to get things moving. Dr. Who, which dips are you referring to? IIRC I did not close the IR windows or do antying to the full result of the plot. FWIW, the Khorn exibits some similar response in my room. Could certainly be room issue. I sure hope it is not a design issue after two weeks of work. For the time being, should I start with polifill on opposite surfaces? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted May 21, 2010 Author Share Posted May 21, 2010 Dr. Who, one more thing. How, exactly is the best way to run a test sweep outside? Should I not put the mic on a mic stand or tripod? I assume no reflective surfaces, except probably the ground, unless I point the speaker up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted May 21, 2010 Share Posted May 21, 2010 Lookin' very nice Rudy. By the way, if you already have an air compressor, HVLP conversion guns work very well for our type of use. I bought the Wagner gun (do not think power painter type deal), do a search. Cost me about $125.00 online. Finish wise, Marion(Rigma) turned me onto the primer and topcoat linked below. He used these on his Jube Clones and I am using them on mine. Waterborne, Urethane, low odor and bad #ss stuff, etc. http://www.ktmfinishes.com/water-base-products/coatings-for-wood/35-ktm-hs-primer http://www.ktmfinishes.com/ktm-xl Just my .02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted May 21, 2010 Author Share Posted May 21, 2010 Jordan, thanks for the ideas. Pricey stuff that paint. I got a gallon of Sherwin Williams oil, their top stuff for $43. It turned out acceptably nice. Mind you, I'm not going to start a finished company or anything, but plenty acceptable for my needs. I still beleive that it would have been better to shoot lacquer. That type of finish rocks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted May 21, 2010 Author Share Posted May 21, 2010 First top hat assembled. The horn is recessed in the motorboard so that it will be flush. I will likely leave the horn exposed and cover the rest of the motorboard in black cloth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted May 21, 2010 Author Share Posted May 21, 2010 Back of tophat. The top horizontal piece still needs to be reinforced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sootshe Posted May 21, 2010 Share Posted May 21, 2010 First top hat assembled. The horn is recessed in the motorboard so that it will be flush. I will likely leave the horn exposed and cover the rest of the motorboard in black cloth. Hey Rudy, FWIW....On my latest rebuild I decided to dispense with the grill cloth as it's a pain to apply....you end up with all those staples on the back & it attracts all that dust. I'm going to apply some textured Laminex to the front & sides (but still leave the horn exposed - pics soon).....gives a very neat finish & is a lot more permanent. Great to see these babies coming alive!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted May 21, 2010 Author Share Posted May 21, 2010 Is Laminex a solid type flooring product? I will have to research that. The good news is that I am not going to apply any brille cloth until I know for sure that I am going to keep this setup. Reason is that I have a lot of cloth on my false corners, but would have to remove it to work on the DBB. I don't want to do that unless I am positive I am going to leave the Khorns. So, I have time to work on a good solution. One reason to go with the cloth is to soften the 'look' of those large black boxes...even just a little. I wish I had another week or so to really finish this and run some tests on it....but duty calls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sootshe Posted May 22, 2010 Share Posted May 22, 2010 Is Laminex a solid type flooring product? I will have to research that. The good news is that I am not going to apply any brille cloth until I know for sure that I am going to keep this setup. Reason is that I have a lot of cloth on my false corners, but would have to remove it to work on the DBB. I don't want to do that unless I am positive I am going to leave the Khorns. So, I have time to work on a good solution. One reason to go with the cloth is to soften the 'look' of those large black boxes...even just a little. I wish I had another week or so to really finish this and run some tests on it....but duty calls. Rudy, Laminex is a brand name for a generic laminate product that is generally used for kitchen bench tops here in Australia...... (Not sure what you call it in the States - something totally different & obscure, I'm sure!!) It's usually 1mm thick & comes in thousands of colours & textures. Extremely durable....almost waterproof....& easy to apply & trim. Looking good.....John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted May 22, 2010 Author Share Posted May 22, 2010 Final stages in progress. I chose these terminal strips for their low profile. Wiring is now complete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted May 22, 2010 Share Posted May 22, 2010 Is Laminex a solid type flooring product? I will have to research that. The good news is that I am not going to apply any brille cloth until I know for sure that I am going to keep this setup. Reason is that I have a lot of cloth on my false corners, but would have to remove it to work on the DBB. I don't want to do that unless I am positive I am going to leave the Khorns. So, I have time to work on a good solution. One reason to go with the cloth is to soften the 'look' of those large black boxes...even just a little. I wish I had another week or so to really finish this and run some tests on it....but duty calls. Rudy, Laminex is a brand name for a generic laminate product that is generally used for kitchen bench tops here in Australia...... (Not sure what you call it in the States - something totally different & obscure, I'm sure!!) It's usually 1mm thick & comes in thousands of colours & textures. Extremely durable....almost waterproof....& easy to apply & trim. Looking good.....JohnI think you are referring to what we call Formica or Wilsonart, which are products that are used primarily on kitchen and bath countertops. Those are the 2 big names here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted May 22, 2010 Author Share Posted May 22, 2010 Installed some polifill on alternate surfaces. This is 2" polyfill. Alternate ports have 1" acoustic foam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted May 22, 2010 Author Share Posted May 22, 2010 Baffles now permanently installed. Finally got to paint the bottom of the cabinet just for the heck of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted May 22, 2010 Author Share Posted May 22, 2010 Time to say goodbye for a few weeks. I then plan on running some frequency sweeps outside per JC's request. I would appreciate some ideas on how to set the speaker and the mic for the test. Then, it will be time to lug them up to the media room for the horn and HF driver install. Then, some music.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted May 22, 2010 Author Share Posted May 22, 2010 BTW, before someone asks about the unpainted blocks on top of the cabinets, here is the explanation. I am using those for a twofold purpose. First, they allow me to easily line up the tophats in just the right position. Second, I driver scrwes from the inside of the top hat into those blocks to hold down the top hat once assembled. It seemed like a simple way to achieve both goals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted May 22, 2010 Share Posted May 22, 2010 RUUUDY! RUUUDY! RUUUDY! [] Sorry, but I felt someone had to do it and since Fini did'nt come through... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted May 22, 2010 Author Share Posted May 22, 2010 I'm sorry, did I do something wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted May 22, 2010 Share Posted May 22, 2010 I think Andy Griffith would understand... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted May 22, 2010 Author Share Posted May 22, 2010 That bad huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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