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DIY Guys-Speaker Restoration Tip Needed


Mallette

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Dave, tried to call yesterday, but no luck; here's the site: http://www.rotdoctor.com/

Here's the product: http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html

Extract:

CPES™ contains other precisely measured organic solvents which act as "carriers"
and take the epoxy deep into the wood and then evaporate out over a period of
time. The resin is carried through the soft or bad wood and into the top layers
..... and form a bonding surface.....

That's why it works so good with MDF. Site has complete instructions, etc.

He also has some very high quality exterior coatings etc.

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Fiberglass resin??

(Hey, I'm trying here)

Brand or link?

(So am I)

Dave

Typically when you make a repair, you layer resin and mat. Considering that you already have a structure that you want to protect (and not create), I would think that all you would need to do is mix the 2 part resin together and paint it on the speakers. You can sand and paint as required. Most all auto parts stores and hardware stores carry it. I don't have a speaker coating link as it's just a thought however, I know it's waterproof.

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Okies. Think we are getting towards a firing solution. Placed the final side board after work yesterady and will complete the enclousure by or before the weekend. Then I'll need to sand and prep.

I am documenting this little foray and will post before, during, and after pix when complete. Not going to impress you advanced builders, but it may provide a bit of encouragement for the beginners like me.

Still jonsin' for a Table Tuba...

Dave

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Dave - I would think the RotDoctor epoxies or something from WEST Systems would work great fro making these more outside friendly. You already have the rotdoctor link. The WEST (wood epoxy saturation technique) system has great info on their web site. I've only known them for all fo their boat building supplies (...and no, I don't have a boat... just dreamed a lot.

http://www.westsystem.com

Bruce

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Bruce, thanks. Right now I a leaning towards the RotDoctor CPES followed by Rhino Top. Looks like I'll be at 160.00 or so in materials when done, but I expect a pretty classy and permanent fix. These things sound awesome, so I think it will be well worth it.

Probably had that much fun already, anyway.

Dave

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Well, we have to have more than one hobby right? I have an old Jeep and over on that forum they use a DIY product called U-Pol Raptor that comes with everything you need. This stuff is tintable.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/U-POL-821-Raptor-CLEAR-TINTABLE-Truck-Bed-Liner-Kit-Gun-/390343727187?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5ae24c9853

You can read all about it searching here:

www.jeepforum.com

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  • 2 weeks later...

Perhaps a few days early to put the paddles to this, but I have a potential firing solution for the coating. It was suggested here to take them to a spray on bedliner shop. However, talking on the phone to my friend Ron (Lonelobo here) he said the stuff could be had in spray cans at most auto parts stores. So I got a couple of cans yesterday at 9 bucks each. I am set as soon as the Rot Doctor epoxy primer is dry, which should be soon. It says a day to a week, depending on rot depth and ventitlation. Since I have no rot and the ventilation is good, I should be able to spray them this week if I have a bit of free time after work, weekend at the latest.

I've documented the whole little project on pix, so I'll post them when complete.

Thanks for the input from all.

Dave

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Perhaps a few days early to put the paddles to this, but I have a potential firing solution for the coating. It was suggested here to take them to a spray on bedliner shop. However, talking on the phone to my friend Ron (Lonelobo here) he said the stuff could be had in spray cans at most auto parts stores. So I got a couple of cans yesterday at 9 bucks each. I am set as soon as the Rot Doctor epoxy primer is dry, which should be soon. It says a day to a week, depending on rot depth and ventitlation. Since I have no rot and the ventilation is good, I should be able to spray them this week if I have a bit of free time after work, weekend at the latest.

I've documented the whole little project on pix, so I'll post them when complete.

Thanks for the input from all.

Dave

I've used Duplicoat bedliner in a can for the front baffles of my homebrew speakers. It looks 5 times better applied to MDF than just spraying the MDF with black spray paint. The MDF still sucks up quite a bit of the spray bedliner in a can, but not nearly as bad as spray paint.

The bedliner in a spray can works great for small projects. Larger projects, such as subwoofer enclosures, look much better if sprayed at a bedliner shop. They can be sprayed more heavy and uniform with the coating.

A guy in the Air Force I know while working at the AFB at the time, was a car/home subwoofer enclosure building guru. He built a car subwoofer enclosure that used used eight Resonant Engineering eight inch subwoofers, about the size of a steamer trunk, except 10-15% larger.

He had the enclosure sprayed at a bedliner shop, by a friend he knew that worked there. There is a bit different technique of applying the bedliner paint to an enclosure than a truck bed, and I guess the guy was really good at it. The bedliner finish on the subwoofer enclosure looked excellent and professional.

That sub box would put out around 145 dB with a 150 watt amp at 4 ohms. The guy is a guru...

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I tried a test piece on some plywood. I put 4 coats on and the wood grain still showed through. I don't see how it would work for a bedliner. Anyway, it makes a nice surface, so I decided to put several heavy coats of enamel on first and then use the bedliner on top.

Other things got in the way, so I've not started the enamel yet. Maybe next weekend.

Dave

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well, almost done and here is what happened. I was sitting at the table in the kitchen a couple of months ago and noticed something hanging down in front of the window. Turned out to be the motorboard of one of my Frazier Patios hanging by the wires. When I looked at it, the entire bottom had swollen and the whole thing was about to fall apart. I feared total loss, but just couldn't face it. Below is some of sawdust that remained as I started to disassemble it.

post-9494-138196656982_thumb.jpg

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As covered in the thread, I had a hard time trying to figure out what to use as a weatherproof and finish. The PAW had a can of Behr enamel in brown and I put about 4 or 5 brush coats on, and each took a week to dry. I sanded after each one. I'd decided to use the bed liner in cans, but was totally disappointed that it went on very thin and even a couple of coats didn't really cover as I wanted. Not sure what the deal is with that stuff. I am sure a bedliner shop puts in on thicker...I know my pickup has a MUCH thicker coat but you couldn't get this spray can stuff that thick with 20 coats. So I had the PAW select something. She did GOOD...as always. Rustoleum hammer finish black enamel. Best spray can I've ever used. Excellent pattern and sprayed evenly from any angle. Actually, that's the next pix...this is just ready to finish on both cabs.

post-9494-1381966571292_thumb.jpg

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I mentioned the improvement of adding the screen to the inside to keep varmints out. I also added some nice terminals. Not sure how these were originally shipped, but mine just had a pair of wires sticking out the vent. This is much better, methinks...

post-9494-1381966571526_thumb.jpg

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