My new Klipschorns have arrived!

[seti]

A+

[Trentster5172]

My Klipschorns have a few hours on them so I just cranked them up!!!! Sealed the wall seals with 1/2" pipe tubing and let her rip! Wow! All I can say is WOW! The loudest and clearest speakers I've ever heard by far in the home! Don't want to give the XPA-1's back- lol. Oh well, the XPA-1L's will do exactly the same thing with these speakers. Looks like the maximum acoustical output of Klipschorns is 121db. If I did my math correctly they would be 120db with just 32 watts. So they will almost reach their maximum loudness in Class A if I understand that correctly on the XPA-1L's. BOOM!

Edited February 10, 2015 by Trentster5172

[angusruler]

also, your system really looks nice being all color coordinated. if I dare say, striking!

[Arkytype]

Sealed the wall seals with 1/2" pipe tubing and let her rip! 

 

Klipsch used to offer an add-on kit to seal the Klipschorn bass bin to the corner. It was very similar to this product from McMaster-Carr. 

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3500/=vv3id7

 

I bought part number 1120A861 which has a 1 3/4" rubber flap. They also make the same product with a 3" flap. For a pair of Klipschorns you'll need 10'-2" for the upper tail board and 36" for the offset bottom of the tail board. For the lower part, I overlapped the rubber seal so that the upper and lower flaps would work together at the baseboard area.

 

You don't have to order in the 10-25-50-100-foot lengths, just enter your custom footage in "other" and then "1" in the each box. So, for a pair of Klipschorns you'll need 13.16'. Just order 14 feet and you'll be good. Cutting the material to length can be frustrating. I found a jig saw with a fine metal cutting blade works great on the vinyl/metal part and a pair of scissors to cut the rubber seal. 

 

If you are content with using pipe insulation, go with the rubber type instead of the closed-cell; it'll conform better to the corner.

 

Lee

 

 

 

 

 

[Arkytype]

Congratulations on your new Klipschorns. While pipe insulation makes for a quick and dirty bass bin seal, you might want to think about a product that doesn't leave a nasty glue residue and allows the bass bin to get closer to the corner.

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3500/=vv459a

 

This is similar to the material Klipsch used to offer as a bass bin sealing kit. The product I use has a 1 3/4" rubber flap but they do offer a 3" (for really out-of-square corners?). For a pair of Klipschorns you will need just over 13 feet. That's enough for both the upper and lower offset tailboard sections. You don't have to order this stuff in the 10-25-50-100-foot lengths, just type in "14" in the "other" box and "1" in the "each" box.

 

Cutting the stuff can be a challenge. I used a jig saw with a fine-toothed metal cutting blade for the vinyl-covered metal core and then scissors for the rubber flap. For the top of the bottom tailboard section, I overlapped the bottom flap about 2" into the top section for a better baseboard seal. 

 

If you are content to use foam pipe insulation, I'd recommend the rubber type over the closed-cell foam; you'll get a better seal as the rubber conforms easier to out-of-plumb walls.

 

Lee

 

[Arkytype]

Congratulations on your new Klipschorns. While pipe insulation makes for a quick and dirty bass bin seal, you might want to think about a product that doesn't leave a nasty glue residue and allows the bass bin to get closer to the corner.

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3500/=vv459a

 

This is similar to the material Klipsch used to offer as a bass bin sealing kit. The product I use has a 1 3/4" rubber flap but they do offer a 3" (for really out-of-square corners?). For a pair of Klipschorns you will need just over 13 feet. That's enough for both the upper and lower offset tailboard sections. You don't have to order this stuff in the 10-25-50-100-foot lengths, just type in "14" in the "other" box and "1" in the "each" box.

 

Cutting the stuff can be a challenge. I used a jig saw with a fine-toothed metal cutting blade for the vinyl-covered metal core and then scissors for the rubber flap. For the top of the bottom tailboard section, I overlapped the bottom flap about 2" into the top section for a better baseboard seal. 

 

If you are content to use foam pipe insulation, I'd recommend the rubber type over the closed-cell foam; you'll get a better seal as the rubber conforms easier to out-of-plumb walls.

 

Lee

 

[Arkytype]

Congratulations on your new Klipschorns. While pipe insulation makes for a quick and dirty bass bin seal, you might want to think about a product that doesn't leave a nasty glue residue and allows the bass bin to get closer to the corner.

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3500/=vv459a

 

This is similar to the material Klipsch used to offer as a bass bin sealing kit. The product I use has a 1 3/4" rubber flap but they do offer a 3" (for really out-of-square corners?). For a pair of Klipschorns you will need just over 13 feet. That's enough for both the upper and lower offset tailboard sections. You don't have to order this stuff in the 10-25-50-100-foot lengths, just type in "14" in the "other" box and "1" in the "each" box.

 

Cutting the stuff can be a challenge. I used a jig saw with a fine-toothed metal cutting blade for the vinyl-covered metal core and then scissors for the rubber flap. For the top of the bottom tailboard section, I overlapped the bottom flap about 2" into the top section for a better baseboard seal. 

 

If you are content to use foam pipe insulation, I'd recommend the rubber type over the closed-cell foam; you'll get a better seal as the rubber conforms better to out-of-plumb walls.

 

Lee

 

[Arkytype]

 

OK, looks like I was diddled by the Dangling Dong of Destiny. After my first post, I got an error message and it went downhill from there.

 

Here's another pix of my tailboard seal showing the lower section.

 

Lee

[Trentster5172]

Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it! Unfortunately I've already attached the sticky pipe insulation to the backs. It sealed very nice to the wall and the bass got about 20% better. Love it! Had I known about what you did I would have done that. Oh well. I will say this- in ten years the worst these will likely see is the sticky substance on the back. I'm pretty particular about keeping my stuff pristine.

Edited February 12, 2015 by Trentster5172

[colterphoto1]

 

Way cool, congrats!

 

Are they sealed to the wall?  It's hard to tell but looks like the baseboard is preventing it.

 

modern khorns have notches cut out of the bass bins to allow for baseboards.

 

They've had notches since at least 1972. My problem is I have baseboard radiant heat which is much larger, so the grilles have had to go. 

[LarryC]

They've had notches since at least 1972. My problem is I have baseboard radiant heat which is much larger, so the grilles have had to go.

Mine have had them since they were built in 1962.  Pipe insulation closed the gaps.  However, I had to have the grille frames cut up a bit and the cloth rearranged.

Edited February 17, 2015 by LarryC

[derrickdj1]

I tried that Class A amp thing with several different amps, I thought I could hear better sound then , I was not sure.  I think a good A/B or some other SS amp will work just as well.  Who knows, my hearing may not be up to snuff, lol.

[Mallette]

Here's another pix of my tailboard seal showing the lower section

 

Can't quite figure that out.  What are the breaks between the upper and lower flaps for?  Looks like the whole thing would stick out from the wall quite a bit.

 

Dave

[LarryC]

I tried that Class A amp thing with several different amps, I thought I could hear better sound then , I was not sure.  I think a good A/B or some other SS amp will work just as well.  Who knows, my hearing may not be up to snuff, lol.

I've had Class A amp pairs since the late 1980s, have always thought they had an added element of smoothness and transparency which I assumed was the lack of notch distortion.  Yes, lots of heat so they sit out in the open, with an insulating shield between them and nearby furniture (see my avatar).  Like you, I'm sure I could enjoy different amps; I want to try a pair of VRDs at some point, though I know they will sound different.

Edited February 16, 2015 by LarryC

[Arkytype]

Dave wrote,Can't quite figure that out.  What are the breaks between the upper and lower flaps for?  Looks like the whole thing would stick out from the wall quite a bit. 

 

The tailboard has an offset to accommodate most any baseboard molding; so you'll need two lengths of either foam pipe insulation or the product I'm using for each side of the tailboard. I'll attach a few images of my final tweaking. The bottom piece extend upwards into the main tailboard seal and I've cut a notch about 3 1/2" above the floor so the bottom piece snugs up against the 3 1/2" high baseboard. I also ended up gluing the flaps together so that when the Klipschorn is shoved into the corner, there are no "air leaks". In hindsight, I'd probably buy the 3" wide flap.

 

[Arkytype]

This image shows the flaps of the top and bottom section joined together. Where'd that damn dog hair come from?!

[Arkytype]

Here's the Klipschorn in the corner showing how all the pieces work to form a good seal. 

[Trentster5172]

So far the class A is a pretty cool feature. At low volumes it doesn't seem to matter if it's in A/B or A - I can't hear a difference. I'm guessing there is no difference in sound because these amps are probably running class A for the first five or so watts anyways. At moderately loud volume there is more detail in the mids and highs locked down in A. Bass is the same, I believe. Hot little buggers though. Ran class A for about five hours listening to music today. They were hot to the touch like an oil heater. Watching a movie in A/B now. They are just warm to the touch.