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Exactly the group I'm looking for.


Ben Baad

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I bought a pair of LaScalas a few months ago. The cabinets were in very rough shape and were Lacquered Birch. I sanded them down (be careful not to go through the veneer if you sand them), and filled gouges with wood filler. I then used Minwax Prestain and Minwax stain. I have NO wordworking skills. They look MUCH better than when I go them, but far from professional. I also had Bob Crites rebuild the crossovers and put Crites tweeters in them. I love them and spend more time listening to them than any of the rest of my speakers which include Klipshorns, Heresys and Cornwalls.

Good luck and there are some very experienced guys on the forum who have great woodworking skills. Seek them out before you start.

Edited by eth2
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Thanks eth2. I do not want to rush this project as I am hoping for a good result. I've learned from many mistakes that faster never is better lol. I've been reading through a bunch of threads gathering a lot of info. I wish I would of found a group like this for some of my other projects that turned into nightmares lol

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If you plan on doing a veneer job, you can use a bondo/minwax high performance filler since these are a polyester epoxy type filler. They won't take stains well at all, but would be strong than other fillers. I had a couple of chips in my LS like you show in the pic with the quarter. I just left it as is, although mine may have been a little smaller.

Any delamination, in my opinion, should be treated, and you could use an epoxy like that sold by 'Rot Doctor' or some W.E.S.T Sytem epoxy. They can penetrate and bond the layers together.

Here are a couple of the exploded views I made a few years ago. Please note that I missed a piece that goes across the back just under the top. I don't have the software installed anymore and the company was bought by MS and they stopped development on it.

Bruce

post-5045-0-33620000-1404006974_thumb.jp

post-5045-0-35420000-1404006986_thumb.jp

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My first post here a few months ago was for help on refinishing an older Klipsch. The denizens here were extremely helpful, you made a good choice going here first for advice.

Here is my refinish thread:

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/149241-epic-cf4-needs-overhaul/

In short, I would recommend sanding by hand with a sanding block, sand with light pressure. Use 120 grit to take off the stains, then 220 to get a finish to which you can apply polyurethane (by brush). I think Minwax will recommend two coats.

Be sure to lightly sand in between coats with the 220, and let it dry a couple days between applications. Let it dry for 30 days after the last poly application, then do your final wet sanding with 600, use your hand, no sanding block. Use mineral spirits for the wet sanding, available from Walmart. It's explained in one of the videos embedded in the thread. This technique will take all the tiny bubbles out, will not take off the poly you just applied, and leave you with a really nice looking finish.

The Minwax you choose looks fine, but you choose GLOSS. A SATIN finish will restore it a natural, factory finish without being shiny. I tell you that for information sake, you can choose whatever finish you think you might like.

The Poly WILL NOT hide any flaws. Whatever it looks like when sanded, that it what it will look like with the Poly. If you want a darker color, you will need to apply stain. The sanding will likely take out all the stains and look great, so you will have options.

Sorry for your loss, but the care you are putting into this refinish job will honor his memory, every time you listen to music on these magnificent speakers.

Edited by wvu80
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So much information =). You people are very cool. I will post pictures of them once I'm done. A lot to think about and now I'm more undecided on which way to go with these =)

Well our job is done, your completely not sure which way to go, just kidding the more ideas the better.

Can that stain be thinned ? Just thought if so it could be put on in steps so you can stop when you get the look your after without going all out right away ?

There going to look good. :emotion-21:

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I am testing the color now. I am not following direction. I am putting a small amount of stain on and wiping clean so that I can start light and get it to the desired color. I'm using the bottom board for my test. Also something I learned today that you guys may know, vegetable oil takes the wood stain off of skin in seconds. I learned this after spending a half hour of washing with soap =)

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I may have come in a little late to the La Scala party ;)

Love my La Scalas

With raw wood finish my personal routine is it use a foam product called white magic to clean and prepare the surface them wiping with clean microfiber cloths

If you prefer to sand then use 1200 wet and dry this won't cause damage, just scuff the surface

Once satisfied just oil with your preferred clear oil - the best is Tung oil

However one can use - Linseed oil, decking oil, Cutec in AU is a penetrating oil and leaves no oily residue after curing

Don't forget to post photos of the progress

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So I'm still in the testing stage. I've just applied a second coat of my stain and it's almost as dark as I'd like. I will do a third coat and hopefully it will be just right.attachicon.gif20140629_125526.jpg

remember that if you plan to top coat the stained birch that your choice of coating will also darken the color. Do a trial on the bottom or back so you will know exactly what color you will end up with. You can always make it darker but you cannot make it lighter easily. Best regards Moray James.

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