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Need subwoofer input/suggestions


SuBXeRo

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For a 2400 watts sub, the typical 15 amp outlet can only put out 1800 watts. Unless you put a 20 amp circuit in you will never use all those watts without shutting down the house, lol.Hmm.

No one ever pushes their amps to their max for the most part. The head room is nice though and if you need to drop a 20amp circuit then by all means, do it! It will probably take two Rythmik subs to equal a Seaton Submersive.
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I'm no EE but I've read that you can pull more than 15 amps through a 15 amp breaker, depending on how long you pull it. In addition, some 120v wall outlets will actually measure 125v. Combint that with the capacitance built into the amps any you can have bursts of well over 1800 watts from a 15 amp circuit, especially in a music ot Ht application. Sine wave draw is completely different however.

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No one ever pushes their amps to their max for the most part. The head room is nice though and if you need to drop a 20amp circuit then by all means, do it! It will probably take two Rythmik subs to equal a Seaton Submersive.

I know what you are saying Vital. You know us Klipsch folks believe nothing excels like excess, lol. The JTR Cap, Seaton, SVS, Rythmik top subs all are great choice. Sometimes I think the deciding factor on which sub to get is cost, footprint and cosmetics since in a typical HT or room most of them will be more than enough.

Some people talk about hitting single digits, but there is very little content in most BD or DVD's below 15 Hz. For me, I like almost 2 of any decent subs to smooth room response over extension and max spl.

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http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=89 if this dayton build is true as far as measurements go, in comparison to most other subs, its seems like the cheapest and easiest build. Thoughts??????

I have that Dayton 18 in a sealed setup with an EP 4000 going at it. Works great for me. The driver costs $250 (when PE can keep it in stock) and building a MDF sealed 4.0 box isn't hard or expensive. To go wild, you could get 6 Dayton 18s (yeah, definitely over the 2 you want and definitely taking up some room), throw some amps at them, build the boxes, and still come in less than 3 large. I'm a huge fan of DIY for subs, if the situation allows it. Especially at your price point, you could build something that would be ridiculous.

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=45 - You could build two of these, if space allows, for about $2800 and blow away any competition.

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CECAA850:
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SuBXeRo:
Thoughts??????

I would have had
weeks ago.
+1 what an absolute monster subwoofer. two of these would rock your teeth out of you head.

You're right two of these do rock your teeth out of your head. Highly recommend.

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Im feeling more and more like a DIY project and then using some, if any saved funds for a projector setup! maybe, not sure but that dayton 18" looks like a fun contender and i can get a pre-designed and cut box from parts-express, i just have to the finish the boxes over.

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Im feeling more and more like a DIY project and then using some, if any saved funds for a projector setup! maybe, not sure but that dayton 18" looks like a fun contender and i can get a pre-designed and cut box from parts-express, i just have to the finish the boxes over.

Nix the parts express box. Have a look at THIS . Double baffle front, CNC'd with bracing. I built one of theit tapped horn kits and the fit was perfect.

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Im feeling more and more like a DIY project and then using some, if any saved funds for a projector setup! maybe, not sure but that dayton 18" looks like a fun contender and i can get a pre-designed and cut box from parts-express, i just have to the finish the boxes over.

Nix the parts express box. Have a look at THIS . Double baffle front, CNC'd with bracing. I built one of theit tapped horn kits and the fit was perfect.

the PE box looks the same???

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As a new homeowner, whether you use a downfiring sub or not, take this opportunity to stiffen (brace) your floor to increase and purify bass (unless the floor is a concrete slab, which should be fine as is, as long as there is a rug on it). An article in Stereo Review advocated this decades ago, and we did it in two houses, to good effect. If a floor is springy, it might act as a membrane absorber, and you don't want that. Don't worry, a good sub will still shiver the timbers, when you watch modern movies using the infernal bass machine, even with the floor bracing. We took the magazine's advice and merely put two beams in the crawl space, running diagonally across the floor joists, and under them. We used pressure treated wood, and concrete piers, and they are in super tight. In both houses I think we extended the bass response a bit, and reinforced it. In the first one, we had Klipschorns only, and they were FLAT at our 31.5 Hz test warble, instead of rolling off considerably above that (naturally, there were the usual peaks and dips above that). In the second house, we are using a sub, and it is pretty amazing. I don't know what the lowest bass measures, partly because we can't seem to get Room EQ Wizard to plot below 22.5 Hz, but it's fine there. Even the Khorns go to 22.5 Hz (when set on Large), in that room, but with considerable attenuation. Our sub is not as good as the one you will probably get ... it is specified down to 19 Khz only.

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The house we are moving into a post-tension concrete slab construction and is a single story home built in 1999. The room the theater stuff is going into has a laminate wood flooring in it so acoustic absorption and what not may come into play at some point. The goal for now is to actually close on the house haha. We ordered the appraisal yesterday and have to wait for it to be completed. I am hoping that it comes spot on because if the house values less, we may have to have another ***** session with the buyers to reduce the price. Their agent is an idiot so it hinders the whole process. I was planning on 4 of this 18" daytons. The sub is rated down to 19hz FS and the testing done via that one site depicts it having some lower end capabilities, which i hope it actually does. The testing they perform looks legitimate but i'll admit that i feel like i am look at ancient Egyptian here and there.

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the PE box looks the same???

And you have the privelege of payinf $30.00 more for it.

I've never built a parts express box but I've read where a couple forum members have built theit speaker boxes and weren't impressed. Maybe the sub boxes are better, I don't know. I do know the quality of the ones I've linked you to however.

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The boxes look identical down to the weight haha. I'm only considering a prefabbed box because for me to create braces and do nice cutouts, i just dont have the capabilities for it to come out nice enough for home use haha. Car subwoofer box is a different story though. I'd take a chance on the PE combo and its actually cheaper to buy them combo then order drivers and box separately plus shipping if needed. Im sure the GF will have a shit-fit with 4 of them but thats OK. But im still torn, i want a projector now. http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/jsp/Product.do?sku=V11H373120&BV_UseBVCookie=yes this looks sexy!

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The house we are moving into a post-tension concrete slab construction and is a single story home built in 1999. The room the theater stuff is going into has a laminate wood flooring in it so acoustic absorption and what not may come into play at some point.

If the laminate is sitting directly on the slab, or on some kind of solid underlayment which is directly on the slab, it should be fine. It's people who have floors that feel springy when they walk on them who have a problem. I'll never forget the brand new floor I walked on right after the '89 quake -- I kept thinking we were having aftershocks.

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