WakeJunkie Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Thanks for the response, what is the diagonal size in 2.35:1 ratio. If I go with approx 120" 16:9 that would give me approx 114" 2.35:1 Then I would just mask the top and bottom lines correct. Correct. 120" in 16x9 is: 58.875"x104.625" 104.625" wide screen in 2.35:1 would be 113.75" diagonal. That screen would be 44.5" tall with masking. You would need the difference in 58.875 - 44.5 =14.375" total masking. Half above half below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 Not much to report, but I did have the chance to get it cleaned out enough for me to start some real work, plus I got all the insulation cut down to 15" strips to fit in between the framing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 I am probably going to spend the day today cleaning the walls real good, and getting my tools down there to start working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Getting all the crap out of the room sure makes it look bigger. Nice to have a clean slate to work with, the last basement i did was over 2200 Sq Ft and kinda shaped like a Z with a wet bar. Once you get started it goes quickly as long as you plan ahead. Whats the reason for cleaning the walls ? Arent you studding them out ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 Getting all the crap out of the room sure makes it look bigger. Just wait till it gets closed in. Nice to have a clean slate to work with, the last basement i did was over 2200 Sq Ft and kinda shaped like a Z with a wet bar. Thats a good size Once you get started it goes quickly as long as you plan ahead. Thats the plan Whats the reason for cleaning the walls ? Arent you studding them out ? Yea but there was a lot of moisture do to improper insulation practices, so there are some questionable spots that I don't want to find out if its mold when its to late. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Just spray it down with bleach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 Good idea, I will try that this afternoon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Well the bleach worked. All so figured out how to use Picasa so I will be updating my pictures there from now on. I will re post the link once in while so people can see my progress. This way I am not taking to much server space, plus its easier to post pictures. So keep your eye out for updates. https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/116970122301666569596/albums/5967661080622934353 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 (edited) Deleted Edited January 13, 2014 by duder1982 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 I have used bleach before with good results, i use a pump sprayer. Glad things worked out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 Ok folks, I am finishing up the framing this up coming week. I am trying to get a materials list together, for the electrical. Here's what I have so far. Approx. 10 can lights 8-10 outlets 3 20 amp outlets for up front for the 3 stereo amps. I will wait for the electrician to tell me how much power wire to get I figured approx 250' cl2 rated 12 awg speaker wire from monoprice, I figured that would be more then enough. I need some cl2 rated 2 conductor wire for 12 volt trigger I was thinking some 18 awg speaker wire from monoprice would work. Some interconnect wire for the 3 power amps up front.( I am currently working on a deal now) HDMI cable for the projector, I should see about running this through conduit as well. Some of those controllable light dimmers. Something like the Lutron ones. Anybody think of anything else when it comes to wiring, electrical, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted January 15, 2014 Moderators Share Posted January 15, 2014 What about internet, wireless or you may want to run a cable ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 What about internet, wireless or you may want to run a cable ? That's one thing I will be doing, where I plan on putting the equipment. Is were I will be moving my router, and hopefully server. Which I will be able to run and access cat5e to the rest of the house. At this point everything that can be hard wired will, the only thing that uses wifi are mainly tablets, and phones. So I should be good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 (edited) One thing I need to think about is a ir transmitter/receiver since my gear wont be in line of fire from the viewing position. Any recommendations. Just found this it might work great. http://www.amazon.com/IR-Repeater-System-Control-Theater/dp/B0016PM63W Edited January 15, 2014 by duder1982 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Have you thought about using something like iRule? http://www.iruleathome.com/irule-for-diy-enthusiasts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 I have looked at it before but not in-depth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Do you need ir to control or does your equipment support rs232 or lan control? If you don't need ir you can use Home Automation software from several companies to control from your phone. One that I used years ago was Girder which is very inexpensive and might do what you need to do. http://www.promixis.com/girder.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 (edited) Do you need ir to control or does your equipment support rs232 or lan control? If you don't need ir you can use Home Automation software from several companies to control from your phone. One that I used years ago was Girder which is very inexpensive and might do what you need to do. http://www.promixis.com/girder.php I like this idea, as I would really like to set up a tab to control everything. But I don't think it wouldn't help to at least have the wires ran for the IR repeater in the event I need it. Edited January 15, 2014 by duder1982 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 20, 2014 Author Share Posted January 20, 2014 Well framing went well just ran out of materials. Hopefully my bonus comes in next week so I can wrap up the framing, and move to the next step. I am thinking of blocking off the stairs and putting in a door to stop sound from traveling up the stairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 +1 on that door! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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