whatever55 Posted May 26, 2012 Share Posted May 26, 2012 Any thoughts on how an RSW 15 sub with work with Jubs ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedcrankcammer Posted May 26, 2012 Share Posted May 26, 2012 Any thoughts on how an RSW 15 sub with work with Jubs ? For Music or for Movies? You'd want a pair at least and there are definetly better choices for music or movies. Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whatever55 Posted May 26, 2012 Author Share Posted May 26, 2012 Any thoughts on how an RSW 15 sub with work with Jubs ? For Music or for Movies? You'd want a pair at least and there are definetly better choices for music or movies. Roger Both music and movies. Just thought at the price of a used one it might work. What makes / models should I look at ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrtie Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 TubaHT or Danley DTS-10, no replacement for displacment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 TubaHT or Danley DTS-10, no replacement for displacment. Or Right... horn-loaded sub to match horn-loaded speaker... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LousyTourist Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 DTS-10 is a horn loaded sub. Goes to 11Hz according to the doc. http://wardswebllc.com/Danley_DTS10/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Don't know why my fingers typed "Or," when I meant to type "Right,"... My avatar is a Tuba HT, so i know it's horn-loaded. The DTS-10 is a tapped-horn, not exactly the same thing but a close relative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Don't know why my fingers typed "Or," when I meant to type "Right,"... My avatar is a Tuba HT, so i know it's horn-loaded. The DTS-10 is a tapped-horn, not exactly the same thing but a close relative. Or build your own Tapped horn for $300 that goes to 15 Hz. See this fellow canadian, quoted above prior build thread. Tapped horns go lower for a given amount of cubic feet of lumber, but not as efficient as a full fledged horn. The Tuba HT, according to Bill Fitzmaurice is an 11 foot long horn with a 25 Hz. cutoff. Mine is an 18 foot tapped horn, with a 16 Hz. cutoff. It's also a coffee table since it's profilte is 30x60x14" high Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Tapped horns go lower for a given amount of cubic feet of lumber, but not as efficient as a full fledged horn.Actually, you could take your Tuba HT and turn it into a tapped horn sub by relocating the driver(s)/baffles to a fortuitous place where the drivers are ported to both the mouth and the throat of the horn simultaneously, separated by the driver cone only. You would get about 2-3 dB more SPL output than standard Tuba HT by doing this, but you would also have more dynamics, like a precursor pulse when the sub is fed an impulsive signal. The reason why tapped horn subs are usually less efficient than traditional horns is that they are designed to be smaller than traditional horns. Their relative dimensions are picked to more easily fit into a typical HT environment. TANSTAAFL. "Hoffman's Iron Law" still holds, however, you get the benefits of horn loading to a much lower frequency by using a TH sub design, i.e., 15-20 dB lower FM and AM distortion relative to a direct radiating subwoofer cone area matching the TH' subs effective mouth area. One of the reasons why I place my TH subs behind my Jubs is because the effective extension and greater mouth size formed by the back of the Jub, the side wall, and the front face of the TH sub together forms a horn fold that looks up at the ceiling and thereby results in a lower actual cutoff frequency and increased sensitivity at or below its designed cutoff frequency. The TH subs' horn flare rate is designed for 19 Hz (21 feet of internal horn path length) -- but each TH sub actually goes lower...just like a Khorn goes lower than its 40 Hz designed cutoff frequency in the corner of a room. What is happening is that the TH drivers are actually "loaded" to a lower effective frequency by "loading the room". If I stiffen the walls in the corners of my room, the response should go down to ~14 Hz. However, drywall flex eats much of that up presently - although each TH sub actually loads that low. If you walk over and put your hand on the wall, the subs will shake the drywall violently down to that frequency. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 If you walk over and put your hand on the wall, the subs will shake the drywall violently down to that frequency I love violently shaking drywall [Y] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 (edited) If you walk over and put your hand on the wall, the subs will shake the drywall violently down to that frequencyI love violently shaking drywall I should mention that because the sub's mouths are located in the corners of the room, the subs's drivers do not have to be driven as hard (in fact, I EQ them down to flat response). The net result is reduced TH sub driver cone motion, which results in dramatically lower FM and AM distortion out of the subs than if they were placed out onto the floor of the room near the listening position. The above red trace is the TH-SPUDs response at the listening position (in the middle of the room) without EQ, and the dark green is the combined response of the EQed TH-SPUDs and the Jubs in front of them. If you walk toward the side walls during a heavy subwoofer bass test disk, you will feel disoriented by the total subwoofer output closer to the room's boundary--about 8-10 dB higher than the listening position in fact. I also bandpass the TH subs to 17-40 Hz (nominal) with a sharp low-pass L-R 48 dB/octave filter above 40 Hz. This also reduces FMD and AMD (modulation distortion) further. Chris Edited September 3, 2015 by Chris A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LousyTourist Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 I guess I'm a little surprized at the need for a sub with Jubilee's... I was under the impression that they went lower than my klipschorns, but I'll never know, my days of buying big bux speakers are decades in the past. I run a 'regular' sealed, servo controlled Velodyne 15" with my khorns. It fills in between 20 (or 23) and 32Hz or so which is where the khorns give up the ghost. I have had dreams of an Edgarhorn Seismic sub, but a refrigerator sized box has low WAF. The Tuba, if it can really be built for $500, sounds too good to be true. Unfortunately, my woodworking skills extend to licking envelopes, or cutting off fingers, so even that would be too much DIY for me. The Danley looks like they sell you the precut stuff for $1000 or so, all you need to supply is fasteners and away you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 I was under the impression that they went lower than my klipschornsBoth bass bins were designed for the same cutoff frequency. Look at PWK's/Roy Delgado's JAES design article on the Jub bass bin for reference. The Tuba, if it can really be built for $500, sounds too good to be true.My two TH-SPUDs were built with $410 (US) worth of materials, including Nutrik connectors and drivers.Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 I guess I'm a little surprized at the need for a sub with Jubilee's... I was under the impression that they went lower than my klipschorns, but I'll never know, my days of buying big bux speakers are decades in the past. Web page specs say 45 Hz versus 33 Hz for the Klipschorn. The Jub bass bin goes higher than the Klipschorn bass bin, useful to reach to the huge HF horn low end. The Tuba, if it can really be built for $500, sounds too good to be true. Unfortunately, my woodworking skills extend to licking envelopes, or cutting off fingers, so even that would be too much DIY for me. The Danley looks like they sell you the precut stuff for $1000 or so, all you need to supply is fasteners and away you go. The Tuba HT costs way less than $500 to build but you need to plan for EQ and amplification of course. The Danley is no longer available in kit form. Tapped horns (or the Cinema F20) are easier to build than the Tuba. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Web page specs say 45 Hz versus 33 Hz for the Klipschorn. The Jub bass bin goes higher than the Klipschorn bass bin, useful to reach to the huge HF horn low end.Both bass bins were designed for 40 Hz cutoff (i.e., reactance annulled at this frequency). The Jubilee bass bin doesn't require a corner like the Khorn does, however:http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/storage/3/423291/AES-Jubilee.pdf The two bass bin cutoff frequencies you cite are probably corner loaded for the Khorn (since it must have a corner) and anechoic (half-space) for the Jubilee. Here are the FR plots for both bins in the Hope chamber using the corner-loaded chamber door configuration: Note that the Jub bass bin FR was normalized to the Khorn bass bin output since it is a bit more efficient than the Khorn bass bin. I cross my HF drivers over at ~400 Hz - that HF extension of the Jubilee bass bin is really not taken advantage of after all is said and done. Most of the reason why is related to the two mouths of each bin beginning to experience comb filtering effects, a.k.a. "two-point diffraction" above ~500-600 Hz. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Doesn't that mean we could use a KHorn bass bin with a KPT-402? I always thought that wouldn't work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Richard Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 The Danley is no longer available in kit form. I was looking at the Danley website a few days ago and they have the kits for sale again. Contact james@danleysoundlabs.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 The Danley is no longer available in kit form. I was looking at the Danley website a few days ago and they have the kits for sale again. Contact james@danleysoundlabs.com. Well, that's a surprise! Great deal while it lasts! Edit: Web page says until Sept 30th 2011, which is when the last sale ended... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Doesn't that mean we could use a KHorn bass bin with a KPT-402? I always thought that wouldn't work?That's actually mythology. It will work--just. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Doesn't that mean we could use a KHorn bass bin with a KPT-402? I always thought that wouldn't work?That's actually mythology. It will work--just. Oh oh. KPT-402 sitting on top on my KHorn bass bins... Possible upgrade... Oh boy... Oh boy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.