Budman Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 (edited) i have 3 sets of walnut heresys and one set of cornwall ramblin rose to re oil. pictures will come later first up a single from my 79 set and i sanded them with 3 different grits and put 2 coats of straight BLO, 0000 steal wool between coats. very nice second one i sanded the same and put 2 coats of watco danish oil made the black grain in the walnut pop much more than the blo and i know all about the rags that can catch fire so don't worry Edited May 6, 2014 by Budman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 BLO smells forever. I like the Watco oil. I used to use the natural finish for years on my boards. Now I use Howard's bees wax when I don't paint, that stuff is awesome. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minermark Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Watco has always been the the oil of choice among all of my Cab shop Buds for 30+ years. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share Posted May 4, 2014 BLO smells forever. I like the Watco oil. I used to use the natural finish for years on my boards. Now I use Howard's bees wax when I don't paint, that stuff is awesome. Dean, are you saying i could use the howards over top of the watco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 No. I was just saying that at one point in the past I switched from Watco Natural to Howard Feed-N-Wax for my builds on Red Oak. It's actually beeswax and orange oil, and the directions say it's a wood polish and conditioner. Says, "A penetrating feeder and polish for all furniture finishes and natural woods." I don't see why you couldn't use it on top of the oil, I'm just not sure why you would want to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 (edited) next up one of my 79 cornwalls in Ramblin Rose picture is sanded with 3 different grits. no oil yet Edited May 6, 2014 by Budman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 (edited) one coat of watco/2 coats to go Edited May 6, 2014 by Budman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TasDom Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Looking great Russ, love that wood grain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 don't look at it to long you might have to get a rubber room Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeker Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 Instant rubber room here. Very, very nice!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tk49 Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 I have to agree with Dean, boiled linseed oil will smell for some time but will leave a well sealed finish. I have found if you don't follow with a wax type finish it will eventually have a muted/dull look. Watco is a great product but will also get a flat look after a period, I like to follow it with Watco Natural Satin Wax. It seals and leave a nice luster that won't go flat, retreating every six months with the wax keeps the surface sealed and clean. You can also use Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac over the Watco instead of the Satin wax, steel wool it with 0000 and have a more protection than the wax and eliminate the 6 mo. treatment. Best is to try any of your finishes on left over stock to see if you like it. t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted May 7, 2014 Author Share Posted May 7, 2014 will give it a try, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
down_2_earth Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 linseen yellows pretty bad in the sun...so keep away from sunlight. Watco seems deeper penetrating. I like tungoil on darken woods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 What timing. My front doors are Alder and I live in the desert. I restored them a few years ago and it took an entire weekend to remove the old finish. I found this on the internet: The concept is that any finish that you use will not last in the searing heat of the desert. So instead of using a finish that is difficult to remove, use a finish that can easily be applied every few years. He is basically mixing up a very durable linseed oil mix that shines like it has a finish. ANd to re-apply, just lightly sand (it took me 15 minutes to sand 2 doors) and re-apply. Here is the recipe: Thoroughly sand with 220 grit. Wipe dry with damp cloth. Mix finish: 1 part linseed oil 1 part Naphtha ½ part Epifanes Apply using old cotton tee shirts If previously finished, put on light coats ad wipe off excess. After dries (may take a few days) lightly sand with 600 grit of steel wool to remove any surface bumps. Here is a link: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/desert-outdoor-finish/ The inside of my doors still look like the day that I first applied the finish. I imagine that this would last 5 to 10 years on a pair of speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 you might find this sight interesting. http://www.wwch.org/technique/finishes/oilfin.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tk49 Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Good article Moray, I agree with staying away from the oil/varnish finishes with steel wool, though the 0000 works well in between coats if you're using shellac. I like to use the Watco an 1200 wet/dry and creat a slurry as the final application before going to the Watco satin wax, but only if you want a glassy finish. Another great product is Sam Maloofs Oil and wax finish, I believe it a combination of tung oil, boiled linseed oil and shredded bees wax, but don't quote me, it leave a great natural finish. Down side is dry time, but it worth the wait. All of the finish talk is moot if you don't use proper sanding techniques before appling finish though. t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 you might find this sight interesting. http://www.wwch.org/technique/finishes/oilfin.htm Good article. His receipe is the same as the link that I posted. Thanks for posting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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