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Need help to choose the correct cable speaker????


Manol

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Hello,

I just bought the WF-35, I need help on chossing the correct cable speaker? do you recommend bi-wire ? looks like there are many brands and different prices, is it really worth it spend that much money?

I'm looking to buy the audioquest rocket 33 for $300, I'm also looking to build my own cables???

I would appreciate your comments.

thanks,

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do you recommend bi-wire ?

It isn't necessary.

looks like there are many brands and different prices, is it really worth it spend that much money?

There is little to gain by overspending on speaker wire. Wire has three metrics worth noting: resistance, capacitance, and inductance. Reasonable quality 14AWG zip cord does more than adequately in all three metrics except for the longest runs, and can be had at Monoprice for under $12 for 50 feet plus shipping.
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I buy regular speaker wire, not Monster, though. I am using everything from zip wire to orange extension cord wire to monster wire with no discernable difference in sound between them. On real long runs I like to get the wire that it twisted, as it has some additional noise cancellation properties. 14 guage is usually sufficient size. Here is a wire size calculator in case you are worried about guage.

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Thanks for a wonderful resource and great exposition on all the mumbo-jumbo, audiophile psycobabble, misinformation and outright fraud in the speaker wire and audiophile accessories market. These outfits remind of me of supplement manufacturers, who are very happy to lie and misinform in an effort to overcharge you for dubious products.

There is no electrical reason to buy more than good quality copper standed 14ga or 16ga speaker wire or zip cord. If you are dealing with long runs of cable (over 50 feet) or unusual/exotic loudspeakers with very low, highly variable or very high impedence, there is simply no real effect from speaker cable at audio frequencies. I'd say it's more important to make sure the cables have good, solid connections at each end.

Save your money and spend it on things that DO make a difference, like green magic markers, polished rocks, and telegraph insulators.[:D]

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LOL!!!

You mean these fun loving guys who use advanced and emerging technologies and concepts such as nanotechnology, quantum entanglement, quantum teleportation, mind-matter interaction, atomic physics of mineral crystals, scattered background laser light absorption, acoustic and mechanical resonance control and component vibration isolation; thus promoting greater signal accuracy, superior retrieval of recorded information and a stronger emotional connection to the musical performance.

http://www.machinadynamica.com/index.html

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How do you quote everyone, lol.

I reckon go for the Rocket 33. It has a really good name so it must be good.

I found it was always best to lubricate my woofers with snake oil, btw, just sayin.

Then on a more serious note, Laaaaaaaaa, the electrons that are free to move and make a difference are only located on the outside of the wire, so a fine multi stranded wire will have more surface area than a solid core of copper. I pipe would work better than a solid core as it also has an outside on the inside.

For long runs I have used a pair joined at the end for positive and another the exact same for the negative. Keeping them separated so they don't fight with each other.

If the diameter of a multi strand of wire exceeds 4.5 mm then my understanding is this is detrimental so it's better to use 2 wires to reduce the overall resistance rather than one jumbo sized wire.

If you have 4 ohm speakers and there is 2ohms in your wires then only 66percent of the power is used by the speaker and the other 33percent keeps the wire warmer. So we all know we don't want to have cold speaker wires, just not civilised at all.

As for coat hangers, do you solder them together for long runs or use those insulated screw wire joiners?

The shorter the speaker cable is the better it is and this is undisputed.

Consider, the speaker is part of the amplifier circuit as far as a circuit diagram is concerned. So not only does the "cheek" the speaker sends back to the amplifier when the amp tells it to do something have the amp trying to dampen this out and get the result, the speaker wires can put the speakers at arms length from the amp so the amp can't give the speakers a good clip under the ear when they need it, so they will become sloppy and lethargic.

Try using really long telephone wire and see how that sounds, then you will have an idea of what does not work. When I say really long I mean really long, the longer the better the example.

Hope my spelling is OK since I just got home from seeeeein a band playing at the pub, lol.

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I thought CL2 was wire rated for in-wall use.

Same here... A fire rated jacket... Although it is true the CL2 wire is in the 'twisted' format to help pull it through walls (pulling a round wire through a round hole is easier than a square one.). Regardless, personally I use it for inwall as well as my speaker cables...

ROb

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I thought CL2 was wire rated for in-wall use.

Same here... A fire rated jacket... Although it is true the CL2 wire is in the 'twisted' format to help pull it through walls (pulling a round wire through a round hole is easier than a square one.). Regardless, personally I use it for inwall as well as my speaker cables...

ROb

Did yopu just come home from the pub two, lol

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