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EV HP640 on Klipschorn, now setting up the MINIDSP.


The Dude

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I like that.

So what your saying is instead of using a mid horn/compression driver. Use a mid horn, with a cone driver. Which p audio did you have in mind, and which horn are you referring to I can't find any info on the m200 you speak of. So I would still have a 3 way with a mid horn/cone driver crossed around the 350hz region, a horn/driver crossed over at 1000hz that would take me to 20hzish, if I want your route, this is something different I have not thought of.

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I guess my question wasn't asked right, I was trying to find how to design one of these midbass horns(maybe a conical horn), and I couldn't find the drivers any where for sale. I will email us speaker as there may be a suitable replacement. Thanks for the links I did get a chance to read some of the person's journey on these speakers

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Any kind of 5"~10" cone-driven horn crossed to a good HF driver around 1Khz would have worked better.

Ok now I am reading a little clearer now. There are so many coned drivers, that cover the frequency range. I know that might make a difference in a horn, how do I go about choosing the right one. I see Sensitivity all over the place, does this matter when choosing one. I have a feeling your going to tell me it all depends on the design I am trying to achieve.
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" I believe he said two 15 inchers for the bass horns (29Hz)."

Correct, two PD.158 per horn.

http://www.usspeaker.com/precsiondevices-pd158-1.htm

Unfortunately, I think the P-Audio WN series is only available to OEM at this time.

These drivers might work as well, check in Hornresp to see what they can do.

http://www.usspeaker.com/ciare%20ndk6-1.5-1.htm

http://www.usspeaker.com/faital%20pro%20m5n8-80-1.htm

http://www.usspeaker.com/eighteensound-6ND410-1.htm

http://www.usspeaker.com/B&C-6PEV13-1.htm

http://www.usspeaker.com/B&C-8PE21-1.htm

http://www.usspeaker.com/B&C-8MDN51-1.htm

"does this matter when choosing one"

The mass corner will be the most important spec.

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" I believe he said two 15 inchers for the bass horns (29Hz)."

Correct, two PD.158 per horn.

http://www.usspeaker.com/precsiondevices-pd158-1.htm

Unfortunately, I think the P-Audio WN series is only available to OEM at this time.

These drivers might work as well, check in Hornresp to see what they can do.

http://www.usspeaker.com/ciare%20ndk6-1.5-1.htm

http://www.usspeaker.com/faital%20pro%20m5n8-80-1.htm

http://www.usspeaker.com/eighteensound-6ND410-1.htm

http://www.usspeaker.com/B&C-6PEV13-1.htm

http://www.usspeaker.com/B&C-8PE21-1.htm

http://www.usspeaker.com/B&C-8MDN51-1.htm

"does this matter when choosing one"

The mass corner will be the most important spec.

OK so I am on the right track, I was looking at a bunch of those last night. Some are at a real reasonable price. Now I just need to research and read about this mass corner subject.

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"Once the cone driver for the mid band is chosen based on the mass corner roll off, I assume the throat size (this is a compression horn configuration?) can then be derived from the Keele equation for mid band efficiency. Am I on the right track?"

Correct.

Hornresp (David McBean) makes it easy to change variables and see the effects.

http://www.hornresp.net/

"mass corner"

Fhm

http://audioroundtable.com/misc/Keele_Horn_Design_AES_1250.pdf

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Yup definitely going to need a active crossover to get the HP 640s to work. Comparing to the the P audio PH4525 there is a lot of low mids that are missing, I will say these horns are overly bright compared to the P.Audio.. These are things I kind of expected, so hopefully will be able to pick up one of the minidsp's in the next week or so. Well down to the basement to play around some more.

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I guess bright may not be the right word, but its like it has more volume on the higher side. I guess one thing I did not think about which was stupid on my part, is that I was testing the p audio on my lascala at the time. I have just now moved the p audio horn to the Klipschorn, I will report back after some more listening.

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I must say I am not the brightest sometimes. As something just didn't seem right with the P Audio horn, I started to investigate. And what do you know the mid horn wasn't hooked up, one of the wires must have came off at sometime I didn't even realize it.

I still don't feel the P Audio horn is going to stack up to the EV, but I all so feel where one horn lacks the other makes up for. So I guess wouldn't it come down to which one needs less EQing to make it cover the frequency range, and how it sounds to my ears.

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Remember that the EV HP640 horn is CD. It will need to have the high end boost (as do all CD horns). Reserve any judgements about the horn until you have it EQ'd properly. I think you are going to be pleasantly surprised.

I was thinking of this statement today, does this mean I only need to eq it to get the higher frequencies, or do I need to eq it on the low side as well. The reason I ask is I now have it crossed over with a aa crossover network, but I am running a tweeter as well for now just to hear how it sounds. I do say I think it does sound pretty good.

I think I will stay on coarse and if I repair my HK amp I will then pick up a minidsp and mic. That should help me get to were I need, the only problem is then I have to go back to my separates which I probably need a better pre amp then what I was using as there was high floor noise, and slight hum I don't care for.

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You are boosting the high end. If you are using passive components, then you are decreasing the low end. The advantage of using active DSP, is that you can get time-alignment also.

As far as CD boost, look up "shelving filters"

Doing a little search makes a difference. One thing I cant wrap my head around how to mount this horn to a motorboard. Rather then front or rear mount it. I think rear mounting would look cleanest, abut I think of the edge of the wood were the mouth of the horn would mount, would cause sound issues, maybe not. I guess this is how the k400 mounts to the motorboard.

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Doing a little research CD horn(which is the ev horn I have) vs Bi radial(which is another one I am looking at jbl 2360 or 2365). From what Tom, and DJK have said along with Wikipedia that obviously CD horns need the 6 db boost on the high side or something along those lines. But from what I read Bi radials do not or at least it hasn't been stated in Wikipedia. So if this be true I would have better chance in running a bi radial for the fact I would not have to currently deal with the active stuff. The only reason I would want to run a passive network at this point, is I don't have a suitable pre amp to try, unless a cd player or Ipod is worthy enough to run into the minidsp. But if I went with a passive network I could all so continue to use my H.H. Scott 222. Now when I get the theater section done, then it will be all active but for know I just want to listen to music. Some of this is just me thinking out loud so I can try and figure out what I want to do. I figure staying on track and get the minidsp as I can use it for other things as well, plus I would only need to buy one more EV Hp640 or 2 if I ended up using them in the theater room. I think that sounds like the best plan. But I would still like to know if I am right about the cd horn vs Bi radial horns.

Thanks

I can figure out the horn to motor board mounting on my own I think.

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