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DIY Subwoofers


sseymour

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Does anyone know a good site to find plans for building different types of enclosures? I currently have my sub woofer in a sealed box I built myself. I would like to try to build a few different enclosures and see how each compare. I already have plans for a ported box, I am really looking for a tube, similar to SVS and a folded horn. BTW, the woofer is Adire Audio Shiva 12".

Thanks,

-Scott

------------------

KG-4 Fronts

RC-3 Center

Klipsch Quintet Surrounds

DIY Sub based on Adire Audio Shiva Woofer

Sony DB830

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SSeymour,

Have you looked at Parts Express? Their drivers and boxes dont look great but they carry software titles that deal with calculating box volumes etc. when building your own speakers. That probably isnt much help but nobody else is answering your question. Good luck.

Dan

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Scott,

If you want to try a tube it's relatively simple. If you have the correctly calculated volumes for the ported and sealed boxes you can carry those numbers over to tube designs. As far as construction here's a rough idea of how I built mine (7 years ago). Calculate the length you need for the diameter tube you choose and cut the tube to length. You can do this by spinning the tube on a table saw or drawing a line around it and using a jigsaw. Then cut circular end caps out of MDF or plywood that fit snugly inside the tube. Cut some 1x2's (3 or 4) that are the length of the tube minus the thickness of the 2 endcaps. Glue these lengthwise on the inside of the tube - leave space at the top and bottom of the tube for the end caps. Cut holes in the top and bottom for driver, ports, terminal cup, etc. Slap the top and bottom on (you can screw it to the 1x2 braces you put in and glue it around the edges). There are details to consider like whether you want feet (probably do for the connections and/or port), how you want to finish the outside, etc. but this should get you started.

BTW, there's no inherent reason a tube should sound any better or worse that a well constructed traditional box.

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I'll second the suggestion for the Home Theater Forum.

Look under the DIY/Advanced Project section. LOTS of GREAT advice. I just finished a dual Tempest sonosub and it's unbelievable. VERY loud/low/clean bass!!

I auditioned about 30+ subs before deciding on DIY and NOTHING I heard (I demoed subs up to $5k) comes close to what I built. Total cost was around $900 for dual 15's, amp, and all materials.

Good luck....Mike

This message has been edited by Mlstrass on 05-03-2002 at 10:27 AM

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Mike, any chance you can post photos or a link to see pictures of your DIY Sub?? I am thinking about going this route also and would love to see detailed photos....

Thanks, Brett

------------------

Brett's Home Theater

My system(s):

Great Room---

KLF-30's Bi-wired

KLF-C7

KSP-S6's

Monster cable 14 gauge in-wall cable

Audioquest interconnects

Niles SPS-4 speaker switch box

Niles wall plates

Niles in-wall volume controls

Marantz SR-8000

Toshiba SD-4205 5 DVD changer

Pioneer PDF-1007 301-CD changer

Mitsubishi 35" TV

Mitsubishi VCR

Pioneer VSX-608 Multi-room amp for Outdoor deck

Polk All-weather AW2's deck speakers

Panamax DBS-8 Surge Protector

Master Bath---

Klipsch IC-525's in Master Bath

13" Sony Wega in Master Bath

Niles Wall volume control in M/Bath

Basement HT-----

SE-13HD LCD Projector

Da-Lite 52" x 92" High contrast screen

Chorus II Mains

KLF-C7 Center

KSP-S6 Surrounds

KSW-15 Front sub

KSW-100 Rear sub

Pioneer VSX-810 DD/DTS-ES receiver

JVC-XV-FA90BK 7 Disc progressive DVD

Panamax MAX1000 Surge protector/line conditoner

Comcast Digital Cable

Philips S-VHS VR-1010

1 Lava Lamp for Ambience

Fridge full of beer and plenty of Don Julio, Jagermeister and Jim Beam

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BLOOMIS914,

No pics yet, maybe this weekend. Specs are as follows:

28" x 54" sonotube

triple layer of 3/4" MDF for each endcap

2 - 6" x 20" ports

dual Tempest 15" subs

480L tuned to 17hz

powered by a Hypex HS500 amp

VERY simple to build. Actually I started doubting it's ability during construction because it was so easy.

It WILL rattle the neighbor's windows....2 houses away!! VERY loud and clean. Best addition to my HT by far. I hope to have pics/SPL chart soon....Mike

The HomeTheaterForum has lots of advice/tips and many knowledgeable people willing to answer questions and help out.

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Ok so my question here is, can you make them so they sound as tight and as good as a professionaly built sub like the RSWs? The construction seems easy, but how do you tune them, what makes a base nice, punchy and tight?

------------------

the m00n system

FRONTS: RF-7

CENTER: RC-7

SURROUNDS: RS-7

SUB: RSW-12

RECEIVER: Harman Kardon AVR 520

DVD: Toshiba SD 3205 (DD, DTS)

TV: Samsung 27" Flatscreen

COMPUTER: ProMedia 4.1

c>Microsoft XBOXc>

f>

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m00n,

I'm far from an expert but I'll offer what I've learned. The "tune" is based upon the port lenght/width and the enclosure volume. I tuned mine to 17hz, but it will still hit you in the chest on music/gunfire, etc...

You could also research the sealed vs ported debate as some believe that sealed subs provide more punch in the upper frequencies.

Mine is doing everything I wanted it to do. I'm pretty sure my dual 15" will go lower/louder and is just as accurate as the RSW-12 (which I've heard is a fine sub). You just have to have the time/ability to build one. I tuned mine for HT/music, so it goes plenty low, but still has lots of punch for music.

Do some research on the HomeTheaterForum and you'll find plenty of answers....Mike

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quote:

Originally posted by fabulousfrankie:

Here's another link:

Also checkout the DIY forum at


thanks! i think i am going to build one, looks to be pretty cheap to do considering the results.

can i get a quick history on Shiva drivers? never heard of them

------------------

-justin

SoundWise Support

A technical help site created by me and my fellow Klipschers

I am an amateur, if it is professional;

ProMedia help you want email Amy or call her @ 1-888-554-5665 or for an RA# 800-554-7724 ext 5

Klipsch Home Audio help you want, email support@klipsch.com or call @ 1-800-KLIPSCH

RA# Fax Number=317-860-9140 / Parts Department Fax Number=317-860-9150s>

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Justin,

The Shiva is/was Adire's flagship sub, but MANY now choose to go with the Tempest as you get almost twice as much output and the motor design makes it every bit as accurate as a 12". If you've got the room for a 15" sub, don't even consider the Shiva. Adire's drivers are very efficient (much like a certain speaker we all love) so they don't require much power and also normally have a very flat frequency response so they don't need an EQ. A high excursion driver, such as a Blueprint, will give the same output in a much smaller enclosure, but require upwards of 1000 watts = $$$$

The Tempest will go lower/louder than just about any sub out there, especially @ $140. Two of those fed with a measly 250 watts each will provide sickening levels of bass, just requires a large enclosure.

Let me know when you start building as I'd be glad to offer any tips I can as I learned a lot of tricks as I built mine. I could build a second one in a weekend. Good luck...Mike

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I had asked in home theater forum about the ability to get a good quality sound out of one of these and here is a couple of replies.

quote:

Rick,

I recently completed a dual Tempest sonosub thanks to the advice offered on this GREAT forum (and Dan Wiggins from Adire). I have about $900 in mine and I can tell you that NOTHING I heard in the stores can come close, and I listened to: Boston, Mirage, Klipsch, REL, Polk Audio, Yamaha, JBL, etc...up to around $3k.

It seems to be a pretty well acknowledged fact that subs are one area where the DIY'er can easily duplicate or exceed commercial offerings for much less $$$.

My Klipsch Legends couldn't be happier with their new "brother".

I say take the plunge, you won't regret it....Mike


quote:

Rick,

Yes you can, and once you see how easy they are to build, you'll wonder how anyone can spend so much on retail subs.

quote:

Easily.

There is an iron law in sub design that a guy named Hoffman came up with. Out of efficiency, extension and enclosure size you can pick two and the third will be dictated to you.

The RSW12 picks a small enclosure size (~55L) and then trades some extension to get power requirements down to 1000W. The other thing is if you do some reading on passive radiators you will discover that the preference is to have the PR be able to displace at least twice what the active driver can, peferably more than 3 times as much. So unless that PR on the RSW12 can travel 3 times as far as the active driver the RSW12 is under radiated. The RSW15 in the Secrets of Hifi review also dropped off in output heavily below 30hz inticated a fairly high tuning frequency.

Commercial sub designers need to keep enclosure sizes down and parts cost low so profit can be made by the manufacture and retailer. So in reality the cost of parts in your sub is in the 15-40% range of the final price you paid.

Also Klipsch really likes to exagurate their sub output specs. 119dB is way to high for that sub. They were something like 12dB higher than Nousaine on the numbers for their LF series.

If you are willing to trade enclosure size to get efficiency and extension incredible things can be done with DIY. I'd put an EBS Vented Tempest (340L) with a 250W plate amp up against a RSW12 and fully expect it to easily win in both output and soundquality. This sub can easily be built with a simiple finish for less than $400. You can spend more to get as elaborate of a finish as you want.

If you want a smaller sub you could put a BluePrint 1503 in a 150L or so enclosure with a pair of 18" stryke PRs. Parts cost would be $500 plus several hundred for a pro amp and whatever you spend on the enclosure. It would sound as good if not better than the RSW12 and absolutely trounce it in output.

If you can do it though, the ultimate in sound quality and output (if you use enough drivers) is an infinite baffel.

Do some more reading, get a better idea of what you want and any questions you have that you can't find answers to searching past posts the guys here will be happy to answer.


------------------

the m00n system

FRONTS: RF-7

CENTER: RC-7

SURROUNDS: RS-7

SUB: RSW-12

RECEIVER: Harman Kardon AVR 520

DVD: Toshiba SD 3205 (DD, DTS)

TV: Samsung 27" Flatscreen

COMPUTER: ProMedia 4.1

c>Microsoft XBOXc>

f>

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quote:

Originally posted by m00n:

..."The other thing is if you do some reading on passive radiators you will discover that the preference is to have the PR be able to displace at least twice what the active driver can, peferably more than 3 times as much"...


Unless the PASSIVE radiator is actualy ACTIVE, the PASSIVE radiator will displace exactly the same amount of air as the active driver -- no more, no less. Physics dictates this. This is true for every single passive radiator.

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I know this is a little off topic, but if you are interested in building a giant killer subwoofer, and size and cost is NOT a factor, check out the specs on the Seismic Sounds 18" pro audio driver ( sold by parts express ) as used in the BASSMAXX b-one and b-two fully horn loaded subwoofers for pro audio usage. The specs are awesome ! The seismic sounds 18" was formerly the aura soound 1808. For pics, go to www.partsexpress.com or check out www.bassmaxx.com and check out the pictures. Bye

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Mike,

Is that two Tempest 15" subs per side, a total of four? I am new to this, being mostly a 2 channel audio fan. Or do you just use one subwoofer in the whole system with dual 15" subs. I am trying to fix a problem with the missing bass response in a proposed Altec system I am building, and need to add a sub. I was thinking you need a sub on each channel, but maybe this is not necessary.

Also, is there any reason, beside weight, not to use other material for the tube, like really large diameter PVC pipe?

Zeno

BLOOMIS914,

No pics yet, maybe this weekend. Specs are as follows:

28" x 54" sonotube

triple layer of 3/4" MDF for each endcap

2 - 6" x 20" ports

dual Tempest 15" subs

480L tuned to 17hz

powered by a Hypex HS500 amp

VERY simple to build. Actually I started doubting it's ability during construction because it was so easy.

It WILL rattle the neighbor's windows....2 houses away!! VERY loud and clean. Best addition to my HT by far. I hope to have pics/SPL chart soon....Mike

The HomeTheaterForum has lots of advice/tips and many knowledgeable people willing to answer questions and help out.

------------------

Cornwalls

currently upgrading

to all tube components

This message has been edited by Clipped and Shorn on 05-18-2002 at 03:28 AM

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LOL

"It WILL rattle the neighbor's windows....2 houses away!!"

Sure if the neighbor windows are made out of clear plastic bags.

Measure its maximum output ar 31.5Hz and 20 and then 16Hz.Place the mic one meter away from the sub.

TheEAR(s) Now theears

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C&S,

It's one dual 15" sub total. If I had a much bigger room I'd consider 2, but not sure my house could take it.

PVC would resonate and I'm not sure you can get it in a 28" diameter. The concrete forms we use are inexpensive and pretty easy to find and they're actually very strong. Do plenty of research if you decide to build one and determine ahead of time it's primary use: music or HT as that will dictate the tune, sealed/ported, etc... Mine sounds great for both but was built more for HT with a 17Hz tune.

Ears,

"Sure if the neighbor windows are made out of clear plastic bags."

Not sure if that was meant as a joke, if not...BITE ME!

If kids can throw subs in a car that you can hear a block away why is it so hard to imagine that a house can do the same thing. Last year someone won a major DB Drags competition with 2 Tempests in a car...hit 156+ SPL, so these things will play loud.

My SPL measurements will go from 15Hz-100Hz in increments of 5. Hoping to have time on Memorial Day weekend.

Do you have any measurements on all of your $$$ subs???

This message has been edited by Mlstrass on 05-18-2002 at 09:00 PM

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