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Revisiting Pro amplifiers for home use


Rudy81

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I see specs that say 120wpc at 8ohms and 160wpc at 4 ohms. That is not a lot of power for Maggies.

Where did you find that? I've been looking for a "definitive" 4 ohm spec for a while and have not found anything.

Yea... I know that 160wpc is on the low side for Maggies. On the other hand 120wpc will drive my La Scalas to absolutely stupid levels at the twist of a knob. If my math is reasonably close the La Scalas reach their maximum output (121dB) at just under 64 watts.

Do you think that 650wpc @ 4 ohms in to a pair of MG-12s is perhaps a bit on the "overkill" side? [:D]

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They'll dim any light on it's circuit when the bass hits hard too. Be sure they have a good supply of juice if you run them hard.

When I built my DIY home theater, I had 4 separate 20 amp lines put in my HT. I hope that's enough. But, thus far not even a flicker with all the gear going.

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WOW! Price per rated watt is off the chart. Do you think that might be just a small overkill on the headroom department for really efficient horn loaded subs! LOLStick out tongue I think on the next Klipsch gathering everyone just needs to bring their amps, tube, SS, old, new, pro and consumer and throw in some little T-amps, a few sets of Klipsch (Heritage, Reference, Pro, Cinema and a couple of builds) and have a listen. I think in the amp department we could come up with representation from most manufacturer's and all price ranges. We would have to have some of the techs of the group measure everything so that during the blind listening tests when a majority of the group decides what they most like, we can learn that we don't know what we're talking about because the tests prove that it can't sound goodBig Smile. If you're not smiling at that, you need to put down the test equipment now, take a couple steps back and think happy thoughts! I would seriously love to hear a ton of different amps.

Overkill? No! The DIY TH subs are happy, the dual RSW-15s really appreciate the extra head room and my DBB bass bins love it as well. I am checking into the QSC PLX line for the HF section, although they are a little pricier.....that's why I started this thread. I have decided I may just go with all pro amps and put my Klipsch cinema effects on EP4000s as well.....power to spare.

Great idea on a pro amp shoot out at the next Klipsch get together. Or should I say the Audiovox get together?

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I run the board at our church and we ahve a rack of Crowns that total over 6000 watts plus 4-5 other processing units and a 48 channel board. Everything is fed via a Monster power conditioner that shows total system draw and the most I've ever seen the entire system draw when I'm cranking the band is around 3 amps.

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I run the board at our church and we ahve a rack of Crowns that total over 6000 watts plus 4-5 other processing units and a 48 channel board. Everything is fed via a Monster power conditioner that shows total system draw and the most I've ever seen the entire system draw when I'm cranking the band is around 3 amps.

Excellent! No worries then.

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They'll dim any light on it's circuit when the bass hits hard too. Be sure they have a good supply of juice if you run them hard.

That would be like having a disco in your HT room; you could be on to something here as a planned effect; when the bombs go off in the movie the lights would dim as your body is feeling the LF waves. We just need to figure out how to have it trigger debris to fly around the room at the same time and make everyone wear depends if it's an action movie and we might just have a business venture here. OK, I'm half kidding but there was a movie called "strange days" that was completely based on the premise that people will pay a lot of money to experience (in a safe environment) things that they're really scared to experience; we could pioneer the million dollar HT room that's a condensed version of the rides at Universal Studio's.[~]

Rudy, you're the test subject and you're going to need a few more circuits!

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I run the board at our church and we ahve a rack of Crowns that total over 6000 watts plus 4-5 other processing units and a 48 channel board. Everything is fed via a Monster power conditioner that shows total system draw and the most I've ever seen the entire system draw when I'm cranking the band is around 3 amps.

Do you know if that is an averaged RMS? Or true measured peak current? An Allen Heath GL3300 (48 channel board) is gonna pull about 5A even though the actual power draw may only be 100W. Heck, my phone charger pulls 1A off the AC line voltage, even though it's only ~3W...

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Do you think that 650wpc @ 4 ohms in to a pair of MG-12s is perhaps a bit on the "overkill" side?

No not even close. I would have no problem with 500wpc (1000wpc @4ohms), pre-amps have a volume control, you don't have to turn it up to 11 to get benefits of a high-power amp.

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They'll dim any light on it's circuit when the bass hits hard too. Be sure they have a good supply of juice if you run them hard.

When I built my DIY home theater, I had 4 separate 20 amp lines put in my HT. I hope that's enough. But, thus far not even a flicker with all the gear going.

I've got everything in my HT on a dedicated circuit EXCEPT for my EP-2500(4000) that I use for my IB, I have no issues with that. When I run my outside rig, I plug it into a receptacle on my back porch which is on the same circuit as my kitchen lights and ceiling fans. That's when I have problems. Here's my home made rack for the outside rig.

post-15193-13819636517012_thumb.jpg

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Hey Doc, I read teh manual and the Monster power conditioner we use does not specify what the current reading is. It just says "current" in the manual. The whole unit only only supports 15A..............so all that equipment really draws very little. We run the whole Kit-n-Kaboodle on a 20A circuit.



Question, explain how if you are using 120V outlet and you say a mixing board draws 5A......that it's only 100W. I get 600. And explain how at 120V a 3W wall wart draws 1A .......I get 25mA?

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Relative phase of the voltage and current...if your current waveform is drawing 5A when the AC voltage is near 0V, then the power is essentially 0W even though it is pulling 600VA. The power factor is a value between 0 and 1 that describes the impact of the relative phase. A PF of 1 means your'e in phase and a PF of 0 means you're 90 degrees out of phase.

Basically what is happening is the power company is providing 600W of which 150W is being transferred to the device, and the remaining 525W is being burned up as heat at the power plant. The PF would be 0.25 in this scenario.

Power_factor_0.svgPower_factor_0.svg

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Mike, Rudy or anyone with experience,

Most everyone is familiar with the Crown D series amps. The Hafler studio series TA-1100/1600A models have very simlar specs as the Crown D40A/75A models but considerably less costly.

Are there any opinions of this particular series versus the Crown D models. Any hiss isues, quality issues, known comparisons, etc. They are "fan free", convection cooled.

http://www.hafler.com/techsupport/index.asp?ID=3

Thanks,

Wrinkles

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Wrinkles, I tried the D series Crown amps first, but both amps I got my hands on thumped when being turned on and off.....they didn't hurt anything, but I just didn't like that so I went a different route. I have the Hafler P series amps now and really like them. Sound quaility is excellent and actually a friend who uses them in a professional studio turned me on to that line. I currently use the P1500 and P3000. No hiss, no major problems. I have found they are perfect for high efficiency drivers.

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I am using the Behringer EP4000 to run all my subs and my DBB bass bins. (I replace my Crown K1 with one of these amp and am very pleased with the sound for the bass bins.) I like those amps thus far and they are doing a great job. The price is so attractive

Some folks have already recommended the QSC PLX series for better quality HF sound. I was wondering what other options you guys might suggest and I would appreciate the discussion on using pro amps for the high end.

Hey Rudy ,

So you traded in your K1 for an EP4000. The 4000 is very similar to a K2 where the 2000 would be similar to your K1.

K2 has a death grip on a woofer IMHO.

I've had the QSC SRA 2422 which is just a home version and maybe a few fancier parts than the PLX line. I used it in full range on my Chorus II's and it was great but I wouldn't trade my K2 for a QSC full range. Again thats just my opinion.

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I used a Crown K1 for my subs for years; when it tanked, I replaced it with the QSC-RMX2450. First complaint after turning it on was the fan noise; terrible loud, but I solved with by swapping it out with an $8 replacement from Digikey. The fan is still audible, but is a quiet whoosh as opposed to a whiny vacuum cleaner.

My next two issues with the unit are:

1. How bright the power and signal lights are; my equipment rack shares the same wall as my display, and the lights are distracting when watching anything, so am going to address that with either window tint or a dry-erase marker, and

2. The lower line level from consumer gear vs. pro amplifiers; with both the QSC and the Crown before it, I had to turn up the gain on the amp all the way, and set the sub output in my HT processor way higher than 0 to get the proper balance. This seems inefficient to me, so I have a Samson S-Convert on the way (similar to the ART Cleanbox, but without the sub-30 Hz cutoff), and am hoping to find a better balance with this.

I am otherwise very pleased with the aesthetics, build quality, and sonics of the QSC.

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1. How bright the power and signal lights are; my equipment rack shares the same wall as my display, and the lights are distracting when watching anything, so am going to address that with either window tint or a dry-erase marker, and

Black fine point Sharpies work well also. Just re-apply as many times as you need to, until you reach the desired brightness.

If you think they're bad, you should see the Emotiva stuff.

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